Lukey.
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Everything posted by Lukey.
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The software activates every time you plug in the ross tech cable, with a generic cable it wont activate the software so you wont be able to do very much. They did this to stop people cracking their software by making them have to buy the specific hardware to make the software work. High end media studio software packs for computers have worked like this for a long time
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you should have the CDA 85-150 for the VR6 engine, so should have an 85mm size inlet/outlet but does need reducing down to the maf which i think is 3" which is about 76mm, i managed to stretch some samco the right size for the MAF onto the BMCs neck, try disconnecting your battery overnight so the ECU forgets the fuel trims etc, then when you re connect it start and let it idle for 5 mins or so, it will re learn with new information
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This fault code keeps popping up on VAGCOM 00553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) 31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent Think it means i need a new MAF sensor, which seem to be rare as rocking horse sh*t unless you want to pay a trillion quid from VW direct, even searching the bosch part number and even the corresponding ford galaxy part number dont turn up much luck. As I have found out, theres 2 types of MAF for the VR6, hot wire and hot film, the hot wire one seems a standard VW car MAF, they all use it, you can buy one for a 2.0 mk4 for half the price of the VR6 one and its t
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I got my HEL braided hoses on when the brake fluid got changed, but it turned out both rear callipers needed replacing too, so had to have 2 new callipers while i was on, the list of original parts on this car gets lower by the day!!! Along with my balance!!!! :-# Looking at my wheels even after a good clean they are in pretty corroded and bad shape, and the whole centres are absolutely buggered, beyond repair, the dishes are either bent or dented, the cantre bolts are peeling too and the centre caps are delaminating, so they are being replaced with new ones, dishes, centre bolts and centre ca
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Ive had the car back for a couple of weeks now, and had a ride to croft circuit on the weekend and she behaved impeccably. The interior was a bit grubby after being out of the car for so long so i got some chemical guys fabric clean and did the whole inside of the car while the seats were out aswell as the seats themselves, they came up like new. The plastics were treated to some carlack68 plastic protector, which doesnt leave a nasty oily film like other back to black type products. I fitted my new head unit, an Alpine 9886R which is absolutely awesome, feeding the Ipod and USB connectors
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thats a thirsy driveway youve got there! Yet another car ive always wanted, frequently sought and tested but never actually put the money down on, but probably will be my next project, a JDM model though, i think the JDM lights are nicer, and a little more power which is always nice. These older cars will become increasingly sought after and the prices i feel will start to go up when people cotton on to the fact that they wont be following the exponential trend of tax banding. The trouble with newer big engine cars now will be the massive tax bands they fall into, f*cking government trying to
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I nearly bought a blue Mk5 R32 with leather RECARO buckets and full black interior in 06, bought a mazda 3 MPS instead which, while a fair lick faster, was rubbish and sold it after 2 months. Every time i see a blue Mk5 my heart just sinks cos its the one that got away, and i kick myself and think why didnt i just buy the R32?!?!? Worse still the one i was going to buy was bought by a man who lives in close proximity to me and he even joined the same gym as me so i used to see the very one i could have had all the time Is it facelift or pre-fl? I always preferred the pre-fl wheels, thought the
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I bled my ABS pump and system with vagcom using the basic bleed and also turned the rears upside down to release any air pockets. I also used the output test to run each corner through the pump with the bleed screws open and air bubbled out. This improved things markedly but still felt a bit numb and there was about an inch or so of nothing before any resistance was felt even thought there was def not a lack of power. Having a goof B-road blast to give the brakes some good exercise has brought all the meat back and it now has resistance right from the top of the pedal. All in all, success -
spent all day yesterday pissing about with vagcom and older versions on vista, they kept crashing out, i spent more time messing about ttrying to make it work than it took to dual boot my laptop with XP and it works 100%
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did that, but i cut the lines so it removes the current integrity of the hydraulic system or sommat, i had the front lines disconnected as it was easier to run all new fronts. See what happens tomorrow hopefully the OBD2 usb will hook up as its not been up to the car yet so dont know if it'll make a successful connection till i try it.
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These snippets of information are what i have found so far off vwvortex, IIRC there is a procedure to bleed the brakes using the vag-com. You put the car up on jacks, connect the vag-com. Select ABS then one of the options on the ABS screen gives you the testing / bleeding procedure. You need 2 people, one to operate the vag and the brake pedal the other to bleed the brakes as required by the vag display. The software takes you through the whole process telling you when to apply brake pressure and what bleed screws to open and close. IIRC it's just the front bleed screws used. someone else o
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i have a registered 409.1us that i think will work with an ebay lead, according to google the .us part means it will work with a usb lead so i hope universal leads do cos thats how ill be trying it
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whats the exact procedure in vag com to do an ABS purge?
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As the original lines had 13 years exposure to muck and weather the ends were all welded together, so I had to cut the metal lines and run new lines, so they were disconnected from the ABS pump, im getting surer and surer that it needs vagcom to purge the valves. Theyve suggested that each corner wants blocking off with a sealed plug then bleeding 1 corner at a time too now, but i thought thats what the bleed nipples are for no?
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thats my thought too, though the ex VW mechanic doing it for me didnt really listen to my suggestion even though it will only take a 10 second procedure
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Ive had braided hoses fitted and it feels like air in the lines even after pressure bleeding twice, i swapped to braided hoses to get better feel and its far worse! Its spongy like theres air still in there somewhere even though there apparently cant be, the pedal has to travel further to get any response too Any help? Cheers
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w5w is just another name for a 501 wedge capless bulb, t5kyo said it wasnt the 501 wedge type so can only be 233 ??
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standard twin chamber lights
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its a 233 bulb
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This is how you remove golfs but i should think they should be the same on a vento. If not someone will surely correct. Front - The fronts held on by 3 10mm bolts along the top and i think 5 along the underside of the part where the number plate sits. remember to take the temp sensor out of the lower grille or you risk snapping the wire. Take the indicators and fogs out and disconnect the bulbs. Undo the big plastic rivets at the front of the front arches with a punch then the bumper should just heave off towards the front of the car, with the bolts removed its held on by runners on the sides
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did anything happen with the MOT tester? still considering this with mine by the way of the witnesses at the garage that saw the damage on mine before it wa done and the documented repairs
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i thought a bit of a weep from the left hand side of a vr6 engine was "not a problem but a feature" as microsoft say every time they have an issue
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gutted, an hour after i had it home after having the underside work tetrashultz sealed, the interior wasnt even in yet, i was lining up the headlights and purely my own fault as ive been so used to leaving it in gear and handbrake off, i took my foot off the clutch and the car lurched forwards, into a brick wall, the leading edge of the bumper above the front number plate is chipped up to fook. Luckily i can get it sorted out and put right, but it put a right dampener on getting it back. No one else can really notice it but i know its there so I want it putting right, after the time ive spent
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you could pull the spade connectors off the sensors on top of the filter housing, asd you are looking at it left is high right is low, pull them off one at a time and see what difference it makes, you arent gonna damage anything cos they only control the light coming on, its prob high pressure sensor causing it, on the left as you look at it, but at least youll then know that high pressure is the cause
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VR6 need 10w40 semi The best and most of the time cheapest is synta silver from your local TPS, dirt cheap and top stuff for VR6 engines. The previous owner filled mine up with full syn and it was burning it as quick as petrol and ran like sh!te, a change to silver and it runs smooth as silk
