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Testing123 last won the day on May 20 2022

Testing123 had the most liked content!

About Testing123

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  • Birthday 05/29/1999

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  1. haha yes my step dad said to me why don't you just stuff the hole with newspaper and paint black underseal over it (as that is what he used to do back in the day!)
  2. Great work @tuffty. I was just about to write looking up hobby weld for some gas as I caught up on your thread and saw the disposable bottle but see you already have. Like you I bought a load of gear and started fixing the rust myself - can be quite saisfying and the confidence you gain in yourself and ability to keep an older car on fine fettle on the body makes you feel unstoppable on your projects! Apparently 0.8 wire is better than 0.6 for automotive but have massive supplies of 0.6 so haven't tried myself. When i was fixing my mk3 i found some MOT style patches which were litr
  3. 2.9 VR6 OBD1 Corrado 263 Cams Head was refubed when cams fitted 150k bottom end Stealth remap Miltek non res Its had all sensors replaced with new quality items - Bosch etc I am really interested to compare this to a Schrick VGI car but been through the thread and could only see @VR6Pete in the beginning which made simliar numbers, but peak torque a little lower at 195 ib/ft came in 400rpm lower and I assume more torque overall in the lower rev ranges but would be good to see it on a graph to compare. I'm just looking at where the next best rou
  4. Hi, Had the car a long time now - Corrado VR6, new chains, head refurb and had 263 cams put in a few years ago now. It transformed the midrange and driveability of the car - 219hp & 211 ib/ft torque. Just wondering whether it is worth searching out a Schrick as the next stage for the car? Understand it should really be matched with 268 cams. Any one got power / torque graphs to share on the setup? Any other routes, don't fancy a turbo but supercharged maybe? Is that the Vortech v2 kit?
  5. Hey all, Looking to tap into some expertise knowledge. I've been researching various threads online and made maintenance changes to my car to try and get the bottom of my slightly rough idle and warm starting issue. History of the car 95 Corrado VR6, 150k, full service history (serviced every year). No error codes (except ABS = pump) Symptoms Idle is intermittently (more so than not) a bit rough. VCDS sees it fluctuating around 40rpm say 640-680rpm on idle. Attached is the VCDS log, this reading was done a few months ago but idle d
  6. They washed it down with a power washer, allowed to dry, then steam. Next day applied treatment to rust areas (mine was pretty solid and only had surface on the jacking points) the dinitrol applied. I could imagine your drive might get messy but it is definitely do-able at home. If I had more space I would have done it.
  7. It cost £460. It included a clean, rust treatment (converter) and then dinitrol. I went for the most expensive option so it’s been blown in all box sections. It looks brand new underneath!! I took it to a place In Hoddesdon that is registered as a dinitrol specialist. They work on landrovers and aren’t a bodyshop but do have a dedicated booth for this sort of work. I considered doing it myself but couldn’t face the mess!!
  8. Swapped fuel relay and installed a one way valve on the fuel line near pump. Yet to see if it improves my hot start issue as it got dark and my headlight switch broke. Maybe I should have got something newer!! My idle is still a bit rough - feel vibration in the cabin but no bouncing on tacho. Not sure what the issue is, hopefully injectors or pump rather than something mechanical .... it’s not using oil or water or being smokey.
  9. Thanks buddy, gives me comfort it’s protected but now I don’t want to get it dirty ?.
  10. I would say you'd have to love to car and want to keep it to get the bodywork done. Unless you know someone that little lot could tot up to a couple of grand and you'll probably not get it back on the sale price and time soon. Sadly it's worth a lot more in bits. Unfortunately a lot of them will be broken and that might mean those that love them and kept the sweet might have a valuable car on their hands. Maybe. They'll at least have a fantastic driving cool car whatever happens to prices! I have one and have spent £2k on getting bodywork bits sorted. I will likely sink
  11. Ugghh and now it's slightly lowered on the B12 kit I feel it needs some spacers to push the wheels out a little. Spending never ceases (but I'd be bored if there wasn't a to do list!)
  12. Next job is to tackle the hot start issue. Starts on circa 3 crank when cold but takes 8-12 cranks when warm and left for 15-45ish mins. The idle can be intermittently rough (just a minor vibration you can feel but can't see on the tacho - VAG-COM sees it as something like 640-680 on idle. So far I have: Read codes (cam shaft sensor), replaced cam sensor, crank sensor, new FPR valve, new thermostat, new thermostat sensors, new rad fan switch (unrelated), new sparks, leads, coilpack (cracked) and fuel filter. I'm left with fuel pump and injectors - feel free to chip in
  13. Update - car undersealed with Dinitrol and any rust treated. Car wasn't that bad underneath but wanted this done to keep it sweet.Bilstein B12 kit fitted (need better pics as my drive is a slope). I had new rubber bits and top mounts fitted too and a Hunter alignment following. The car is is completely different to drive and much more comfortable vs the old standard stuff which was pretty knackered to be fair.All work done by CSK Automotive is Hoddesdon. They are a Land Rover specialist but work on other cars. Chris is a great bloke and is into the VAG scene - has a lovely wrapped Audi R8. Bef
  14. Jobs done over the last week:SunroofNew Sunroof mech fitted along with Stuart's B4 moonroof. I cleaned and serviced the mech with lube as much as I could without disassembly. The moonroof is sitting a touch too low at the back so need to fettle a bit more, at the moment it is pushed to the top of the adjusters though so need to figure out how to get the whole thing higher. Let me know any tips.ABSABS sensor brake position sensor fitted - fault cleared - all good.Sill have a semi intermittent ABS fault with the pump but have a spare to fit at some point. Probably get my mechanic to do it as I h
  15. Today I have taken out my brake position sensor as I was getting a consistent fault with my code reader. These sensors are obsolete now and they usually fail because the solder dries up on the points mated to the circuit board. Sure enough mine had dried up. There were two hard bits to this job:1. Getting the circlip off the sensor so I could remove it from the car. You'll need a mirror if it's positioned like mine.2. Taking the sensor apart without wrecking the outer casing.The procedure:1. Pump the brake pedal a few times to relieve the vacuum in the master cylinder.2. Remove bits from engin
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