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Nerih

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Everything posted by Nerih

  1. wow i'd love to see some pics of your track car m8.
  2. vf offer a v1 or v2 i think too, the main differences (if not the charger) for the stage 1 kits are vf - stock injectors - 250bhp advertised c2 - big injectors, prewelded sump, dual tensioner, billet maf housing - 280bhp advertised mate, if you consider that the advertised bhp for a vr6 is 174 (if its more, then fine, your actual bhp will ALSO be higher when charged) and you take the vf kit, 76BHP for about 1500 quid (if bought in the states, we pay thru the nose for stuff here), and the c2 will give you 106BHP more ok the numbers are small, until you realise the percentage increases, the vf k
  3. if LHD isnt a problem, buy the EIP kit my friend, its tried and tested! (doh i think that is an EIP kit) im sure the turbo guys will have my head for this, but when the turbo spools up, it places alot of stress on your engine and gear box, it's well known that turbo's can produce more bhp, but you will spend alot longer maintaining a highly 'tuned' car like that. cheaper to go supercharged, and c2 will be offering almost 400 bhp soon too. --- actually after looking at the kit, its not a bad deal, turbo's sound frigging sweet too, im guessing the stage 1 has a dump valve (opposed to a diverter
  4. Nerih

    TDi

    diesels are made from solid iron blocks right? so im guessing they are pretty god damn strong and can take high boost pressures, so im reckoning they could make a sweet amount of power on stock compression ratio's. but dont rely on me, i have no clue about diesels.
  5. nice car , 2nd pic doesnt work, thats an aftermarket exhaust, what make is it?
  6. just go the scrappy and get an old black dash, that way you can see how it comes out on a crap car before you have ago on yours .
  7. 195 is a smaller width tyre, why would you want to go for that? reduce handling and grip...(i think 195 is smaller width i cant remember tbh) 205/45/r15 = win.
  8. yeah apparently the mondeo man is now bmw 3 series man.
  9. look damn good on your skyline rob, you should buy them for yourself! oh yeah, they roxxors!
  10. and here was me fighting you with a screwdriver trying to stop you from hammering them in to place hehehe nah they work fine tho...they are black vw ones!
  11. red beru vw ones are pretty good too, my black leads have seen better days, probably becuase of all the pulling out's ive had to do over the last few weeks heh.
  12. could be your pads are worn out and your on to the backing plate? could be your wheel nuts are loose (craggsy will atest to how my wheels used to clank and crack before i had the short bolts fitted) discs could be warped? i dunno about this one, usuallywarped discs, youll feel MAJOR pedal vibration, not generally clunking sounds. wheel bearings? yep could be these (but try the other checks for simpel tihngs like wheel bolts and brake pads first m8)
  13. i'd go for black on your headlights (the backing) it looks so classy, i'm going to mod my lights to black backs, might as well buy them black to start with m8.
  14. gearbox, as many forged internals as you can afford, head spacer to reduce compression ratio, and i'd buy water injection for fun...(also think of buying a black diamond clutch too lol) i only say this after talking to pete, doing this ENSURES you will be boosting for years and years to come (and thashing it wont break it). you get close to 300bhp from the c2 stage1....i'd recommend it, only because its just under the gearbox destruction threshold . and since i'm now charged, i can say its WORTH IT, BUY BUY BUY!
  15. yeah, i mean if you become a member, you are supporting this website and contributing to its upkeep, i think all registered members should pay m8, (make vr6 verrry rich hehe), since we inidiscriminantly give out tips and hints, regardless if people are so tight they cant afford a 10 quid donation to a club that keeps their car running .
  16. id go for the v1 vortech...z-eng is fine if ur gonig second hand, but if you want upgradability (high boost) then v1.....lol .
  17. mines the same, runnign 1028*1024, and i'll take a screenshot, hold on. www.amin.cc/images/desktop.jpg (not embedded due to large picture size).
  18. so from this thread, we have decided 1. if you're buying new, buy a vortech based kit 2. if you're buying s/h, a zr2 Z-engineering charger is good. I think the key is zr2, (is that the 3rd generation charger?), which has a bigger resevoir and different pulley (plagerised this from the library lol).
  19. wait, i'll find the thread about them, lol i think im right about the z-engineering kit, unless its another charger... http://www.gti-vr6.net/library/engine/Z_charger_death.html (s.c bearing failure - this thread really describes how you should get the later design charger) http://www.gti-vr6.net/library/engine/Z_charger_pulley_prob.html (waterpump bearing failure due to tension) http://www.gti-vr6.net/library/engine/Eurotech_vs_AMS_vs_Z_Eng_superchargers.html (comparison of z-engineering with vortech, describes how you get lower charger temp with engine oil & less power) i must say many o
  20. z-engineering kits have a bad reputation if they arent serviced correctly (as per the gti-vr6 library), i'm guessing you have one......so i'll continue , oiless bearings, poor power output (240 bhp), i mean do it properly, get a vortech with the ability to go to much higher power outputs and piece of mind becuase you've a mechanical device running on ur engine oil (and if its good neough for ur internals, its good enough for ur charger)...i personally wouldnt buy the z-engineering kit considering the small price hike for the vf one (700 quid more lol)... vortech is a better charger....and u pa
  21. one day i want to be as smart as kevhaywire. p.s i can tell you've had a bitching time with your charger install hehehe.
  22. looking for a charger under 2k, means your limited to secondhand market, and since most people will sell their car with the charger on it, your outta luck.....just be weary of the z-engineering kits.....also, www.carpi.ch is the ONLY place i know where u can still buy z-engineering kits... 1 thing you HAVE to remember, is power doesnt come cheap, if you buy a second hand charge you will probably need to have it reconditioned before putting in your car......they should be done every 15k, although i know people who have had them serviced at 50k.... nothing is cheap, sorry m8. (and i've just boug
  23. removing pads requires a caliper compression tool, available at any good automotive store.
  24. you know something, my car doesnt like it when its cold, it does feel a bit hesitant when when really cold, i always thought it was becuase the o2 sensor hadnt kicked in and the car was running in closed loop mode, so any large accelerations wouldnt be liked. My car does this, i just dont accelerate very hard until she's warm, and i dont take it over 2500rpm until she's warm either.... try not to give more than 60% throttle until its warm, it'll stop the juddering.
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