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Therusterman

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Everything posted by Therusterman

  1. Brake update and PCV replacement Since bleeding the brakes with VCDS they have improved a great deal, there is so much more feel with them now and work much more progressively. Despite the discs and pads been I'd say at least 70% worn the brakes have never felt better. All I can say is that if you want to bleed the brakes properly (and you have ABS) you'll need to have access to diagnostic equipment to do it properly. PCV The new and genuine PCV arrived from VW Parts International late last week. When I spoke to the chaps over there last week they commented on how they can only get them
  2. 2/6/14 We're on the road to nowhere Right. Just to update this, the car is now back on the road after a couple of hiccups. Firstly the exhaust blow has been cured once and for all. I took the car to the guys down at Styledynamics in Hayes. They are a great bunch of guys and they cut off 3'' off the exhaust where it joins the cat, flaired a new peice to fit perfectly then TIG welded the new part onto the rest of the exhaust. As a little Brucey bonus they refitted the rest of the exhaust and got it fitted perfectly. No more more blowing, the exhaust sounds a lot better for just cruising with,
  3. Systems check....failed With little else that I can do until the air con bits arrive (these were dispatched yesterday and went from Gatwick all the way to Coventry overnight?!) I thought it best to run the engine to see if any leaks were detected... The radiator was quickly plumbed back in and just filled with tap water to act as a flush, and I started the engine. On the plus side the engine fired right up, however (there is always a however at the moment) a number of issues were found; Exhaust still blowing, I'm going to try one more new clamp then take the car to an exhaust specialis
  4. Sounds your best bet. From what I can gather you shouldn't need an external oil cooler if oil temps are maintained below 110 degrees Celsius. Someone correct me if i'm wrong though.
  5. Sounds like parts 8 (1H2819415B) & 9 ( 1H2819416C) below, called a 'water deflector'
  6. Mid maintenance work update Been very busy all of yesterday and this morning, got a few bits ticked off the list, and one or two items to add on. After fitting the oil cooler and cleaning the old oil off the block, yesterday I decided to have a change of scenery and make a start on the brake lines. This wasn't as bad as I was expecting, but no walk in the park either. I firstly sprayed all the brake pipe unions with WD-40 and left them to dwell for a while, then attacked the fittings armed with a brake pipe spanner. Unfortunately the solid pipe that is between the two rubber pipes on the
  7. Looks to be some condensation. One way to be sure the head gasket is ok would be to conduct a compression test. Regarding the oil cooler, I've just replaced mine over the weekend. I would strongly recommend taking the front end off. The amount of effort and time required to get to the coolant lines running to the oil cooler, let alone the limited space, would be made up by taking the front end off and having perfect access; With front on; With front off; I know its a pain having to get the air conditioning re-gassed, but its also a good opportunity to replace the a/c drier aswel
  8. Whats the problem you have? I *think* it is something to either do with the air re circulation function inside the car, or the air conditioning, like part 9 below:
  9. Summer service commenced Started with the summer service yesterday morning when I cam off nights. Main jobs to do are; Replace service items; Oil, oil filter, air conditioning receiver/drier, air filter and cabin filterReplace oil cooler and hosesInvestigate oil leak (hopefully from the above)Re-seal oil sump if requiredFit Goodridge braided brake linesInvestigate exhaust blow at catalytic converter join.Started yesterday by investigating the oil leak, stripped down the front end, thermostat housing and oil cooler which exposed this; The area was cleaned as much as possible. Part of t
  10. Wouldn't risk driving it if you can avoid it buddy
  11. First thing I'd do is whip the auxiliary belt off-just wind a m6 (i think or m8) bolt into the tensioner to release the belt tension then take it off. Then you'll be able to spin the pulleys independently and see which one is causing the problem.
  12. Parts haul Placed a big order on Wednesday. Parts wise this included a new (Febi) oil cooler, oil cooler gaskets (Febi), oil cooler hoses (Meyle), sump gasket (Elring) and a new gasket for the thermostat housing (V.W) in case it needs to come off. All the parts arrived today which i'm pleased with as it all had free p&p. Awaiting a few bits and piece's still like coolant and some tools, got my leave booked at work so will have plenty of time to get it all sorted out properly I hope.
  13. There is a gasket available, but this is for engines produced up to number 255785. I can only assume the sump may of been slightly different?
  14. That's what I used last time, just thought this stuff may work slightly better. Or maybe I should put more care and effort into sealing metal mating surfaces.
  15. You can at least get the metal mounts for the glass p/n 165945170
  16. Thanks for that mate. Just so happens I ordered some sealant last night. VW wanted nearly £25 for a tube, but managed to find an aftermarket equivalent made by a crowd called Dirko.
  17. Yup, got one of those. When I first purchased the car, all I could find was the metal guides stuck to the window and a couple of wires. Managed to find the bits through eBay and some internet searching. Only cost around £20 I think to reinstate, and that was with genuine bits.
  18. Seemed to be a much more common option over in the states
  19. I see, I purchased a cheap obd 2 scanner off eBay which lets me read and clear codes, reset abs etc cost about £12
  20. 6 Month maintenance and service I've begun stock piling parts for a few jobs on the VR later on in May. Things that need doing are an oil service-will also do pollen filter and air filter as I've not changed it since owning the car. The air conditioning also isn't up to much at the minute and still smells damp. I've read the receiver/drier should be changed every couple of years so have one of those as well. The main job that I need to do is to resolve a small oil leak I have somewhere at the front of the engine block. This has been there ever since I did the timing chains last summer, an
  21. I bought an obd2 lead cheap off the 'bay, then downloaded VCDS lite from the rosstech website, this gives you enough functionality to reset abs lights, read fault codes and a number of measuring blocks, all for free!
  22. Head over to the vw vortex, I found a guide on there going through step by step how to do the chains, I also found a guide on here on gearbox removal. I read through both of those a few times and they were a massive help showing me what to do. One other tip is to put bolts back in what they came out of if possible, so you don't put them in the wrong place. On that note, one thing to look out for is when you remove the gearbox, make triple sure the bolts go back in the correct place, some are longer than others, and its possible to puncture the water jacket of the block!
  23. What Lukey said, did this last year, don't rush it!
  24. That's the kind of info i'm looking for, many thanks. The block is machine flat, but the sump has some perforations going around it, will grab a gasket and some sealant and give it a try.
  25. That's what I'm leaning towards, just can't understand why VW went from using a gasket to a sealer instead?!
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