c00k

Looks clean buddy, 
any future plans for it? 

Got abit slow on updates, 
Did most of this few weeks ago. 
High flow cat fitted, and a Bosch lamba sensor fitted at same time, rather than a cheap copy as that's what came fitted to car. Cheap lambas can make an engine run like shit. 

 
Re-aligned the throttle body, and re-set the the lamba learned values and lamba ageing in vag-com.
Changed the head unit, so I can use my SDHC cards. May change the speakers in it soon. 
Havent really done much else apart from driving it. 
No oil leaks, no water leaks on replacement engine. It's running spot on at the moment. 
I've done a few WOT runs while data logging and engine seem to be all good. 

Got abit slow on updates, 
Did most of this few weeks ago. 
High flow cat fitted, and a Bosch lamba sensor fitted at same time, rather than a cheap copy as that's what came fitted to car. Cheap lambas can make an engine run like shit. 

 
Re-aligned the throttle body, and re-set the the lamba learned values and lamba ageing in vag-com.
Changed the head unit, so I can use my SDHC cards. May change the speakers in it soon. 
Havent really done much else apart from driving it. 
No oil leaks, no water leaks on replacement engine. It's running spot on at the moment. 
I've done a few WOT runs while data logging and engine seem to be all good. 

I'd love a mk1 with an R32 in it! 

I'd love a mk1 with an R32 in it! 

Hi there guys,
another Dave here
very long time lurker here i signed up in 2009 when i bought my vr6 mulberry highline but never got round to posting
Some of you  may have seen my car at vwnw tatton park on the concours mk3 stand
I will have the car back on the road next week and cant wait to hear the roar of the vr engine again
I dont have any pics to hand but I promise i will post some pics next week after ive given it a clean as its a bit dusty due to sitting around for a year
 
 

There high tensile bolts, 
i've replaced almost every bolt in my engine bay with them, and loads on the rest of the car. 
except internal nuts and bolts. As some of these need to be stretch bolts, or specialised nuts and bolts. 
 
If I remember right the strut bolts are M12. 
 
A little tip paint the head on the black ones. As you may find the head rust, as there only chemically blacken. Not zinc coated like original bolts. And used copper grease on the thread to stop that from rusting. 
You can get them in different strength bolts as well. 
4.8 high tensile 
8.8 high tensile 
12.9 high tensile 
the higher the number the stronger the bolt. 
 
Also go for stainless nuts, marine grade A2 will be the best, as alsmot guarantee not to rust. But any stainless nut will be an upgrade and rust less. 
 
Most bolts in engine bay are:
M6 
M8
M10
(Internal engine bolts, some gearbox bolts, driveshaft bolts, are all specialist and should only be replaced with originals or upgraded ARP bolts.
Everything else can be changed, engine mount bolts, engine accessories, manifolds, all the little mounts and clip holders, battery tray, etc)  
 
Suspension, subframe, rear axel:
M12
M14 
(I'd only recommend 12.9 high tensile for suspension and subframe, I use 12.9 on everything)
 
Exhaught system: 
M8
(also use 12.9, can also replace the exhaught studs with high tensile) 
 
they can be different lengths, but just measure the bolts length your replacing, from underneath the head to the bottom of the thread.  
You can buy then on eBay, and most local fasteners and bolt places. 

How did it run dude? 

There high tensile bolts, 
i've replaced almost every bolt in my engine bay with them, and loads on the rest of the car. 
except internal nuts and bolts. As some of these need to be stretch bolts, or specialised nuts and bolts. 
 
If I remember right the strut bolts are M12. 
 
A little tip paint the head on the black ones. As you may find the head rust, as there only chemically blacken. Not zinc coated like original bolts. And used copper grease on the thread to stop that from rusting. 
You can get them in different strength bolts as well. 
4.8 high tensile 
8.8 high tensile 
12.9 high tensile 
the higher the number the stronger the bolt. 
 
Also go for stainless nuts, marine grade A2 will be the best, as alsmot guarantee not to rust. But any stainless nut will be an upgrade and rust less. 
 
