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Posts posted by cactusjackslade
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No probs, keep us posted
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Had the bonnet up on mine today and the earth cable coming from the stater bolt is the main earth going to the battery terminal..
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I have read on here about someone managing to take just the ecu off without taking the whole pump off. It's bolted to the bottom of the pump with 4 or 6 very small star or E torx bolts and a couple of electrical plugs. It would be tight getting it past the brake pipes but iv defiantly seen it on here that someone has managed it. Its a job iv got to do myself soon so let me know how you get on...
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Usually when you get sudden or sporadic multiple faults like that it is the ecu bolted to the bottom of the abs pump that is to blame. I've got the same problem with mine at the moment. Just need the time to get the ecu off and speak to bba reman to recondition it or a replacment.
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Yes mine defiantly has an earth wire coming off that starter bolt, can't ember off the top of my head where it goes but will have a look the weekend when I have the bonnet up and let you know. You may find an improvement with a larger battery hooked up but from what you have explained the starter motor is lazy. I'd replace both battery and starter for peace of mind and many worry free start ups lol.
Will report back over weekend regarding starter bolt earth....
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It does sound like you have two problems to me. The starter motor shouldn't get that hot ( unless you have been cranking the engine over continually for ages) which you haven't been. Starter motors tend to get hot like that when they are lazy / sticking and really struggling to turn the engine over, at the same time it puts a huge load on the battery drawing excessive current, and from the sounds of it that battery isn't upto it. I'd say with a new starter motor and a good quality powerful battery you will see a big difference.
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There is a lot of different opinions as to when this pump should be running and if it's needed at all. After much reading and revision I managed to get to the bottom of it.
The vr cylinder head also acts as an exhaust manifold for the front three cylinders and so tents to run hot. The secondary pumps job is to assist the circulation off coolant around the head during running and for a short period after engine switch off to stop any localised overheating. the purpose of the after run feature is to keep the coolant circulating around the head while the hot engine cools. Without this the coolant would be sitting in a red hot head without circulation causing localised overheating in your head. So it is a good thing to have working correctly.
The after run pump should run with ignition on and then for roughly 10 minutes after you switch ignition off IRRELEVENT of temperature or even if the engine has been started. It's a set sequence. I found My pump the same as many other vrs out there today only ran with ignition on and stopped as soon as I switch the ignition off. I have to say I never noticed a problem and it stopped like this for a few years. However when I added a turbo to the engine things were different. A few times after a long run out I pulled on the drive with engine temperatures reading normal. Roughly 3 minutes after switching engine off the water boiled and bubbled in the expansion tank. I could only put this down to the extra heat stored inside the turbo and manifold boiling the coolant inside the head once the main pump driven by the engine stopped.
After a few test I found a faulty fan control module to be the cause of my secondary pump not running for 10 mins after shut off. Once that was replaced its been fine.
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Have had the haldex oil and filter changed, plugged in #31 and sadly the same locking up and bouncing. Some serious creaking from the transfer box region
New controller is my next move, OR grab the controller of mums 4mo and give it a try
Sorry for long delay!
Sorry to hear still no luck.. The oil n filter change was a long shot but worth a try.. No problem, let us know what happens after fitting a different controller.
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Of the engine?
That's the only one I've got of it at the minute lol in the boot of my passat
That install looks dodgy to me....... Lol
- damian8588, daveyboy and Bealieboy
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The sp 263 cams were originally designed for use in turbo applications. People started fitting them to naturally aspirated engines and found they were great there also. I had sp 263 cams n/a and produced 206 bhp with map. The engine felt more Torquay and revved up much quicker. Was a great mod. I have recently gone turbo and can confirm they perform excellently now also. 263's are the ones to go for.
- damian8588 and Bealieboy
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Any updates or news on the 4wd?
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Don't think you can see the cams on a vr6 through the oil cap.. Best sure fire way of being 100% is to do a compression test.
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I got mine from vw Tps at Wolverhampton. They are red. Been about 12 months back now though. Hope u can still get them.
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Sounds like it could be way over fueling? What do the plugs look like? Black sooty? Quick thing to try if not already done disconnect the maf and see if it improves... Faulty lambdas can cause fueling probs too.. Try disconnecting also it turn with the maf..I hate Kseal its horrible stuff. I'd be flushing that crap out once i got it running right... Keep us updated mate.
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I had similar happen to me recently with a brake upgrade set. Upon delivery the box was burst wide open and some bolts from the kit missing.. I should have refused to sign and accept it really but I had been after the kit for a while... Really pisses you off when your belongings are treated like that... Collect as much evidence as poss and challenge the courier.. I hope you get something sorted..
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Pretty sure mine is running 13psi
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Adrian flux are usually ok when it comes to mods.
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Wheeler Dealers....
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