RBPE
-
Content Count
548 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
25
Content Type
VR6OC News
Website Content
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Gallery
Store
Collections
Community Map
Posts posted by RBPE
-
-
RE: GT35R
Garrett have changed the bearings and carriers on the GT35R now and offer them as supercores for the turbine section to be purchased separately (more expensive now
).
My suppliers are looking to see if there's any old units lying about in the warehouses if anyone's dead set on these at this present time?
EDIT - Garrett now changing their catalogue
-
-
-
You've been getting excited about this for a while now!
I think the best bit has to be the Queeg episode;
-
Is it DSG this car?
-
If you are in a hurry then I'd suggest Rick at Unicorn or if you want to wait till around November/December then I can do you a custom map with a few R32 turbo's I'm doing then if you want?
-
p.s. why not to piddle about changing engines and spend it in other areas;
-
As we didn't get the mk4 12V in the UK then I don't know the differences between the models/ecu's but at a guess I would assume they are similar to the early 24v's with inlet only VVT. As such, you may be able to use a 24v early engine without major ecu mods but the later models have dual vvt.
In the US the dual VVT engine is the BDF and apart from the obvious differences with displacement etc, the ecu's and set up's of the engine are very similar to the R32 mk4's. So an early inlet only one might work with your ecu but you'd need to make some changes with a newer dual vvt one as a very rough guess from someone in a different market!
In short, just boost the engine you've got, all 12v/24v will provide massive power if your wallet is deep enough, save money on changing engine etc and use it on turbo/engine strengthening!
-
Is that including import duties/VAT?
-
What do you mean "better VR6's"?
I take it that it is a mk4 based 12V? Like the ones we didn't get here? If so, then it uses ME7.1. ecu so is better than older Motronic M based ones as it is more advanced, probably more tuning info on the net too.
As a vague reply.........ALL VR6's are worth boosting!
Personal taste is personal taste though!
-
It's about knock. You can run low boost or even moderate with stock compression but you'd benefit from a custom map done incrementally so you don't grenade the engine. Spacer plates to lower comp will give you better protection against knock then for a relatively low price, no real need to go less than 9.0:1 really even at moderate to high boost.
Main thing is...... and you do get sick of telling people this, if you want durability on an engine, do the basics at least! With your engine did you check the basics or just stick it together? Is it now running new rod bolts, bearings, gaskets or are they still at least 40k old? What you get sick of telling people is that there's no point upgrading an engine until the basics are done at least, I've had many ignore this and they get stroppy when boost is added and their engine goes bang! It gets annoying when people buy second hand engines, do nothing with them and then wonder why it explodes when they add boost or more boost!
If it was me then, I'd;
Strip engine down, check for cracks, check alignments and generally measure and check everything isn't warped or on it's way out due to use.
Replace ALL general parts like bearings, bolts, gaskets etc - oem if need be.
Possibly stretch to upgrades like springs if you're going higher rev limit etc depending on money (it's about replacing/refreshing as many parts as possible on a worn engine)
Upgrade critical stress points is a good idea for boosting, rod bolts being main one and head studs are a good idea if adding a spacer and of course all new chains and tensioners etc.
9.0:1 spacer, upgraded rod bolts, head studs, decent GT30/GT35 size turbo, upgraded clutch, 16psi - double your stock power, possibly £500 or so for a half decent refreshed engine if you can do it yourself?
You can go higher boost, 20+psi I suppose but more pressure equals more strain, all depends on what you can afford but I would do the basics and refresh as much as possible before upgrading where necessary. You could also just refresh everything with oem that you can afford and run a low boost map, no spacer and stock clutch for 300hp+.........how much power are you looking for and how much can you afford?
-
On 18/08/2016 at 7:47 AM, 96VR6NZ said:
Tunetechnic in Auckland did an awesome job. I sent them a spare ECU and they tuned it to our set up, the exhaust and air intake etc. They estimate an extra 15kw and 25Nm.
