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Jakeyb

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Everything posted by Jakeyb

  1. Jakeyb
    skirt tims back on , scuttle plastics plreaced along woth pollen filter ( what a w*nker those clips are ) all interior plastic blanks replaced ... starting to look like a car again ... hopefully catch tank will be here today or tomorrow .. might tackle the sunroof as its been gasket sealed shut .. its gonna be a bent mech i presume
  2. Jakeyb
    right well AGAIN i pulled the dash out n heater box... removed the flaps and covered then with the Aluminium foil tape both sides and a little more for extra secuirty... then put it all back together ..... WE HAVE HEATING ..... but the cheap horrid breather filter is allowing the cabin filter to suck in fumes so gotta get a catch tank n fit that tomorrow , get welding done this week ( would do it but welder in storage and no where to do it) ... then skirts fitted again .. coilovers ... whees re furbed if cant find some new ones.. and then i think im reay to bolt my turbo shizzle o
  3. Jakeyb
    strip that one , get him to check it for tolerance's .. if its in spec just re build that one .. dont buy a second hand lump its jsut someones lese problems
  4. Jakeyb
    i bought the foil tape to fix this for £1 .. lol cheap fix but hours worth of skinned knuckles!
  5. Jakeyb
    well really id do a dry test n a wet test... if valves and pistons havent clashed then it maybe hard to imagine major damage but low oil pressure means the cams could be damaged .. the valve guide could be damaged casuing it to stick and not open or close.. do you have access to a bore scope? u can buy a cheap version from somewhere that sells insulation normally aswell... for you too see the oil light im afraid it would indicate low oil pressure and thats never good for an engine .. so , dry test, wet test... then leak down test ( filling the cylinder full of pressurized air) and s
  6. Jakeyb
    ive just done this one lads, basically the catch on the inside mechanisim wears or becomes "looser" .. i took my lock mech out and handles... wd40'd everything up .greased it all and put it back in ... problem solved..
  7. Jakeyb
    its gotta come back out tomorrow or tuesday to sort the heater flaps out properly as least i got luke warm heaters but i want HEAT ... people say about using HVAC aluminium tape but i was going to cover the holes with sheet metal .. just either tack weld it on or self tapper it over the holes?
  8. Jakeyb
    turn over at normal speed? no flashing battery lights before it cut out? try un plugging and re plugging in the coil pack if its OBD2.. check fuses for fuel pump.. the hazards could be the alarm but could also be a bad or dirty connection .. shutting or slapping the door could of broken it and turned them off... failing these get he diag out n plug it in ... get a multi meter and get on your knees lol
  9. Jakeyb
    the flow of water looked interrupted and looked like it had got small bubbles of air .. i had also heard that the water pumps have plastic impellers so to squash the theory that it was cooling enough for a short while but the impeller had sheared off ... i removed it .. whilst it was off as i ddint know the millage i replaced it ... as a precaution and for future smooth running.... I fixed the problem anyways now .. it was the NEW thermostat that i had fitted only days ago ... i replaced it with a Genuine item at a cost of £26 and and problem solved... also changed the matrix but will
  10. Jakeyb
    the Aux pump runs on ignition mate to circulate water faster and get car up to running temp quicker, its used on after run to prevent heat soak on the matrix and stop damage after a heavy run . I fixed the problem today it was a BRAND new stat that had failed out of the box... bought a Genuine on for £26 and hey presto it works perfectly and sits just before 90 on the gauge and then first stage fans kick in at 93-4 * ( checked on snap on diagnostics) ... amazing really how in acurate the gauge reads.. half way between the 90 -100 was actually at one point 85* ... madness
  11. Jakeyb
    As above really ... i know they had foam on them .. but i read stories of people covering the flaps with aluminium HVAC tape ... so could i not jsut tacka metal plate over the holes and seal the flaps up completely ... then no more issues?
  12. Jakeyb
    its the flaps for sure mate , changed my matrix today and gotta pull dash back out n do it all again to re cover the flaps
  13. Jakeyb
    had this myself ... there was a coolant pipe that runs off the bottom of the coolant tank that runs right under number 6 lead i think it is .. a small small smallllll amount of water was sat on that hose and the lead was arking out onto it .. if u pop the bonnet with it running and listen near the coil pack can u hear an arking ? i would have a look tomorrow for the sake of 5 mins ... also try a bit of WD40 on the end of the leads on the coil pack end make sure its not a little bit of moisture.
  14. Jakeyb
    little update tried a new pump today for the sake of £20 n 45 mins work .. didnt fix it but helped me eliminate it and good for piece of mind .. plus got rid of the red nasty red painted bits ...
  15. Jakeyb
    long as shes working again thats all that matters!
  16. Jakeyb
    basically , the VR6 used to not get warm , changed the stat along with water pump n crack pipe , all seals .. bled as per ... the car gets to 90 degrees when stationary but continues to rise until around 100 on the gauge when the secondary setting on the fan module kicks in i believe its the fail safe to stop as much damage as possible when overheating is about to occur,... ive driven the car after its sat still and read 90 + on the gauge and it continued to get warmer n warmer to the point where it was sat at 100 degrees on the gauge ( i understand the gauge is inaccurate but its still
  17. Jakeyb
    rate the toyos myself . ran um on a few impreza's in the pst n pushed them HARD .. ill be sticking some on the VRT when its done
  18. Jakeyb
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Decompression-VW-VR6-turbo-compressor-Corrado-Golf-2-5-/260558751745?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3caa830801 plus of possible could someone direct me to the part number or link to the correct gasket to make the 8:5:1 compression ratio. cheers guys
  19. Jakeyb
    no stress , if you were closer id say id have a look but thats a long way to have a butchers! it could also be an imboliser issue if it starts but cuts out almost instantly .. plus if its rained id check the fuse box's
  20. Jakeyb
    the two things could be related to a wiring fault , have you plugged into diagnostics to see if it throws a code up? tried the basics of taking the negative off the battery for 10 mins and trying again .. checked all wiring n plugs? did you give it grief and then park it up or was it allowed to cool down properly and stuff?
  21. Jakeyb
    can u not download the freeware version or do u need the full ?
  22. Jakeyb
    as above really
  23. Jakeyb
    Good progress yesterday stripping n fixing .., on the drive home it got hot n the passenger caliper had siezed again .. After a sleep I'm think it prob got hot as I was driving with a seized on brake caliper n stressed the engine so hopefully ill free it off bleed it up n see how I get on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Jakeyb
    could it be a failed aux water pump as ive heard they run along side the main pump in cooling the engine when running n driving . mine was fine before but it doesn't over heat when sat and the fans kick in so it would make sense that the car isnt being cooled adequately enough as it doesn't ahoot all the way into the far side of the guage only too just before 100 degrees
  25. Jakeyb
    i wont do sniff test ill just pressurize the coolant system and im sure it will fill one or more of the pots up
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