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Devildub_06

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Everything posted by Devildub_06

  1. You can use a proprietary aerosol brake cleaning agent being careful not to allow it to get into contact with the caliper seals as it is quite aggressive. If you're worried that it might, squirt some into the lid and use a paint brush dipped in the cleaner to clean the calipers. Rinse off and key with a bit of scotchbrite, and as per sankys give 2 coats leaving plenty of drying time between. That's how i've done mine in the past and they come out great.
  2. Have you recently filled up with fuel where you wouldn't normally? Give your MAF sensor a clean (or just see if it is mucky). What software did the garage use? And is it OBD1 or 2
  3. Well I have known of engine problems caused by nothing more than a dirty air filer. Might be worth your while just whipping it out to check the condition of it. Also see if there are any air leaks after the MAF sensor.
  4. Not meaning to sound like a plank, but did you change your air filter while you were at changing everything else? Or are you running an induction kit?
  5. Kev, is it a pain fitting a Walbro 255 in tank? I'm soon to be embarking on an extensive project soon involving and OBD1 VR6 Golf. While i'm at it, and not meaning to open a tin of worms with the VR6T crowd, but is it worth my while Aiming for 350bhp with an OBD1 car? It's available, bodywork is lovely but has been laid up for a while but aim to be taking it apart and rebuilding the engine and box myself. Knowing you're one of the smartest VRT owners on here would appreciate your advice.
  6. 1cal, whip your plugs out too and make a not of the colours and condition as a start, and yeah do clean the gunk out of the breather. Damo 85 does sound a bit remeniscent of a failing plug so you maybe lucky in that it gets sorted after service and cleaning various bits, if it's the same or worse after service, reply to the thread. Good luck both of you!
  7. Hopefully this will just be a partial load miss (Check your plugs), but if you've had to put 5 litres of oil in then I think some internal issues may exist. Someone may correct me here but VR6's take 6 or 6.5 litres oil so that poor beaut was near enough dry! If you think it's due to heavy oil consumption check your plugs (They'll be black as the hat), or for smoke (will be blue). And check your crankcase breather too, no engines like these to be blocked. Good luck!
  8. Well you wouldn't notice that on a compression gauge, it would literally take your highest compression and stay there so you can record it. When a head gasket "goes", the loss of the compression across the headgasket is marginal to the amount or compression that can be produced. A headgasket would have to be properly mullered to notice big drops. What you could do if you know someone who has the equipment is do a "cylinder leakage" test. Don't know if you know about this at all but in basic speak you take your spark plugs out, put the cylinder you want testing at TDC on the compression stro
  9. As a MK1 GTi is a N/A 4 pot, I doubt it would be up to the job, I would personally go straight for uprated. I believe though that the school of thought is divided on the use of in lines or in tanks. 407BHP VR and Kevhaywire seem to know a hell of a lot and I think each one runs the pumps you mention above.
  10. Failing that, fit the VR6 (Which I should have encouraged being's as we're on VR6OC lol!
  11. Ok, coolant pipes should never get rock hard, that would tend to suggest that there is excess pressure being created, most likely be combustion pressure entering the cooling system. Which would also be enough to throw the coolant out. As far as I know, a "sniffer" test can only be performed with proper and 'ucking expensive equipment, so it would be a trip to the garage. Having said that, there are a few other things you can do. Check your dipstick for mayo, check your plugs to see if they're black or unusually clean, and when you rev the engine see if you are getting quite a few bubbles comi
  12. I would recommend that you clean your idle bypass valve out as it sounds as if it's sticking slightly. VR6 engines should start promptly without the need to touch the accelerator and the idle bypass initially takes the revs up to a little over 1000 rpm before quickly settling back down to 650-750 ish rpm. Does it drive like it's lost any power? Any hesitation in particular rev bands?
  13. I was thinking initially that it maybe a slightly sticky idle bypass, and a light throttle opening would override this. If it fires on the button then it pretty much centres on that as the fault. If not then I would consider checking for injector rail leak back, and yes a compression test. In no way meaning to be rude at all I try to give basic diagnostic advice assuming that people who have problems have little experience in fault finding, and try to find the easiest route to finding the problem. I more than welcome feedback after doing things I say to do and hopefully go from there, but
  14. Hiya, I am a mechanic, and I did notice this post but didn't have time to answer last night. Ok from the top and in noticing what you've done I would have a crack at the following. 1. If you are pretty sure it had run all the way out of fuel, have a ganders at the fuel filter or change it to be on the safe side. 2. If it's not too much bother to do, just make doubly sure that the thermostat is the correct rating. 3. I notice you've obviously had to change the coolant due to replacing the water pump and thermostat, but I notice that you've bled it as best you can and it "empties itself", do
  15. Ok, try this for a basic diagnostic check, does the car start better when hot if you have a little bit of accelerator on?
  16. I found £99 for the above kit at Essex racing. Don't fit them to standard or cheap lights though or they'll tarnish like a barsteward.
  17. Were the lambda values taking whilst it was on the rolling road? I remember in a previous life that some people were complaining about superchips for the same reasons so will need it VAG'ed to find any error kick ups, and I agree with xyber, work out your fuel consumption by what you put in your tank and not what the dash says, on my old highline it regularly read 7MPG lol.
  18. Not really, if it runs fine but is just a hot starting issue, i'd say spark plugs and HT leads are doing their jobs reasonably enough. Do you notice if there is a puff of smoke out the back when it fires? Do you notice the fuel pump "priming" before starting?
  19. A product like Slick 50 is a "lubrication enhancer", though it's nothing I would use personally. If you suspect oil starvation, i'd be looking at getting it sorted.
  20. Best to see if that earth fault still exists first, but my thinking would be that if it was a severe MAF prob, it would just run terribly all the way through if at all. My second thought if it's even crap from cold through to warm is that air maybe entering after the MAF which is being picked up by the lambda which in turn is chucked a shed load of fuel in to compensate. Did you originally reset the ECU after repairing the MAF connector? it maybe that adaptions have picked up some bad habits which it can't shake. Always worth doing the easy stuff first!
  21. Does this only happen when the engine's warm warm, or at all temp conditions?
  22. Try chipsaway on 0800 028 7878 (they are a mobile company), they used to only do paint chips but have expanded into interior trim repair. No idea on price but can find out a rough estimate as they did a trim repair on a car at work.
  23. Modify a windscreen wiper motor, should do the trick depending on how you build it.
  24. In-Pro make Mk4 style headlights for the MK3 with incorperated indicator. eurocarparformance stock them, despite the ones I mention being LHD, i'm pretty sure they can get RHD if you ask.
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