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Vw_owner

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Everything posted by Vw_owner

  1. cheers guys, im almost there on the shell, after the shell though i got to do some welding underneith and re do both front wings thought it would be best to remove the windows, as a previous painter just masked off around the seal, there was a slightly visible hard paint line which would chip easily, and adding more paint to that isnt a good idea, just aswell coz i found some nasty rust forming think the rust was forming because that window had been replaced and the paint was damged from removeing it, the drivers side just seemed more oem like it hadnt been played with, i also found a piece
  2. time to un cover the nasty scabs!! realy wasnt looking forward to this part!!! you cant realy see from these pics but i was realy shocked i thought i was going to have to cut the lot out!! anyway to do a half decent job thought its best i cut the screen out, easier said then done took me and a m8 3hours with a wire saw, it came out almost undamged, but i orderd a replacement screen anyway as this one had a big chip in it! only cost £80!! absolute bargain! it better fit! anyway cleaned everything out ! and it started to reveal a few holes, nothing major but if this would of been left,
  3. cut out the rust bubble on the rear valance, thought while im here i might aswel weld up the badge holes, made a plate to fit just inside of the vw badge recess, smoothed off some rust and a dent which i never knew about smoothed to a certain extent with the help of u-pols powder guide coat.
  4. bye bye roof aerial!! i realy hate aerials and sun roofs!! basicaly all the crap you dont need in a car i hate!! ] one of three rust bubbles which all turned into holes on the arch, in the middle of the rocker panel there was bare filler covered over by spray can paint, im guessing a previous owner had metal work done at somepoint so its down to me to finish it smoothed it all off as best i could this also followed on to the top of the sill inside the door shut where there was a slight rust bubble so i smoothed that out aswell. covered over the sill area with 2k primer then added u-pol
  5. thanks,completly forgot i posted up here , right now i cant sleep so i might aswell post some pics and progress of the rust situation, this past few months iv taken the corrado off the roads to sort ot the rust issues on the main shell, :- rust bubbles above each top corner of windscreen :-rear valance rust bubble + smooth badge holes :- rear ns arch rust bubbles :-tailgate hinge paint split signs of rust :-ns rocker panel re shape and add stone chip finish from a previous unfinished repair. :- delete roof aerial. :-have multiple cups of tea in the process i'll start with the tail gate
  6. glad i read this, it never occured to me that if that seal stops sealing, the coolant could effectively boil and over heat as its open to attmosphere, every time i check my coolant i dont even bother checking that seal! might get a new one for what its worth.
  7. ^ yea it is an aftermarket alarm, i owned the car for a week as i had it given by a m8 who didnt want the hassel of selling it,then i sold it to mr sweeny for the conversion, didnt realise you left that alarm in dude, prety sure the only way to sort this out is to trace all the aftermarket alarm wires back and remove them back to how it should be. and yea i remember you had to to turn ign on then press the button on fob then fire it up, maybe it might work if your not doing it in that order? , damn must be an absolute ball ache!!!!!!
  8. im not 100% but have a look what your original car had it might be on a different frequancy or something idk, to be on the safe side i would swap everything to do with the immobiliser from your original vr6 into the gti. also the gti had an aftermarket alarm which might be tapped into them wires??????