Most bolts in engine bay are:
M6 
M8
M10
(Internal engine bolts, some gearbox bolts, driveshaft bolts, are all specialist and should only be replaced with originals or upgraded ARP bolts.
Everything else can be changed, engine mount bolts, engine accessories, manifolds, all the little mounts and clip holders, battery tray, etc)  
 
Suspension, subframe, rear axel:
M12
M14 
(I'd only recommend 12.9 high tensile for suspension and subframe, I use 12.9 on everything)
 
Exhaught system: 
M8
(also use 12.9, can also replace the exhaught studs with high tensile) 
 
they can be different lengths, but just measure the bolts length your replacing, from underneath the head to the bottom of the thread.  
You can buy then on eBay, and most local fasteners and bolt places. 

Guys I know we get discount from tps but I got a cracking deals on the bolts I've just purchased! I called TPS for the 2x strut bolts and nuts (strut to hub) for my corrado (golfs are the same) .. Also for the bolt and nut that goes through the rear leg bushe and into the chassis leg..
I ended up getting a price for roughly £3.55 per bolt and £2.40 per nut!!
Bearing in mind I needed 6 of each!!
£36 for 6 nuts and bolts!!
I looked online and then remembered there was a bolts and fasteners place opposite TPS Newcastle, gave them a call and he said to pop through with the original bolts and he would match them up or better them..
Ended up coming away with these beauties and guess what!! Total cost for everything £3!!!
They are better quality and stronger bolts with nylon nuts!! Just a little tip for anyone who may have snapped a few here and there and don't want to pay daft prices!! This place is amazing! Anyone wants the info or address let me know and I will post the address and phone number...

There high tensile bolts, 
i've replaced almost every bolt in my engine bay with them, and loads on the rest of the car. 
except internal nuts and bolts. As some of these need to be stretch bolts, or specialised nuts and bolts. 
 
If I remember right the strut bolts are M12. 
 
A little tip paint the head on the black ones. As you may find the head rust, as there only chemically blacken. Not zinc coated like original bolts. And used copper grease on the thread to stop that from rusting. 
You can get them in different strength bolts as well. 
4.8 high tensile 
8.8 high tensile 
12.9 high tensile 
the higher the number the stronger the bolt. 
 
Also go for stainless nuts, marine grade A2 will be the best, as alsmot guarantee not to rust. But any stainless nut will be an upgrade and rust less. 
 
Most bolts in engine bay are:
M6 
M8
M10
(Internal engine bolts, some gearbox bolts, driveshaft bolts, are all specialist and should only be replaced with originals or upgraded ARP bolts.
Everything else can be changed, engine mount bolts, engine accessories, manifolds, all the little mounts and clip holders, battery tray, etc)  
 
Suspension, subframe, rear axel:
M12
M14 
(I'd only recommend 12.9 high tensile for suspension and subframe, I use 12.9 on everything)
 
Exhaught system: 
M8
(also use 12.9, can also replace the exhaught studs with high tensile) 
 
they can be different lengths, but just measure the bolts length your replacing, from underneath the head to the bottom of the thread.  
You can buy then on eBay, and most local fasteners and bolt places. 

So! tomorrow is the day ! hopefully will have it up and running with the charger! wish me luck haha

Got some more work done on the van all the intercooler pipes were welded up then powder coated in wrinkle black and painted the intercooler at work.    Back on.  Then refitted all the pipes looks a lot better in black and with out the hose connectors. Before.  After. also managed to make my screamer pipe turned out pretty good. Got the front end built back up.  So even tho it wasn't mapped and it only had the down pipe on we decided to try and start it more so to make sure the engines turned over properly and we had spark and fuel. All I can say it defently needs mapping.still got a water lines to do on the turbo, finish the exhaust and of course mapping but it's not far off now.

