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UnitedMotorsport

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Everything posted by UnitedMotorsport

  1. A stock block, with stock rods and stock pistons, using new wear and tear items that you would have to replace on your old engine. Mate this to a good second hand head after changing the valve stem seals. There is NO NEED atall to use anything other than a standard head. Fit the head to the block using a head spacer of course. You only need to concider steel rods when you make over 500lbft of torque With money being tight, I'd bet that you can get 6 conrods cryo/peen treated for less than the cost of 1 steel rod! Out of curiousity what make rods did you have?
  2. You need the loom that runds fro the fuse box to the ECU/Engine, and the loom that runs around the engine - They are both different.
  3. Why dont you buy a set of rods for the V5, and keep 4 as spares? Other people might find them in the same position you are right now. I would put a good bottom end back in with a spacer, as your turbo isnt gonna cause it any trouble.
  4. From your average MPG figures you are using ~25% more fuel. Is it a coincedence that 25% is the maximum lambda trim? Who fitted the cay bypass? did they refit the lambda probe? On on OBD1 car, if the lambda sensor is missing the ECU automatically adds maxium fuel trim (25%)
  5. If you can smell petrol, check for fuel leaks!
  6. LOL. at over 100mph. I wonder how many people will come to see that alone
  7. you should get far less than high 13's with a VRT
  8. I think it should all be on one table, but with markers next to each entry, marking 2/4wd and Fi/NA, Jim: Let me know when you want to try some launch control
  9. So who has the quickest 1/4 mile on here then?
  10. ETKA says ~£1 each. Use this as a guide as its not 100% accurate. They are M10x78 bolts, 14 of them.
  11. Run the side port of the waste gate to a port on the compressor housing of the turbo. The side port of the wastegate is the signal line if you like. The top port is for boost control.
  12. ^^^^^ spot on. As the switch in the yellow sensor is the "fan run on" switch, and is only active when temperatures are too high.
  13. there should be a belt joining the 2 fans together If you notice, only one fan as a motor.
  14. All that points to the fan control circuit not working. Either: the switch that screws into the radiator has failed, or there is a blown fuse in the fan control unit (under the header tank.) As Goth says, only one fan turning means the ajoining belt has snapped.
  15. What is the part number of the ECU you have?
  16. think you hit the wrong hey there 5*112 not 122;) Your dead right
  17. Or buy the 2,9 spec OBD2 manifold as found on VR6 Syncros
  18. For us to remove the immo from a OBD2 VR6 is £100. This includes secure postage back to your self. We can turn this around and have it back out the door the very same day we receive it. Send us a PM if you wish to go this route.
  19. You cant get them redrilled, as they are actually 10x112mm, which leaves no room for redrilling. I cant see them fitting inside 17" wheels.
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