  9. you see the ring thing at the top by the immob box? i wander if thats what the sensor is???? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK3-MK-3-GTI-FULL-LOCK-SET-ECU-TRANSPONDER-LOOK-037-906-025-H-/120803097208?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c206cfa78
  10. looking at this mk4 immobiliser setup, looks like the sensors built into the ingnition barrel, the mk3's might be different? but then they might be similar, have a look if theres a plug going to it, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/97-04-VW-GOLF-MK4-BARREL-KEY-TRANSPONDER-AND-ECU-/300607620292?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45fd9c44c4
  11. not sure if its the same bud but there needs to be a sensor close by the chip in the key for it to read it then send that info back to the ecu and give it the green light to run, strip the old steering colomn trim off the old car and have a good butchers around the ignition barrel to see if theres a sensor looking thingy i think there called immobiliser pickup rings
  12. hi, so the crackiling/poping you get when you de-celerate is from the fuel being burnt in the exhaust? i had this with my old ss exhuast but with my new milltek decat system i dont get the noise much maybe becuase the sound is muffled more,
  13. ahh nightmare, rather you then me lol , i remember on my mk4 golf when my m8 was programming my keys he told me that theres a ring/sensor by the ignition barrel that picksup the signal from the key chip, have you swapped over this sensor from the old car? . one of my options was to remove my key chip and tape it to the sensor that way i didnt have to programme new keys to my ecu but we did it the right way and reprogrammed all my keys together.hope you get this sorted, must be itching to test drive it
  14. unplug the maf and check the connectors, my corrado has a tendancy to let water into this connection, depending on how damp it gets it can kangaroo, rev real low up and down and if its flooded with water it will do the above but the battery light will also come on and cut out unless you hold the throttle down, its un driveable at that point, an easy fix is to blow the water out and squirt wd 40 or something similar after that its mint! so give that a try even if it looks dry as itll do no harm..
  15. hi, im currently preping my scuttle tray for painting so i removed the ecu and it turns out that at some point my ecu has been replaced!! now i dont know if its been replaced with one from a golf obd1 vr6 or from a corrado vr6? im sure the mapping would be different for the 190bhp corrado then a golf and if so im possibly loosing out on some horse's! anyway to tell by the ecu's part #? never mind just searched my ecu part number and its the correct 2.9 ecu, ecu part numbers can be seen here http://www.corrado-club.ca/tech/vwecucodes.htm feel free to delete this thread..
  16. dnno at a guess though undo the bolt in the middle seems like its expanding the bush?? or a realy tight press fit?, hows the conversion comming on? maybe do a search on replaceing these bushs? that should help!!
  17. i would of thought it wouldnt matter aslong as you use the vr6 springs as there rated for the engine weight etc, but then again the shocks damping rate could be rated for the vr6 aswell, if i was you i would try and keep it all vr6, if that isnt an option just use the vr6 springs on the gti shocks and forget about it, there cant be much differance if any in it, plus we get to use the excuse "we live in guernsey" hahaha didnt see post above ^ well atleast you know for sure its ok!
  18. how do you mean? as in you cant re drill the 4 stud wheel to 5stud?
  19. damn this rim is almost perfect!!! only thing is its 4x98 and im prety sure if you tryed re drilling it to 5x100 one of the bolts will foul or you might be able to use one of them bolt holes as its only a few mm out? but best try and find a 5x100 or 5x108 as i know that can be re drilled! http://www.ebay.de/itm/1-Alufelge-Borbet-A-A75630-7-5x16-H2-ET30-KBA41763-/110734093470?pt=Auto_Felgen&hash=item19c8442c9e
  20. ah, they called borbet A 's you idealy want a pair of 5x100 16"x7.5" with an ET of 30, i couldnt find any for love nor money! but what i found was exactly the above dimensions with a pcd of 5x108 and had a bigger centre bore so i had to use spigot rings, then i had A-TEC engineering re drill the pcd to 5x100 {hes over here in low lands road} for £80.00 btw you will need the offset to be 30 because you also need to run spacers on the front for the wheel to clear the caliper. it sounds worse then it is but its worth it, they basicaly stopped makeing them in 5x100 a few years back so there
  21. ah glad to hear it, thought you may have pulled them out by the leads, doesnt mean the leads arent at fault though, when i first got mine the leads needed doing badly! it was driveable but when you put your foot down it kangarood!!
  22. dont think your have to remove the dash at all {i maybe wrong} but if you look in the engine bay of the vr6 you will see where the clutch slave cylinder is{directly behind the clutch pedal in engine bay},its also linked to the brake master cylinder/ fluid resivour by a pipe so your probably have to change that over aswell unless the one in the gti has a connection thats blanked off for it?.{to feed fluid to the clutch slave cylinder} realy cant imagine it to be that hard as both cars will be infront of you so you have everything you need, also you can see exaclty what needs to be swaped over a
  23. main sub frame is just a few bolts,only problem you may encounter is seized bolts, you will also have to change the pedal box over as that gti has a cable clutch and the vr has hydro clutch,
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