Basic guide to explain why your car is going "bat s^&t crazy"!
Your ecu, regardless of car, uses a lot of sensory inputs to make it work, how it does this is a part of a recalibration/remapping thread I am doing and too complex for here. Suffice to say, if these sensory inputs are not correct or make no sense to the ecu, it doesn't like it and throws a wobbly! Due to the fact that many sensors can be used for the ecu to check in one area - i.e. it looks at 2 maps with engine rpm v's coolant temp on one and engine rpm v's voltage on the other, it is essentially looking at 3 sensors here. 
The crank sensor tells it the rpm, the engine coolant sensor the temp and the voltage used for things like sensor readings as well as ignition/injection latency etc...
Point being, as a number of sensors are used/intermixed within the ecu to work something out; then; a) what is happening may not be truly indicative of what is causing the fault, and  one sensory input fault can cause a number of fault codes so try and find the right one first to save £'s!
Almost all the time it is either a problem with a sensor or something is causing a sensor to read some weird readings it doesn't like! The math doesn't add up if you will!
So these are a list of common sensors of the Motronic -  quick post up off top of my head and model/ecu variances etc; point out any I've missed;
MAF/HFM Sensor
02/Lambda sensors
Coolant temp sensor
Crank and cam position sensors
Spark plug damage/coils/coil packs
Throttle position sensor/pedal box sensors - ME7
Intake air temp sensor - IAT
Manifold absolute pressure sensor - MAP
Idle stabilization valve - ISV
So - once you understand why it's going mental it's time to find the cause! Two things I would start with;
Leaks of some kind can cause air or air related problems and the ecu's trying to work out air/fuel calcs so air that shouldn't be there it'll have a strop! It's free to check this, either visually by looking at it or perhaps the old hose in water trick looking for bubbles? First thing I would recommend really as it's free n easy like yours truly! 
Secondly, the OBD - On Board Diagnostics that auto electricians plug their laptops into, enabled garages to check problems quickly - VAG-COM/VCDS is what you want to look for. What this does is basically tell you what's having problems and as said, it can and usually is one bit/sensor that starts a chain reaction causing multiple problems cropping up on the scan! There are hundreds of maps all interconnected in some way so it's about trying to use logic - if you've recently played with one area then it could likely be causing a problem in another area if you're getting multiple codes.
So check leaks and spend the £20 or so to get a read of the codes if necessary, to save you a lot of time and effort first of all!
That's a basic overview of what essentially is happening then, find the cause of the sensor play up, not necessarily the sensor itself!
Quick list of common probs;
Coils/coil packs - personally seen some bad pro maps destroying coils if you've had it happen - lot's of reasons for problems here - fundamentally important for good spark and everything thereafter! So anything from a bent spark plug due to dropping through to a damaged coil or sensor in the dizzy!
MAF - intake systems collapsing, sensor not working, bad reads due to bends/turbulent flow - less of a problem on mk4+ due to glass/ceramic substrate evolution of the ME7 HFM's.over wire early ones.
Temp sensor - start/after-start & hot start areas of injection on mk4's for example , car can play up depending on ecu adaptive aspects - "learning" and  temp depending, so if playing up then gets better or vice versa - perhaps here or below?
02/Lambda - common problems here too - coking over giving bad readings due to age, brittle at times, can be a prob on later ME7 torque systems due to above temp dep'd aspects and adaptve learning of the ecu - mono lambda problems for fi more technical but similar in terms of adaption routines.
Hope that gives you a basic idea of what is going then which covers most problems basics!
 
Little Bosch diagram on the ME7 system to see the various sensors and, unfortunately, why a bit of trial and error may be needed as they are all connected!
 
 

 
EDIT: I did this quick note info based on the Bosch system strategy floating about on the web, gives an overview of catalytic monitoring in the ecu and so on so kind of tells you what your computer is doing in monitoring and why it throws codes;
 
https://app.box.com/s/7fvt652zoqapzmfq7fv0rfufs96yv25q
 
12v info:
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_127.PDF
 
VR6 repair manual;
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/VW/Corrado/VW_Corrado_SLC_AAA_Repair_Manual.pdf
 
V5/FSI:
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_195.pdf
 
http://sandbox.enjoybeing.net/veedub/vw_vr6_self_study.pdf

sorted,,thanks cOOk....

