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Smuggler

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  1. Smuggler

    MK2 VR6

    Smuggler replied to mashed's topic in The MK2

    Do you have your alternator connector plugged in, the one which shows the battery warning light on the dash? Also did you remove/refit he alternator charging lead, are you certain its in the right place?
  2. Smuggler
    Single wire is for the battery warning light, and i'm not too sure on what the extra plug is for, I replaced one with the same plug but has not given me any problems by not connecting it, mine did come from a sharan or galaxy though so that maybe why, not sure though.
  3. Smuggler
    When it does start does it run ok, run smooth? Coolant sensor would not stop the car from starting though.
  4. Smuggler
    What does it crank like? Does it sound healty and turn over fast, or slowly even after a charge? If it's slowly even after you charged it, then it sounds like either the battery, or alternator, but I wouldn't take any notice of the fault code, that could just be where you've tried starting it and run the battery down. Try and get it started again and measure the charging rate of the alternator, and the voltage at the battery and let us know. I'm wiling to spin the wheel of diagnosis and say a crankshaft position sensor though if they're fine lol, but ya never know.
  5. Smuggler
    I would check the battery first, make sure you have enough voltage, sometimes if you don't then the starter won't even attempt to turn. What happens if you put the headlights on and then try and crank it? As a general rule of thumb, if they flicker then I would say it's the battery, if they don't do anything, then I would start to look at the starter solenoid, relay, and motor, but check the battery with a multimeter if you can, should have between 12 and 12.5v for a good battery.
  6. Smuggler
    Hi guys, Some of you may remember this happened to me a good 7-8 months ago now so it's no biggie, I just got thinking about it as I never decided to investigate the cause, instead I just replaced the engine a week later. I was driving, coolant temperature was fine, and I now seem to recall there were a few plumes of blue smoke coming out of the exhaust on deceleration, burning oil. This got increasingly worse over the space of a couple of minutes before the engine decided to seize. Now I didn't particularly notice the clouds of smoke at the time because I have a tinted glass on the tailgate,
  7. Smuggler
    You should expect a little heat from it, it may not be as bad as you think though, but if it is more than normal it is sometimes possible for a misfire to raise temperatures in either inlet or exhaust side.
  8. Smuggler
    Get the arcing lead(s) sorted out first, it certainly could cause such a misfire especially if you can see it arcing straight away. Failing that, I would say it's either your coilpack or MAF, do you have access to a VAG com?
  9. Smuggler
    I recently replaced my VR6 engine but kept the original gearbox which was absolutely fine, and never had any noises at all or anything. Now when I put it all back together, I have this kind of tinny metallic rattling noise. It goes away when the clutch pedal is depressed which leads me to believe that its possibly the throwout bearing, as I didn't replace it when refitting the gearbox, didnt get a chance to. I just wondered if anyone else could confirm this as i've never heard one make this noise before. Video is here: Thanks
  10. Smuggler
    Tried changing the fuel filter? Does it have a standard air filter, if so has it been replaced recently? Next thing would be to check fuel pressure at the rail, then injectors.
  11. Smuggler
    Doh, nevermind that post, just saw you said your plugs were wet lol.
  12. Smuggler
    how long did you crank it for? if you ran the engine empty of fuel then it would of drawn a lot of air in through thr fuel lines and can take a while to start. Over 20 seconds cranking is not uncommon, so make sure you've given it a good go before looking at other things first.
  13. Smuggler
    Leads or coil pack, sounds like the plugs had taken most of the strain off whats causing the problem, but has now come back which indicates ignition fault in my opinion.
  14. Smuggler
    I know for certain that the coolant light flashes on the mk3 for low coolant, as when i started the car from cold with my water leak it would be flashing constantly.
  15. Smuggler
    Try maf first, then camshaft sensor second, but sounds like a new mass airflow sensor is needed to me.
  16. Smuggler
    Ahh you're in america aren't you, i'm not too clued up on that stuff over there so i can't really answer that, sorry.
  17. Smuggler
    Surely easier to just change the ecu for an obd1 one?
  18. Smuggler
    Sounds like ignition to me, try the plugs first, if that doesn't help then ts on to leads and coil pack, or dizzy/cap.
  19. Smuggler
    What year is the car, maybe its had the engine changed with the loom for obd1, or had just the ecu replaced with an obd2 one?
  20. Smuggler
    I wouldn't be inclined to believe that the charcoal solenoid is at fault just because it stalled after plugging it in, this could just be a the ecu adjusting because it's seen the valve connected and tried to change/adapt the fuelling, or the solenoid actuating and affecting the fuel. How about the starting issue, does it still not start? I had the exact same problem on my first VR6, sometimes wouldn't start when warm or would take 5 - 10 secs cranking over before starting. Turned out to be a crank sensor, also you can't often rely on whether the sensor looks ok or not, could still be knackere
  21. Smuggler
    Probably through the pollen filter mate, probably just condensed fumes, change it and should be sorted.
  22. Smuggler
    I've just got a quote from my work (mercedes dealer) for all the required bits to change the thermostat housing, crack pipe, seals etc all apart from the thermostat lol. They are for a Vito van 280, but the engines are VR6's so parts should be the same. Was just wondering if these prices are ok, or expensive or what, I need to fix this at the weekend as this coolant loss is quite bad now lol. Anyway: Thermostat housing - £30 Crack pipe - £10.50 Outlet on thermostat housing - £10.50 All the seals etc. - £12.50 So altogether with VAT works out at about £74, how does that sound? Haven't got
  23. Smuggler
    Worth checking/trying a new expansion tank cap, i've just replaced mine as the tank was emptying after 10 miles. But failing that, you wanna do some proper checks on it like compression test, coolant system pressure test, check all hoses for signs of leakage
  24. Smuggler
    Yes that would be the part in question as it changes the fluid pressure distributed to the rear brakes depending on the weight loaded in the car. You can get one for £54 + VAT from GSF car parts.
  25. Smuggler
    I have just done exactly the same as you because of the exact same problem, and my engine also came out of a sharan/galaxy as the the golf vr6's were not equipped with EGR or air injection. That hose is for secondary air injection and no you don't need it. There are blanking plugs available, but I have been unable to find any for sale in the UK. Ideally you would want to remove the valve and fit a 3/4" core plug in its place. You can just put a bit of wood, or a big bolt in the hose and use the hose clamp to just seal it and make sure it goes nowhere and should be fine temporarily, thats how m
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