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rigs

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Everything posted by rigs

  1. My old car: Mk2 VR6 OBD1 268 cams 14.39 @ 99.75mph
  2. Fit the head, inlet and wiring etc... from the old engine to the new block and have a 2.9 obd2?
  3. If the car drives normally without overheating then the water pump is most likely fine.
  4. I could be the cap not holding the pressure in. When the engines hot and you turn it off the pressure builds for a short while. I doubt vagcom will show any codes for coolant temperature / pressure etc... Could be wrong though.
  5. Well, you've bought it so it makes no difference... but... That gauge requires you to read it to find out whats going on. Some others give you obvious visual indicators that you can see out of the corner of your eye. e.g. my AEM one has a sweeping LED indicator as well as digital value which goes to green when fueling is rich, yellow when neutral and red when lean. Means you can get a decent idea of what's going on out of the corner of your eye. Fuelings only really important when you're flat out and in a vr6 turbo I'd rather be looking at the road whilst doing that! Mine's mounted at the bott
  6. That'll be your problem then. If the thermostate is stuck shut your radiator won't be getting hot so the sensors probably fine. Presumably your car overheats if you leave it standing? I'll state the obvious just in case: Dont drive it until you fix the thermostat unless you fancy doing a headgasket too.
  7. The magical disappearing lambda probe! I use an AEM UEGO all in one gauge. Was about £140 I think - looks pretty and does the job.
  8. HELLLOOOOOOOO. It's the one in the bloody radiator. Stick a bit of wire across the pins on the plug on radiator - if the fans start your sensor is buggered.
  9. The one in the rad controls the first and second speed of the fan. The sensor in the water housing controls the 3rd speed.
  10. Ditto. Near £1000 for a few extra torques for a little bit of the rev range?!? You can get a proper head, cams and map for that if you know the right people! Hell, these days it doesn't cost much more than that to supercharger it!
  11. My T3/4 69 makes 0.6 bar (limited) at 2500... Cheap too.
  12. Check the temperature sensor in the radiator.
  13. Doubt it... There are loads of tricks to move the engine + box around to get access without having to remove them.
  14. If you have fuel and spark it's not the crank sensor, When the ecu sees the crank sensor reading that the engine is turning it turns on the fuel pump and coilpack.
  15. "How do I fix a wire?" You'll be asking how to change a light bulb next! Get a similar bit of wire, cut out the bad bits from the existing loom and join the new wire in - do it properly with a soldering iron and some proper shielding (i.e. NOT black tape)
  16. Try and borrow a coil pack from another known working car. They only take 5 minutes to swap... Low coolant temp when on the move but normal when sat still is probably your thermostat being stuck wide open - get a new one (v cheap and an easyish change)
  17. There aren't *that* many things vagcom doesn't pick up on. If the ecu has a chance in hell of being able to spot something wrong then vagcom (even the shareware version - thats all I use) will most likely pick it up. "The sparks a bit weak" its got no chance with. "Wire X is shorted to wire Y cos its full of water" the ecu has a decent chance with. The shareware version lists all fault codes and gives you measuring blocks readings up to block 25... which covers all the majors sensors anyway.
  18. Vagcom it. If there's a short somewhere or a sensor out it'll tell you.
  19. With a pressue gauge on one of the nipples on the fuel rail...
  20. Check your fuel pressure then?
  21. It's the housing the oil filter screws in to.... Front of engine near bottom
  22. rigs

    Torque

    BHP = Torque * RPM So to increase power you either increase RPM or increase torque. More BHP at a particular engine speed requires a proportional increase in torque.
  23. Coolers dont take all that much and you've got a lot of safety in the oil capacity (it's about a litre between the max and min marks on the dipstick) Mine takes well under 6 litres with a 19 row cooler. Put 5 litres in, check the level. Top it up till it's at/near max on the stick. Run it for a few seconds. Turn it off and check it again. Top up until at/near max. If you're super paranoid/careful then you can fill the cooler with as much oil as possible before fitting it. But it's a pita...
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