ssaunders
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Posts posted by ssaunders
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Hi, All sorted! Took it to a local racecar preparation garage, couple of hours later they have refurbed the old one good as new!
A big thanks to John and his team @ http://www.johndanbyracing.com
TFL
Steve
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Hi All, i have the above on the Rado with coilovers (FK Konig sports) i cant justify the £100 each to replace, any suggestions on what i could use instead? not bothered about the adjustability.
cheers
steve
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Hi All, new trouble with VR!
Basically I was racing a skyline when the throttle body spring got stuck, fully open! I limped the car home (ignition off mostly (no brakes or PAS)) as the engine when on just bounced off the limiter!
The car was bought ready modded (ex mag car 2004) and it's nearly all custom, as I'm finding out! It has a Wagner tuning intake (HPA clone?) so the throttle body is mounted behind the radiator for a super short FMIC to throttle pipe run. I have spare ODB2 TB which won't fit and bought an ODB1 today that won't fit without work.
Here are pics, the new working TB (with TPS) and old (without TPS) where I have tried to trial fit to manifold the angle of runner is wrong and full throttle has +2 inches of slack.
Side by side the old one has less total width (needed as its close to radiator) larger and angled cable guide/runner (angle can be seen in top down/side view)
I need suggestions please, my 2 current ideas are
1) find a 75mm one of these - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/70MM-THROTTLE-BODY-PERFORMANCE-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-BILLET-ALUMINUM-HIGH-FLOW-BLUE-/191213044002?hash=item2c852f8122 and hope it fits or
2) give old and new TB's to an old guy in a shed to fabricate a replacement
Anyone know any good fabricators?
And to top it all I broke the f*cking crack pipe while I was messing about!
Thanks for looking.
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Is it definitely the controller? Good way to test is
1) clear faults and turn ignition off
2) lift rear seats, you will see a couple of cables going to rear wheel wells and the connectors around the middle, these will be the ABS sensors
3) swap them over
4) turn on ignition and check vcds for errors, if the same sensor is showing as faulty it's likely the controller (as you just swapped them)
It is possible to remove controller only but you need to be careful of bending and breaking the brake lines.
Once off send to BBA reman, mine lasted for 4+ years and should still be going as Dave cw now has the car.
Please don't do the remove bulb from warning light fix as that is a bodge job and the VR deserves better!
Peace out.
S
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Hi All, more issues with the VR! i was racing a skyline on sunday and had a slight issue, the spring on the throttle body decided to break leaving me with a engine bouncing off the limiter! i managed to get home with the smell of burning clutch and a melting turbo.
Now with the engine off but ignition on the boost solenoid was clicking like mad so i think its knackered, i dont have part number yet but its a bit bigger than a normal N75 valve.
has anyone got suggestions as to a decent replacement or will any 3 port solenoid do?
cheers
steve
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Hi all, got the 'licence loser' mapped today. Kudos to Redline Tuning in Basildon! Money well spent (so far 25 miles in) no longer have the flame spitting 'Asbo' map, just low,middle and high boost (260,290 and 336)
So what's peoples experience with Syncro diffs? How soon am I going to have issues? I will only use low and middle, high will occasionally be used to wipe people's smirks off (at you some BMW drivers)
I know I should look at haldex but that's longer term and best part of 2k.
Am I right in thinking that the rear drive only comes in when the front loses traction (VC) and with maximum split its still 50/50? So with my current setup (336hp and 320tq, high boost and torque measured at flywheel) the rear diff will only see 160lb/ft and only when both fronts have 0-50% traction?
Is it possible to uprate the rear diff? I believe it's the same as the T3/4 transporters?
I shouldn't have issues with the gearbox as it's got a quaife 6 speed (question/statement)?
Thanks for looking
S
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Name: VW Corrado (1993)
Date Added: 28 August 2015 - 08:21 PM
Owner: ssaunders
Short Description: None Provided
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Hi, I run ngk bk7's gapped to .25 apparently I could run a bigger gap as I have a ford V6 coil pack conversion but I haven't tested the theory yet. Leads I believe are standard 8mm? ECP specials.
S
Sorry car is Rado VR6 turbo 4x4 running 310'ish
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Hi All, as title suggests i have more issues.......
i cant get to the back of the alternator (as the short runner is in the way) and need to disconnect it to get to a garage (overcharge is boiling the battery!) does anyone know if its daisy changed from the starter motor live? and could i remove that live once the engine is started?
cheers
steve
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Hi all, as above I need one by Friday. Links to cheap ones appreciated.
Cheers
Steve
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Hi All, i am looking to extending my air intake when i relocate my battery, i need a 90 degree bend about 7 inches long (4inch diameter) .
my question is can i use a silicon elbow or would it collapse?
thanks for looking.
steve
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Hi All, looking at battery relocation and boxes. Seen these
And also these
All suggestions gladly accepted
Cheers
Steve
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Hi, literally take it out and join the hoses that went in. I would replace though as VR's do run hot.
S
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hi, got a set of angel eyes. plastic lenses, one just had a new converter for the angel bit (florescent i think)
http://www.vr6oc.com/forum/garage/vehicle/9-vw-golf-mk3/
£60 plus delivery.
s
got a US spec centre console as well?
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hi all, i have been playing about with the Rado to get the idle right and try to get rid of the occasional stalling at lights, i have attached a log file of around idle (stationary) and the last bit is driving, i thought i had sorted it but when i went driving it started again. the afr swings wildly and i thought that i was advancing the ignition too much (250-500 rpm 25 advance, 500-750 12 degrees) as i read this can bump up the revs.
any input is appreciated.
cheers
steve
ok, how do i upload and excel file?
sorted
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Hi, i drove from down south to him. no more than half a day on the rollers so if you set out early only a day. i would say make sure that the car is in tip-top condition before you go, its a long way to go to find out when you get there that there is an issue. i would do a service first, plugs leads oil and filters etc.
in my experience the VR is sluggish lowdown, mine only felt nice to drive after cams, schrick etc.. i was expecting more from a 2.8 V6 and at the last RR day at stealth that i went to a pissy fiesta st pulled more than a lot of cars +200hp and tq!
good luck
s
Abs pump
in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Posted
keep chasing them, couldnt fault their repair at all.
s