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legvw

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Everything posted by legvw

  1. I think your right about the lambda, i think its causing the running problems. The plug should be down by the rear left engine mount, and the bung is just after the downpipe flange, before the cat. What sealant are you using to seal the oil leak? Are you cleaning the faces properly, with brake cleaner?
  2. Sounding sweet ben, and that does deserve some respect (your b&q handy work!). Liking it! :-)
  3. Could the motor have jumped a few cogs, don't really know how they work but if you can take the motor out, use the switch to open it until the motor stops, thenuse the switch to put the motor back in the shut position, then bolt the motor on it should be back to normal? (if that makes any sense!!!)
  4. The lip will help the pipe stay on, if you just use clamps you might crush the pipe if it has a thin wall. If its thicker walled pipe it might be ok.
  5. Why not just stick a set of ebc discs and yellow stuff pads on, should be ok for a sesson.
  6. Small update, changed oil and filter pre tuning on thursday, had another oil leak to sort out, this time on a power steering joint! Also fitted an oil catch tank, and bolted the bracket to the alternator tensioner bolts. Fits well!
  7. Um, think dash has to come out, makes life easier, but takes a bit longer. Can't see how it can be done with dash in-situ????
  8. Nice looking parts, fresh an clean, ready for some abuse! :-) What else is 'to come'?
  9. Chuffin nora, thats some figures!!! Well done fella! :-)
  10. Is that a roll call mate? I'm in! July sunshine....mmmm.... :-)
  11. Why not get a carbon fibre panel made up, from performance trim? No drilling etc, just stuck on, with VERY sticky glue?? Light weight and sexy..
  12. Small update, swapped thermostats to the original 80c from the 70c i had in there. I think it wasn't helping the mapping as it was running really too cool, crusing it showed 65c ish! Also (thanks to the idea from matty.vrt) i've used the same stuff thats used to line brick kilns with to lag to headers of the exhaust, and stuff a bit around the turbo. I used some of the heat reflective fabric to line the inside of my bonnet around the turbo and exhaust to prevent any paint blisters appearing! (i'l post some pics up tomoz peeps) After all that i had a play with the mapping, mainly the cold and h
  13. I use a magnetic drain plug, going to do a service soon so i'l see if its picked anything up! :-)
  14. Think it main dealer only part, and there is something on here that sells the guards too.. Try this http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?333614.post
  15. LMFAO! We'd need a bottling station for all that gas! Mind you, it would be a bit smelly going up the strip :-)
  16. LOL! Veg does do that to me too, loadsa wind!
  17. If you can send me a pic of your m/c i might be able to send you a working 1 to try if you like?
  18. Sounds very similar to a problem i had recently. Are you bleeding the system with the bias valve fully open? If not it could restrict the bleeding process. Can you bleed the master cylinder? If you can bleed that last, after the calipers. Can you lock the fronts wheels when moving? If you can't i'd say its the fronts thats causing the problems. If you can lock the fronts then its your rear brakes. Double check all the joints, as 1 thats leaking my allow enough air into the system to cause the spongey pedal. Are you still using the vw split system-diagonal (n/s/f joined to o/s/r, o/s/f joined t
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