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acf8181

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Everything posted by acf8181

  1. there'll be a leak...sooner or later it'll suddenly dump the load of coolant and you'll have the water light start flashing at you. stop immediatly or it'll be bye bye head gasket. it could be anywhere, so far i've had mine leak from the thermostat housing, and the aux water pump (whihc came apart eventually). i've also known others have the heater matrix go, and one thats leaked from the straight plastic tube that runs along the front of the block. go to a garage and get a coolant pressure test done to find out where its coming from, as if you're only leaking slightly its quite hard to find w
  2. they are beyond crap! i heard they were about to get shut down for false advertising (by claiming that the valve would increase bhp and its been proved it can't)
  3. mines too low now. i prefered the ride hieight on my o.e. shocks and avo springs, the bilstein kit has lowered it more, and i keep hitting stuff.
  4. if they are o.e. ones they have to be put in with the special tools...£220 seems a good price to me. the aftermarket ones push in by hand, and don't require alligning. but to be honest, i'd recommend getting o.e. ones. my powerflex were fine with standard shocks, but now i have a kit it all seems a bit harsh.
  5. thats whats happened to mine...but i've sorted a new one for a good price. i know markgolf is after one ingham, drop him a PM.
  6. if you can get on MSN messenger i have a pdf i can send you (acf8181@hotmail.com)
  7. yeah, sounds like the ISV needs a clean...if its an obd1 car of course (obd2's don't have it!). so upto and inc m plate. sometimes cars can drive themselves at upto 1500rpm if they're really cold...its the auto choke (or ecu doing the same thing)
  8. we're back to this hose situation again....yes, the plastic t-piece doesn't exist anymore. your options are paying the £70 for the whole hose, paying about £50 for a direct replacement hose (yes, samco are cheaper than vw hoses), going to a ford parts place and seeing if the same hose from a galaxy v6 is cheaper (galaxy vr's are in fact vw vr6's, and ford parts cost less), or finding that hose at a breakers or second hand. i'm after a new aux water pump at the mo as mine has fallen apart...i'd ignore it till it gives up completely.
  9. also, if the hall sender gives up completely the car runs on 'SAFE' mode...as mine is. basically the ecu drops to levels it knows the engine can take.
  10. yeah, you gonna get another? or are you after a change?
  11. my weird/light steering was wheel allignment. if you think it may be the rack, i know theres one on ebay at the mo.
  12. you'd really know if the hall (cam) sender was screwed...the car has a lot less bhp. i know this, cause i have that prob at the mo! it does have the huge vibration around 2000rpm as well. i'd start by cleaning the ISV...easy to do. then i'd be looking at the coilpack. EDIT: but yours is a dizzy if i'm right, so it can't be that! [ Edited Tue Aug 31 2004, 03:16PM ]
  13. bumpers have to be slotted on from the front of the car...if you know what i mean. is connector really long and thin? if so, it supposed to connect to the MAF. think theres also another connector down there thats shorter and fatter but can't think of what it is at the mo.
  14. yeah, the rainsports are excellent too...but i find the blocks move around slightly more than the rallye's, so they are slightly better in the wet, but slightly worse in the dry. but both are top notch.
  15. i'm still sticking to my uniroyals...think they're perfect for the vr6. also got a set fitted to my girlies polo...i love the progressiveness of them, especially on the polo with soft suspension, mucho fun (don't tell the girlie!)
  16. well, if the edl is intermittantly cutting out then the pads will still wear evenly. see if there's a pattern...does the car only feel strange when the abs light is on? if so, that proves its cause the edl keeps switchin off. sort the abs prob and it should go away, theoretically.
  17. alwasy thought they were tacky myself.
  18. unplug the leads from the coilpack, and leave them connected to the plugs...don't pull them off the plugs unless you have the special tool or they may break. then undo the two spline head bolts and remove the rear lead guide. then you will be able to see the ISV clearly.
  19. acf8181

    Rusty VR's

    i've just noticed that theres a small spot starting on my tailgate...doh! anyone see a tornado red vr6/gti tailgate at a breakers in A1 condition let me know.
  20. my fav's are uniroyal rallye540's. they excel in longitudal grip (traction) especially in wet weather...which is really needed on a vr6. they have above average lateral grip, but more importantly have a very progresive breakaway. i bought a set of 4 from bracknell tyre and battery company for about £230. toyo proxes T1-S are probably the best gripping tyre, laterally, in the dry but not so good in wet...also, my friends who use them seem to go through a lot of tyres. they've also just been superceded with the T1-R which appears to be better wearing, and better in the wet...but no where near as
  21. first of i'd check the wheel alignment...mine felt awful after i'd fitted the suspension cause it was way off (it was off the grid on the computer alignment guage actually!) you are right that if the abs system shuts down you also loose the edl...so could theoretically be that. oh, and just to make things even more compicated you can loose the edl without the abs, and without the warning light going on! [ Edited Sun Aug 29 2004, 10:49PM ]
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