It goes well, the torque is there all the time and peak power gives a real kick at the top end. The auto box is in its element, its smoother and more predictable. It has transformed the car. I also reckon it's the best looking VR6 in NZ!
Sounds good, if any of you are interested in learning though there are quite a few free ways to go about it nowadays, main problems tend to be the actual flashing and logging, either due to "chipping" older ones or the more modern ones processors being a bit more fiddly with the developed free software. Tends to be tedious compared with the 1.8T/S4 cars it was developed for.
Best bet for 12V owners wanting to learn would be getting Tunerpro and using their VR6 .xdf's and using it with Winols demo and HxD editing software. Ecuconnections has a lot of info on the older Motonic stuff too, few VR6 threads in there and tells you how to do manual checksums etc with HxD. They both cover OBD1 and 2 I think.
-
On 8/21/2016 at 5:20 PM, G2t said:
Very helpful post and most interesting!! Thanks!! Would it be possible to expand into talking about transient response and characteristics, as well as power and reliability. I'm interested in finding out about good options for early spooling, quick responding turbos that would suit a 4mo bde engine. Not as concerned with ultimate numbers more real world performance and tractability with smooth consistent delivery throughout the Rev range. I'm reading as much as I can atmo.
The Garrett guides are good for understanding a lot of the basics, a lot of things are in there. Can go into it more if need be, all are free to post up pertinent info!
One thing I will say is that I see a lot of people often led by marketing hype when it comes to choosing a turbo and especially with regards to those advertised as billet, seen it happen many times whilst they do not truly know what they are getting into.
The material specification of these compressor wheels is better than older ones simply due to the modern advancements of alloys, with numerous companies that I’ve looked at in recent years experimenting both in terms of alloy/material mixture content and manufacturing processes and of course, slight variances in materials used.
Most would have heard about, for example, forged aftermarket pistons, usually 2618 or 4032 alloy. Each variance in these alloys/manufacturing techniques changes the physical properties in various ways, in the piston example, if I remember rightly, although the 2618 alloy had properties that meant it could sustain higher temperature loads (thermal resistence) at the expense of expansion properties (i.e. the 2618 takes longer to expand as it can take more heat stress – hence the commonly used “rattly forged pistons” phrase being bandied about), the 4032 performed better at the usual thermal loads/temp’s sustained in an engine life cycle over the same period of time. Of course test data can vary and I think that particular company was actually marketing a hybrid, plus, in terms of pistons at least, there has also been developments in other manufacturing areas such as coatings, so that the most resilient material can be used and the physical downsides (in this instance the rattly sound before the material has sufficiently expanded), can therefore be reduced!
So for those who might get swept into marketing hype, the term “billet compressor” may mean a lot less than you think! It is the material specifications that make the real difference!
Most though will use 2618 alloy which means that compared with older material, less can be used, which in turn, relatively speaking, means less inertial mass (lighter so spins up faster) and why you hear “better spool” being bandied about!
Researching things like material spec’s and phrases like thermal resistence or stress or twisting/shearing forces should help you understand the changes made there.
Does this get you better flow then? Not necessarily! Although you could argue that less material used in a compressor would give slightly more space in the confines of the housing, it was the changes in the blade design when Garrett went GTX that increased the flow.
This is due to what’s known as (Computational) Fluid Dynamics, or to be more precise, gas dynamics. How flow works on a body. The re-design of the blade as this more modern material was being used, with the “re-profiled blade” or “extended tip technology” marketing lingo, is actually where the higher flow comes from. CFD testing can be done with computer modelling and modern development techniques coming on in leaps and bounds here as computers have advanced.
As many of you may get sucked into such marketing hype then, the word billet alone could mean very little, make sure the price differences reflect that. If it is new material has there been any blade profile changes for better flow? Does the price acurately reflect that too?
All things to think about when either choosing or upgrading a turbo.
-
p.s. I do like Mumford too.... well played good Sir Knight!
-
So is this thread a face off then as everyone else is not playing??
Time to kick it back old skool, a bit of Madchester massive from when I was yoof! (And yes, you will be getting some Happy Hardcore later!);
-
Wish my garage had a car in it at the mo! In, fact, wish I had a garage!