Ok so firstly I apologize for the lengthy post! But I've been putting this off for a fair while so It's going to be a big chunk in one hit and then hopefully keep it up to date! 
So 5 years ago I had my first VR6, a White Golf Mk3 that I owned for nearly a year and showed with the VR6oc in 2011

Then the next car I had was a Nugget yellow Corrado 16v KR, I literally adored it, however I always wished it had the heart of the Golf...

Fast forward to 2013 and I found myself owning another Mk3 that I converted to a VR from an 8v Gti, again I loved it but when the Head gasket let go i let it go, the bodywork wasn't fantastic and there were a few rot issues so this kind of forced my hand...

I ended up then owning a Bora that I bagged on RH splits and kept for nearly 2 years, then owning a Mk2 Jetta with the intention of a VR swap, however it simply wasn't a good enough base for what I really wanted and the cost would have been a bit much, besides, at this point, I'd found what I always wanted.


So with the Bora put back to standard and sold and the Jetta sold I paid off a load of debts and ended up buying in October 2015 what deep down I had always wanted... a Corrado Vr6. 
The history of the car was pretty interesting, it has been owned by a chap who runs a local to me VW parts supplier called veedubmachine, his son then took over ownership, prior to them owning it was still in Cornwall owned by a guy since 2000 where he bought it from VW, I dont't have any history before this but the plate suggests the car came from ireland, and any info I've found on registration leads to 96' which is pretty odd. 
It's a late Corrado VR with the plastic rocker cover but with OBD1 ABS pump, late heater controls, and genuine 2.9 ABV. On pick up the car had 128k and had been sitting for about 6 months under a tree due to needing some work for MOT. The car ran and drove lovely, the main issues being rot that needed addressing. With a deal made at £1700 including standard speedlines, standard tail lights, and a spare bootlid as the current one was rotten I contacted my friend with a recovery truck and collected the car as soon as I could

The rot was on the Filler flap area, the rear arch, the drivers door, the drivers sill, and the bootlid. This picture shows the worst of the rot which was around the filler.

So with that work needing doing for an MOT the car went the whole 5 miles from collecting straight to the bodyshop! Haha!

A good while later I got the car home and on my driveway, had the drivers side repainted, the rot repaired, and had a few extra bits done while the car was there. The new bootlid was painted and fitted with the rear wiper being deleted and the hole smoothed, I had the rear badges deleted and smoothed over, and I had the drivers side rub strip removed (I did want both but I removed the n/s myself)



Got the car through MOT and then started to crack on with the inevitable jobs that needed doing... first one being the lovely wet floor that greeted me after a rainy night! Did the heater matrix, cleaned the scuttle tray and replaced the foliage seal, removed the headlining which sagged and replaced that along with the sunroof seal (77 quid! Thanks Volkswagen!), removed the carpet to de water the floor and binned the factory soundproofing and replaced, and cleaned up the interior prior to re-fit. 
These jobs were actually doing in a few hits rather than in one go over the space of a few weeks but it's much easier to cover it this way!






I did at roughly the same sort of time start to tidy a few things up exterior wise to make the car my own, I spent quite a lot of time on the remaining original paint to bring it up to standard, satin blacked the rear plate plinth, fitted red side repeaters to replace the smoked, full red tinted the standard rear lights (spent 2 days alone just on them!) I got included in the car purchase as frankly I detested the crystal lights :/ and fitted a set of JOM coilovers, not the best but a temporary measure until I can get the funds together for something like a set of H+R's





