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Devildub_06

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Everything posted by Devildub_06

  1. Devildub_06
    I'd be tempted to start with some basic diagnostics... first of all, make sure all your connections to the coilpack are sound and free of moisture. Check your leads, and whip your plugs out, turn the engine over for several seconds to clear unburnt fuel. Check the air piping back from your box to your MAF, and from your MAF back, it may be that you have a split in the tubing after the MAF and as such the engine draws in air that the MAF can't account for, and the ECU then fuels up to safeguard the engine. Have a pick and a prod at your lambda wiring and check for breaks and degredation. And
  2. Devildub_06
    Many thanks Bobtrude, does this mean then that the OBD1 ECU can itself be remapped (apologies for my lack of expertise in this particular area, but we all have to learn something lol). If not fitting an ATB or LSD would it not be suseptible to quite a lot of torque steer?
  3. Devildub_06
    Purely guesswork but I suppose it would depend on the Lambda probe itself, if it's a UEGO then a scan would probably pin it down, if it's a HEGO, then it may miss out the heating channel, and this would cause false readings if they're cold, the scan would just check to see if it's measuring.
  4. Devildub_06
    Right picking some smart VR6T brains here....I'm conducting some research ahead of stripping a golf for a project. It's a '94 OBD1 car which i'm aiming to hit 350 horses using a combination of sensible advice on here (and obviously some money's worth of kit lol). I do not wish to go standalone, nor faff about with converting to OBD2 (though may consider it as it is to be totally stripped out), but if someone could point out the limitations of the OBD1, and what is the ceiling of the power that can be sensibly acheived?? Many thanks all
  5. Devildub_06
    Have you progressed any further with this as yet?
  6. Devildub_06
    Personally i'd prefer to retain it within the tank, the "big arse shiny look at my torpedo" fuel pump doesn't really do it for me, I aim to keep everything to a minimum underneath if poss. And I don't mind a bit of noise at all, I like to hear things working lol
  7. Devildub_06
    If you have done all that work, I would start looking lambda sensor region, may be corrected here again but a scan may not necessarily bring up a lambda probe fault (Not exactly sure when the OBD1/2 changeover year is, but OBD1 is a lot less informative on error recall). I would just check the wiring and plug, even whip out the probe itself if convenient to make sure it's not excessively coked up.
  8. Devildub_06
    Have it VAGcom'd to see if it brings up lambda or crank sensor issues. Someone else recently had a similar prob and it turned out to be a broken lambda wire.
  9. Devildub_06
    Hi sticks, can't wing a picture at the mo, but the easiest way to find the unit (Not sure if it's exactly the same for OBD1 and OBD2 cars), if you follow the tubing back from the air filter, past the Mass Air Flow sensor, you will notice a pipe that comes out just before the throttle butterfly and goes into a small unit that will have an electrical plug on it also, this will then have a pipe coming off the other side of it that reconnects after the throttle butterfly. This is the offending idle bypass, and hope this helps and/or I can be corrected for different types.
  10. Devildub_06
    Lucky you didn't go and order yourself a new fuel pump!! Well done mate
  11. Devildub_06
    Check the obvious (split hoses etc) and check the cleanliness of your throttle butterfly, it may have accumulated some crap on it which causes the whistle you mention (a lot like a nose that needs blowing lol).
  12. Devildub_06
    Thanks :-) I'm probably the most opinionated / voiced rather than smartest ;-) There are other knowledgable folk on here but they keep to the sidelines. Greatly appreciated, always good to hear from a "been there done that" person as I know it is then a reliable solution. I was going to go for a Bosch (when I see the damn car i'm trying to get hold of lol!!), as they're used a hell of a lot in the engine testing facility I work for, but I would rather it be neat and tidy. I hope this info helps Antone28 who's thread I seem to have stolen (sorry :$ )
  13. Devildub_06
    Can't say for 100% and sorry for the late reply but as a sensor it should be directly onto the ECU wiring loom, and should also be colour coded. As a basic wiring check do the continuity on the wires that you can identify and check any to earth. If all checks out ok, chances are a voltage spike has probably affected that portion of the ECU.
  14. Devildub_06
    Seems to be my answer to quite a lot on here atm, but have a crack at cleaning your idle bypass valve out.. Failing that, have it on VAGcom to see if it flags up an intermittent crank/cam postion sensor.
  15. Devildub_06
    What software did the garage use? And is it OBD1 or 2. I'm pretty sure owing to posts on here that VAGcom is the only way to ensure error codes are obtained properly, so if your garage is using Sun or Snap on etc, they maybe missing something vital. Just a thought as it's a fair bit cheaper than throwing a fuel pump which you probably don't need into the equation.
  16. Devildub_06
    Any more descriptive than that??
  17. Devildub_06
  18. Devildub_06
    Pretty much like that yes. As the pressure created in a cooling system is purely created by heating coolant so that it expands in a sealed system, then any introduction of combustion pressure is going to easily force the coolant away from the engine, last point being the rad. I should think that the coolant pipes aren't hard because it's spat a load out again? (Read as before your last drive of the car). And yes assuming it's a 1.8 8 valve, from memory is quite a nice one to do (just make sure you're head's flat). But why go to all that bother when you have.....a VR6 lump lmao!!
  19. Devildub_06
    its well looked after Didn't mean to insinuate it wasn't looked after, but it's usually simple things that people overlook that make all the difference, Personally i'd ditch the bosch plugs. Never had nothing but issues with Bosch and Champion plugs over the years with various motors, i'm NGK every time. BTW I notice you're slightly down on compression, have a cylinder leakage test done, that'll tell you exactly where you're losing out.
  20. Devildub_06
    When was your last service?
  21. Devildub_06
    I'm still concerned about the hard cooling pipe and throwing all it's coolant out. It almost seems in this case that the thermostat is out of play (Due to pressure build up, which then cause bed circulation), and so the faster you go, essentially the more air your radiator sees and thermostat gauge feeds back accordingly. Is it still mucking about when you fill the coolant up, it really shouldn't be, and headgaskets on these aren't incredibly bad to do.
  22. Devildub_06
    Have you killed it yet?? Go on, the VR6 is waiting (6)
  23. Devildub_06
    I've always used Armour All Tyre Foam, funky as anything. Spray on, tyres go white and foamy, leave 10 minutes and turns the tyres black as the hat and shiny as a whistle (though you may need to wipe residue off wheels depending on your aim, but wipes off easily) Lasts really well in the rain too, and it's cheap as chips lol!
  24. Devildub_06
    Does it only stutter when warm? The wandering idle when cold may well be the idle air bypass valve which is getting a bit gunked up (clean it out and see if it makes a difference). I'd also start by making sure the air filter was clean and that the MAF is clean too.
  25. Devildub_06
    My thought would be that the wire from the oil pressure switch has been disconnected or severed. Oil pressure switches are closed when the engine is not running (to make the light switch on) and are opened by oil pressure to make it switch off. So worth checking that. If the wire does appear to be connected, remove the wire, turn the ignition on and get someone to look at the dash lights when you touch it to earth, this should hopefully light up the oil light. Can't remember what the oil light does on a well vr6 when starting (help please?) but it sounds like the flashing light is a no pre
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