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tandino

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Everything posted by tandino

  1. tandino
    Heres another 'Moody' pic with the polished 7 and 8x16" Design 90's fitted 8o)
  2. tandino
    Konigsorts are roughly half way down their travel height wise.... It seems any lower and the bumpstop will be in compresion permanenetly - therefore the shock will not be doing its job properly. Headlights im not sure about - for the time being they will be staying as ive laid out rather alot recently - perhaps ill start a new trend of keeping stock headlights 8o) Pete
  3. tandino
    I had the very same problem years ago on my Mk1 Avo's (piece of crap they were x) ) - basically Ally lockrings and steel shock bodies are about the worst possibly chemical corrosion problem going!. I had to get a big old pipe wrench clamped round the lockring and with with plenty of PlusGas just keep on trying to move the lockrings... You've got to be quite brutal and in some ways your better off doing it with them on the car to get them initially free'd up as you have something to lever against - im not sure a bench vice would hold against the force i had to use to get mine free'd up..... If
  4. tandino
    Would have fitted my design 90's but the plonker i bought the Rh adapters from German ebay decided that 5x112 pcd = 5x130 pcd ~ - bought some new ones now so should be Porsche'd up tomorrow Front fogs are wide euro fogs which i bought at Gti Festival - look much cleaner than the fussy stock fogs dont you think?? Pete. Pics:- [ Edited ]
  5. tandino
    If you want a quick 1/4 mile car dont buy a heavy front wheel drive car - period.... What im trying to say is a SC equipped VR6 is not going to highlight the difference on a 1/4 mile strip where traction in the first and second is a balancing act - a stock VR6 can put all its grunt down in the lower gears whereas a SC equipped car will have to balance power over traction and hence will possibly be slower in the first 1/8th mile than a stock car... My Saab which i have just sold was running over 240bhp at the front wheels and was a right headache to pull away at anything more than a snails pace
  6. tandino
    Ah yes but have you looked closely at your leather seats?? - they are not full leather at all - merely the seat facings are leather - ie just the centre sections that your backside and back come into contact with. The side bolsters and the middle section of the rear bench are plastic/synthetic leather look... Perhaps this is what VW meant when saying it was 'part leather' ?! Pete.
  7. tandino
    Well ive got some Polished Design 90's for my VR6 Highline - im just waiting for some RH hub adapters to arrive and then ill be fitting them with my Konigsport suspension possibly this weekend depending on arrival of the adapters.. Ill take some pics when its all together Pete.
  8. tandino
    Ill start a thread in the 'Group Buys' forum - any interested parties add your name to the list and ill see what prices i can get for different quantities ordered.... Pete.
  9. tandino
    No its just a remover/installer for the leads themselves... Plugs once the leads are off are quite accessible with a rachet and wobble bar extension - just go steady undoing them !dodge Pete.
  10. tandino
    Yep - im a bleeding great show off me , On a serious note like the others have said if you have a new set of leads to go on the it wont matter if you damage the old ones whilst removing them - you can remove the inlet manifold plastic cover to get accesss to the rear bank of plugs which makes things easier! Pete. [ Edited Tue Jun 29 2004, 02:50PM ]
  11. tandino
    I bought the Snap-on tool the other day and i have to say its worth its weight in gold - lead removal is very easy and the tool allows you to push the leads back on until you hear the 'click'... Price inc delivery was just over £40 - if like me you value good tools for the job then its worth buying. Pete.
  12. tandino
    Two blocks of wood should do it....
  13. tandino
    Just want to bring this thread back up again.... Is there any definative answers on where to get these from and for how much?? Ive got a set of Desn 90's just begging to go on 8o) Pete.
  14. tandino
    Check fuel pump relay and note the temperature of it... Common failure point... Pete.
  15. tandino
    I'd be up for a group buy - either Supersprint or Miltek, either one will do me! Any more interest - add your name to this thread! Pete. [ Edited Sat Jun 26 2004, 03:25PM ]
  16. tandino
    Blue smoke on the overun doesnt neccesarily mean piston rings - more likely that it is valve guides/stem seals. Blue smoke under hard acceleration would more than likely be rings...... Sounds like you have possibly a knackered top end more than anything else. As for the other engine you have - is it still in the car?? - wet and dry compression tests will give you some kind of idea how good it is - other than that it might pay to remove the head to get a look at the bores,valve guides,head casting itself before fitting to the car... Ive fitted a supposed low mileage specialist company supplied
  17. tandino
    Well im on the slippery slope down and once my Saab is sold i will be fitting a new system to the VR6 as the original has the outer skin going on the middle silencer box (not blowing yet though)... Where is the cheapest UK supplier for either of these systems? Any photo's of each system fitted to the car would be appreciated - ideally i want the oval/letterbox style pipe. Thanks in advance and all that 8o) Pete.
  18. tandino
    Have you tried running a wire directly from the battery positive to the a/c compressor - ie bypass all switches to see if it kicks in??? Pete.
  19. tandino
    Dont know the ins and the outs of the golf A/C system (yet) but there a usually a few switches you can manually bridge to see if its a switch problem before giving in the ghost and going to a specialist. On top of the reciever/dyer is a presure switch which will cut power to the a/c clutch if the system presure drops below a certain level - bridge this if it kicks the a/c in its low pressure in the system. Other switches are usually one on the evaporator or thereabouts to stop the evaporator from freezing - ie the a/c operating continuosly until it reaches 0'C - test this switch by doing the s
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