At this point I was starting to feel much happier with the car and it felt much more like my own, I did also have my number plate fitted in between all of this which has moved from car to car over the past few years, so G3 OCD brands the Corrado proudly
I did do a lot of maintenance in between all of this too, including rocker gasket, fresh paint on the inlet manifold, new red Beru leads, new NGK platinum plugs, new oil, new coolant, new expansion tank, new thermostat, new thermo housing, new sensors for the thermo housing, new rad switch and probably a ton of other stuff in between I've forgotten about! Needless to say I was doing my best to look after it on the inside aswell as out!
The next job... well Ultimate Dubs 2016 was approaching fast, and after chatting with Mike on here If I could set a decent set of shoes on the car and the drop right the car could grace the VR6OC stand for the show, something I was seriously keen for bearing in mind I'd shown with the VR6OC 5 years previous! 
So I managed to find a set of wheels... Rays Volk CV pro 3 piece splits, I've only indluded a buily up picture at the end as frankl;y this is long winded enough! But in the few weeks prior to UD they went from untouched 25 year old wheels, to fully rebuilt, polished lip, painted centres, new tuner bolts, new bolts and buts for assembly, the whole 9 yards, all the work carried out on my own and the wheels went on on the friday before Ultimate Dubs combined with a drop of the JOM coilovers and a chassis notch... cutting it close is an understatement!
So with the wheels on, the drop done, the car cleaned up, and a satin black VR6OC show plate sorted UD 2016 actually happened!






The car got a great reception, however its safe to say the trip wasn't without event! The car developed serious running issues on the way up which lasted a good week until it was diagnosed to be the Coilpack, I had also replaced the MAF at this point!One of the tyres was leaking horrendously which resulted in me resealing a wheel a day after the show! And the bonnet and rear bumper I had in the bodyshop werent ready in time so I had my old bonnet and rear bumper both of which were damaged on the car while it was on show...
Got the new coilpack fitted...

Got the new Kode half dished suede red stitch wheel I bought at the show fitted up

And got the old bonnet and rear bumper binned off as I collected the new repainted parts a few days later

Since then I've been enjoyed the car and doing a few jobs in between, had to go over the coolant system again and found the waterpump had died so I had it replaced, and did a full coolant flush (again) around the same time.

I also had the dash out for a second time after discovering the heater box flaps were blowing cold thanks to the good old foam disintegrating! I've replaced all the foam, tidied the wiring behind the dash, cleaned up everything, and sorted out the heater cables a bit as they were sticking...


This brings me up to date, no doubt theres some stuff I've missed but here some pictures of the car from lately now everything seems to be going well, still plenty I need to do, and want to do with the car but its all in the works


 
Oh wait... i forgot the latest update...
Well the car is fairly low to say the least... the engines raised but none the less the sump is just about at the same level as the subframe, bearing in mind the subframe has been hitting the floor quite a bit! 
Was driving home from my partners place about an hour from mine, about 2 minutes into the trip I hit a cats eyes completely wrong and whacked the sump HARD, The oil light went bezerk and buzzed and by the time I got to a safe spot it was too late... the car had lost power then cut out completely, so I'm pretty certain I've seized the engine....
Two recovery trucks and about 2 hours and the car was loaded up and recovered home.

So at this point in time the car is needing a new engine, which I may well have found, the wheels are possibly sold to pay for it (was selling them anyway to go a another way wheels wise), and I'm walking to work haha!
Fingers crossed they'll be some updates soon on new engine to get it back on the road!
Peace :0
Geo.

I know the feeling of being stabbed by them. 
 
Also don't cut braided hoses with a saw buddy, all the end's fray like mad. Even if you do tape it up. 
Use a decent pair of heavy duty snips. Or a braided hose cutter. 
Thats how I cut mine anyway, I learnt not to uses a saw after making my first one. 
 

Ok change in direction! Going N/A keeping it simple for track use.

Nice man, braided hoses are much better  
 
There not to hard to make your self, with slight different fittings. 
You could of made them with a vice, AN fittings, and a spanner. 
 
It's not to hard, I've made loads for my air ride, external oil cooler, power steering. 

Gutted for you mate, 
like you said it not common for a camshalf to snap in the middle like that. 
I wouldn't be impressed either, 
hopefully they will replace shaft for free. 

Went to my local pirtek branch to make up my oil lines as didn't have correct tools here to do the job and wanted peace of mind 🏻



They have done a great job and only £38 - I supplied the lines and they supplied fittings.

BOOOOOOOST!!!  

Nice one cook, very helpful.
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