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MK4motionVR6

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Everything posted by MK4motionVR6

  1. From the album: MK4motion 24v VR6

    Took this pic just after reinstalling from a part rebuild project, all done by meeeeee!!
  2. Welcome buddy.. I know the 4mo VR6 inside out so if there's anything you wanna know, modifying or otherwise just holla.!! I'm not always on hear but I do check in every couple of weeks to see what's cooking... Anyway your in good hands with this bunch of fanatical OCD weirdoes lol, so you'll pretty much always get a response from one of us[emoji106]
  3. Hey guys I've not been on hear for a while.. Anyway I've rebuilt my 4mo & have been blasting around in her for a couple of months now, there's still a few things I've gotta sort out, one of the most recent things I've done is shim the gearbox input shaft to cancel out a whining noise!! This is a must do for anyone with the 02M box.. So here's a link I found on vw vortex: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6089802-02M-whining-decel-noises-aftermarket-clutch-disengagement-issues-mainshaft-axial-play
  4. Dam work grrrrrr!! We don't want much do we mate, just an obscene amount of cash & a huge fully equipped garage with every single mechanical engineering tool known to man kind... Plus the latest state of the art spraying equipment including oven... Lol... Awww we can but dream I guess!! Anyway back to reality haha! You'll get there mate. Yes it's great driving the beast around again! However I'm already wanting to do more. I'm so aching for a charger set up!! Grrrr I need money!! I thought I'd be happy enough to blip around with it's still being NA, but I keep getting challenged by turbo'
  5. And on that note it's time for me to leave this convo before my head gasket blows!! Fix it or put up with it.... Mk4motionVR6
  6. Can I just point out something here to y'all... You can't expect to own n run an old motor without there being any problems! Fact of the matter is.. Things that get old wear out & don't work as well as they once did (bit like me lol). So here's your choices... You can either try patch things up with the hope of keeping it going so it'll last a little longer & put up with things as they are... Or you can quite your jibber jabber do the job right, get your fecking wallet out & put some money into it, which generally means striping things down & rebuilding stuff properly!! Yes thi
  7. To be honest mate if you want a 20 year old car to run perfectly & not use any oil at all, then you may as well get that lump out strip it down & give her some TLC... At the very least get the head off & change the seals.. It just depends on what it's worth to you. Its most defiantly possible to own an older car with extremely high mileage and have it running like a watch without any major work needed at all, but that would mean it's been used properly & maintained to a good standard throughout its life.. I've had cars with nearly 200k on the clock & run perfectly with hard
  8. Glad to hear you're cracking on with it dude.. I'm looking forward to seeing the new pics.. My back is getting back to normal slowly & I've managed to take the 4mo for a blast.. She's going well & loud haha!! Few more tweaks n things I wanna alter plus get it remapped to get the most out of it however, I want be happy until I've got it turbo'd. Mk4motionVR6
  9. Apart from the compression testing that is... Mk4motionVR6
  10. Then it's sounds as though the seals are quite badly worn mate... When you take it for a run the higher revolutions of the engine are burning the oil off quicker than its bypassing the seals... And upon idling after a run, it may take quite a while to reappear however, leave it idle long enough & I'm sure it'll reappear!! Mk4motionVR6
  11. I have read above buddy & as I've tried to explain to you.. Your symptoms are that of worn valve stems/seals, because the blue smoke becomes less as the engine warms up!! When cold everything is contracted thus causing oil to bypass the valve seals.... ("Worn valve seals"). Mk4motionVR6
  12. Hey bud... Sounds like the typical symptoms of worn valve seals. The valve seals get hard over time especially if different oils have been used i.e. Semi synthetic/fully synthetic or mineral oil... Lack of use & long periods of an engine being idle can also contribute to internal engine seals wearing out sooner than that of a well used engine. Eventually the oil in the head seeps it's way down the valve stem & into the cylinders where it'll pool in the seat of the closed valves & drip into the cylinder of the open valves, so on initial start up you'll see blue smoke as the bypassed
  13. Here's one of my motor just put back together.. I plan on doing a build thread soon... [emoji106] Mk4motionVR6
  14. Hey dan sorry to here of this buddy... You must have been gutted man!! I've been following your progress from time to time on here n facebook. So where you at now dude? You still persevering with this project.. You've done so much I hope you've not given up & look forward to seeing a finished project your happy with [emoji6] I've just got my 4motion back on the road after a year of tinkering & about with her bits n peaces lol.. Flew through the MOT couple of weeks back! Unfortunately I've not had the pleasure of using it yet as I've been recovering this last week from putting my back
  15. I bought my misses a cheap little Peugeot 106 for her nipping around & about locally!! She's happy enough with that.. If & when she needs to go on an actual run somewhere, she'll use the golf... Apart from that, it's my beast[emoji12] Mk4motionVR6
  16. Don't mean to be rude or owt... But why don't you just buy the misses a cheap knock about.. For the use she actually has of the car, seems a bit daft using what will be a very powerful motor for school runs etc... [emoji11] Mk4motionVR6
  17. New cap!!! The caps are calibrated to a certain psi & can deteriorate with age... Try a new cap 1st as your cheapest option... If that doesn't work you may have pump on its way out.. Mk4motionVR6
  18. Good call parki... I was just about to ask the very same question...? Mk4motionVR6
  19. It's up to you guys.. But the best one on the market to use is the VW stuff... The others are pretty good, but they take much longer to dry & are of a thinner composite to the VW sealant. If you go to TPS you'll get it for around £18, or just be a little cheeky & ask nicely at the dealer for some discount... They may give it to you for £19 trade [emoji16] Mk4motionVR6
  20. Here's the part No. for the correct sealant from VW/TPS only use this on machined surface alloy sumps! It's specified for use throughout the VAG vehicles, as it's sensor friendly!! But take care not to over do it when applying, you only need a 2-3mm beed around the matting surface.. If you apply too much, the excess may break off inside the sump & clog the oil pick up strainer.. Part No. D 176-404-A2 comes in 80mg tube. Here's a link to an online manual.. http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/gti/v6-2.8l_(bdf)/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/engine/engine_lubrication/oil_pan_engine/component
  21. Those parts are mainly for the 24v but some are interchangeable with the 12v... Mk4motionVR6
  22. Here's a link to a list in my Dropbox with part No's for some bits I've bought & catalogued.. https://www.dropbox.com/s/zlzb510gxzjsl6w/Coolant.%20oil%20filter%20housing.%20engine%20block.%20secondary%20air%20pump..xlsx Mk4motionVR6
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