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russj249

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Everything posted by russj249

  1. They are pretty expensive from VW, but you can get the same thing from Ford for much cheaper, as its the same setup as on the Ford Galaxy VR6. I think you can get the from TPS too. The valve is on the top left of the engine, from the rocker cover to the intake pipe. Very common to split.
  2. Sorry.. just noticed that you say oil was contaminated too.
  3. Are you sure this isn't just hinge that's come out of the heater matrix and radiator from last time? Drain all the coolant and refill with water, just keep flushing it through.
  4. I'm too young to have/really remember then, but my boss said you can always tell one that's been thrashed if there are 2 cuts in the carpet from the clutch pedal.. the cable was too close to the turbo so when it was driven hard the outer case shrunk and clutch wouldn't operate unless you put it through the floor!
  5. you should sell up and buy a 1 litre' date=' you will get robbed wherever you go, how many no claims you got? [/quote'] Go direct to bell.. I been with them on mine since I was 18 on my vr6, however insurance has gone up loads n last year as standard was only 1000 fully comp for me. I'm 21 now so come down loads. Sounds a lot but I know people paying more on Shitroen Saxo's etc..
  6. Think the camera is making the stainless cable ties look like gaps mate.. but yea agree with the 50% overlap, makes in nice and easy with the wider heat wrap Just noticed in the pic too you have no gloves on Hope you haven't itched your face, or arms, or worse been to the toilet!! Itchy night ahead if you have lol
  7. As a bit of a caution as I can see side cutters in the picture... DO NOT cut the metal cable ties as you go along.. found this out myself, put hand round back of pipe to feel for heat wrap, and there was a sharp bit there, naturally I snatched my hand back and cought the super sharp point of a metal tie that I had already cut. So unless you want stitches across all 4 fingers right on the bends and blood all over the exhaust, leave em till the end
  8. Hope you got gloves on don't notice while you're doing it, but feck me you'll be itchy later lol. Haven't got a pic, but as a tip, I wrap my stuff wet, I put the reel in a shallow bucket of water.. makes it tighter on the metal, can pull it easier and find it easier to work with, and just dries out the same.
  9. Seems eBay has crashed lol I want my spray air freshener!
  10. Go to ford and say you have a Galaxy vr6, I got one for mine for 30 odd quid. Think the part numbers are the same too.
  11. Ah good good.. glad its all sorted. Wonder why it did that though? Must have gone past the stopper or something. At least you know if it does it again, what the problem is, and know to get a new one
  12. Im pretty sure it should be closed as standard. Try blocking the pipe off and see what happens? Pinch the hose and see if revs come down, in theory, if you can completely stop the flow through that, it should die down or cut out.
  13. Hmm.. have you checked for air leaks? Also have you checked the idle control valve to the right of the throttle body? Could be faulty and sticking open. Might be worth dropping it off and giving it a clean out.
  14. It's a kind of buffer for when you let the throttle off fast.. just so it doesn't snap back completely shut.. flick the throttle open and let it go and you'll see it hit that, then do the last few mm slowly.
  15. Yep.. without a doubt.. low boost is just a bolt on thing.. can even run it with no intercooler etc, Obviously you should change injectors to be safe, and have it professionally remapped. Unless you are mechanically minded, and can use a welder, and have all the equipment for any issues or eventualities, I would be very careful starting a turbo project by yourself.
  16. Just a turbo on its own.. Have a look through Jim Potters build thread, then you'll see how much work is involved Don't forget you have to sort out things like lower compression, injectors, intercooler, pipework, exhaust, manifolds, downpipe, fueling, remap... The list goes on and on.
  17. Screenshot UX Trial from market place is pretty good.
  18. I have a chinese gt35r copy if you want one brand new for 150 quid.. i only used it to mark up my manifolds and downpipe for welding them up, didn't fancy dropping the real deal by accident! Have a look at some chinese turbo pics and then decide
  19. As I'm sure everyone will tell you. as it has been covered sooooo many times before... There's a reason my Garrett turbo was £1400 and you can get the whole kit there for half that. Universal, cheap, nasty chinese parts.. google 'chinese turbo fail' and have a look at some pictures!
  20. Glad its all sorted.. was it that little bracket thing that had snapped off?
  21. That 'should' still make the noise with the car jacked up.. Jacking it up shouldn't move the back plate in relation to the disc, however jacking the car up will take the weight off the wheel bearing.
  22. Hmm doesn't sound good.. however definitely do a cylinder leak check, and the water could cross into the oil in the oil cooler too.
  23. Not sure about the 10 to 15bhp bit? maybe with air filter, manifold and remap, or cams too maybe.. The one you want is called 'raceland' they are the best fitment One as far as everyone says, I had one on mine ages ago. Mounts to the standard cat, but if you're doing that, u would have a decat too for a bit of extra flow! Make sure the cat goes back in for MOT though. Also if you buy one of these, you will need to heat wrap the whole thing in glass fibre heat wrap. And also note that on a n/a car, taking some of the back pressure away means you will gain a few extra bhp up top, but you will lo
  24. I had a wheel bearing that did that, however if I put it on the ramp at work and took the car up and spun the wheel, it didn't make the noise.. was very odd.. and that was passenger side too.
  25. Was it a good known working switch you tried. I would remove the switch and use a bridge jumper wire in the plug, basically completely.rule out the switch then.. just put a piece of wire in both terminal where the switch would go to short them out, then see what happens, then with that bridged, you can check down the line further. Definitely no broken wires off the brake light switch? and have you tested the power into the fuseboard at the fuse?
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