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Devildub_06

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Everything posted by Devildub_06

  1. Devildub_06
    Were the plugs black when you took them out? It sounds like a fuelling issue, which after the work you've done would probably centre itself as the Lambda probe being the problem. Any chance of a VAG.COM?
  2. Devildub_06
    Well you have a problem now as the garage are effectively in control of the situation as the box is out. You regain control again once the job is completed so I would hold back any bartering until the car is in a driveable condition. 2 weeks for a 2 day job is simply inexcusable if the car was booked in correctly. Don't ever be scared of garages either, you are the customer after all, and if you're unsatisfied with any aspect of a job, then you have the right to say, so go in there and state you want 15% off (aiming for about 10%)
  3. Devildub_06
    I should say so, as a mechanic myself I get so sick of these stories about time taken and bad jobs. I'd most definately haggle a discount, and stress the importance of needing your car (make up some shite story about your other one breaking too if you have one)
  4. Devildub_06
    Check the back plate on your front brake disc for sufficient clearance, but i'd have an educated guess at wishbone bush. Do you know when these were done last?
  5. Devildub_06
    Could well be the voltage regulator in the back of the dash (being model inspecific here). Engine wise sounds like an intermittent misfire, but i'd get your clocks working first before anything else.
  6. Devildub_06
    Bleed ABS unit as per C2's suggestion. What I suggest you try then is some flexible brake line clamps on 3 of the 4 calipers, push the pedal and record any movement (a mate comes in real handy about this time!!). Rotate this clamping procedure to each wheel and record any movement in the unclamped brake line. I should think C2 is right though, ABS units are an air trap.
  7. Devildub_06
    I've never known engine bay heat to affect a metal conductor's ability?? It may be due to the heat that the insulation gets damaged easier, that would cause you a problem, but not if they were properly secured/good condition leads.
  8. Devildub_06
    Not really, you'll effectively just end up wasting more fuel because the fan will cut in quicker. The standard fan and fully working cooling system are more than capable of keeping a standard or mildly modified enigne within operating temperautre.
  9. Devildub_06
    I'd say headgasket too being a mech, but if you've continually been starting it up like it, chances are you've warped the head too which is going to cost you a fortune.
  10. Devildub_06
    Sounds like your gauge wires are earthing out to me, and if it's affecting coolant and oil, it's probably going to be behind the dash.
  11. Devildub_06
    Ask a silly question time, but with a bit of jiggery pokery, will the 4 pot brembo calipers off a Seat Leon Cupra R go onto a VR? And in the same breath, could you use them in conjunction with a 312mm conversion?? Many thanks
  12. Devildub_06
    Just answered your PM, let me know how you get on.
  13. Devildub_06
    The grid is there to reduce turbulence of the incoming air. Taking this off may result in poor running as you will be swirling air towards the sensor which will in turn not be able to create the right signal when it comes to fuelling.
  14. Devildub_06
    Is it well maintained? Know it sounds like a dumb arse question but you'd be surprised what passes for well maintained in this day and age. Also seen a few threads like this already, might be worth checking your HT leads, especially if they're "high performance" ones.
  15. Devildub_06
    The "cooler" plugs transfer heat away from the firing tip faster preventing overheating (as you well know this causes the plug to break down and cause misfire). The same can be said in vice versa about "hotter" plugs which transfer heat away from the firing tip more slowly (these are used on cooler running engines where extra heat is needed in the plug to prevent coking up).
  16. Devildub_06
    No car would ever intentionally be made to misfire (with the exception of rev limiting), it would destroy the catalytic convertor! The clio 182 ECU is a little bit smarter than the VR6 one, but i'm pretty sure it doesn't have a cold rev limiter, the only car I can think od that does off the cuff is the new BMW M3 which sets rev limiting in stages from cold to hot.
  17. Devildub_06
    Could do that, although if you have any oil remaining in the bore when you perform it, the result maybe slightly higher than you would expect. If it's burning oil then you can assume that werever it's coming in from, it cannot escape from quick enough, so may give you a false result. Compression checks exist to trace sealing issues such as ill seating valves, worn bores, and severe leaks across the head gasket, but then you'd do a leakdown test to find out where the leak was coming from anyway!
  18. Devildub_06
    Any good garage should be able to perform one
  19. Devildub_06
    Have a leakdown test done, this will eliminate the rings, then it would be a case of valve stem seals. It will affect combustion, so performance may suffer as a result.
  20. Devildub_06
    1st off OBD 2 didn't come into play until '95, it is only the very earliest OBD 1 cars that had a distributor, and then came in with a coilpack variant. 2nd, high mileage to an engine is mostly a myth, you can completely screw an engine at 30k, or you could have one at 200k that goes like brand new, all depends on the way it's looked after, and the way it's worked. I've seen plenty of these at 170-180k running absolutely gorgeous so I wouldn't let 132k put you off if it runs as well as you say. The only thing you may have to do is replace more of the wear and tear items like gaskets and sea
  21. Devildub_06
    Depends on whether your coolant escaped during said accident whilst the engine was still running, if that's the case then there is a chance the engine may have overheated in this time frame, potentially warping the head and taking the head gasket with it. I would start by ensuring the coolant system is properly bled out too. See what happens after you do.
  22. Devildub_06
    Has anybody had any experience of the Kaaz one?
  23. Devildub_06
    Did you clean the throttle body in situ or remove completely, maybe that you sent some gunk down the tube for the idle bypass, in which case give that some love too.
  24. Devildub_06
    Don't know what the "official" specs are, mine used 3-500ml every 1,000 miles.
  25. Devildub_06
    I will probably be shouted down for this, but I would recommend that any drop over 40mm should have shorter shocks absorbers to accompany them. There is always a greater risk of standard shock absorbers internally reaching their maximum travel, and therefore prematurely expiring as a result. I know it's greater expense but personally while it was all apart, i'd fit new shock absorbers too as old shock absorbers are never going to have the same efficiency as new ones, and that's where your handling will suffer.
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