In all honesty I do miss those things, been quite some years since I've been able to do a big conversion like that, I've been getting nostalgic sat in an old skool beasty!
Really want to build a mk1 Golf 24vt with Haldex! They've just done a timelapse video of a 20vt Corrado build too which looks cool!
On a positive note though, teaching someone how to tune their mk5 R32 turbo and DSG, a lot of money seems to be spent by owners on these things!
I'm thinking of going commercial again soon though, it's probably been nearly ten years now!
-
-
I've always preferred cryogenic freezing, plus frozen solid used to accept just a few cogs and shafts, business is business I guess! The box will tend to get some degree of heat treatment obviously over the years and to be honest both shot peening and cryo freezing is more of a surface type of hardness treatment with little effect on deeper modification from what I've looked into.
In terms of simple physics and math; the physical properties are likely to all be the same for most similar gearboxes, as from what I've read the material between the VAG parts (age dependent I suppose) is the same, therefore same physical strength/torque levels. Where the physical properties would differ is in the design of the parts which also comes into play with age related parts; if you imagine 4 teeth on 2 cogs meshing together, the new ones with correct fitting teeth are likely to have far less stress, shearing forces etc, than those with teeth that are worn down - there is simply more gaps/incorrect fitment/alignment that will ultimately cause more physical load/stress due to that very reason! "Tolerance" as it is known in engine building!
In all honesty, it's these basics that are often overlooked which is exactly how stress, shearing etc forces work! So with either one you're toughening to a degree but these areas could be under far more strain than oem due to use/wearing/tolerances!
If you're serious about these things then the best option if there are enough of you is this;
Material specification counts for a lot as the base physical properties start with that, quite technical in which you use, lot's of options etc but.....
If you use a UK company it tends to be about three times as expensive in developing custom cast or forged parts on the whole than one from China say! Done a lot of research on this so know. Main cost is the IP rights for the mold, the base pattern for a part and yes, if you do your homework there are companies over there that don't just market someone else's and will have you pay for said rights. Once that's done the material is taken into account, obviously cost per unit there based on that, then the manufacture and delivery of said parts!
There are some holes in the market and to be honest on things like this most just buy another but if you're spending a fair whack on a build then should we get a discussion going?
My 2p!
-
Up what? A tree?
Tuned up? 12V model? Probably Stealth best bet!
-
Ahh! Was looking at the trailer the other day and loads of thumb up and teeny boppers were saying "heathens!" - wondered wtf they were on about! Now I know!
Continuing on - I have this on at the mo, you'll have heard it on adverts and that, was stuck in my head so had to hunt it down!
Any of you ever entered the word magic in-between you and tube at all?
-
p.s. Ultimately too, these ecu's will read directly from the 02's in an emergency with the primary 02's being paramount, you can manipulate everything else to varying degree's after that.
-
-
I love making bass tunes!
-
I think, (off the top of my head), that someone has done it with a 24v crank that way around which would be the same as the 12v, usually it's other way around, not sure on comp without doing the math.
You're thinking about using a V6 4mo map on a mk5 R32 for FI! Let me know the ins and outs of the ecu so you don't end spending a fortune on that side.
).
Really want to build a mk1 Golf 24vt with Haldex! They've just done a timelapse video of a 20vt Corrado build too which looks cool!
Should I rebuild or leave bottom end alone?
in Engine Tuning
Posted
If you're doing bottom end, or, for that matter spending a lot on the head, get it done properly, always pointless just adding parts without checking the simple things like alignments or cracks - seen many a destroyed engine not doing these things, I'd say wear/tolerances is probably the biggest killer of engines on an old engine - if you spend a lot and not do the basics it's just wasting money!
The cylinders might be fine, just new rings to replace worn but with the VR offsets (crank/rod alignment), how do you know that this hasn't worn these areas and/or overly stressed parts in a critical stress area like the rod bolts?
Do it once, do it right is my philosophy!