
IbiVR
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Everything posted by IbiVR
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I wouldnt have thought they do? As you know the ECU works on a model programmed into it, therefore it knows the characteristics of the engine, ie it knows the VE, and the engine size etc, and what all the variables are. This being said, it is possible to program into it at what point you want things to happen, ie wether you want it to switch from sequential injector firing to batch firing and what input you use to switch it, when and where to switch, and so on. When you understand how this model works, then you can alter things, like open/closed loop lambda control, it can be altered on temep
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doesnt take ignition into account though.... Will work better on OBD2 than OBD1 as the ecu is cleverer, and on part throttle boost the ecu will be trying to pull out fuelling to get stoich mixture. It does work, but its a little unrefined... Tom.
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Best box mod for a VR6 imo is swapping out the super long 3.3 final drive for a 3.6 from a gti box. Shorter ratios all round and drives MUCH better. Tom.
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nearly 2000 hits and not one person interested :-(
IbiVR replied to Paul1982's topic in General Chat
I would have to agree thats pricey. If you want that kind of money i would agree with whats been said, take some stuff off the car and sell it sepertaly. For example the headlights and foglights mean nothing to most people that would look at a complete car, but put them on ebay seperatly and your whole market for people after them is increased massivly. I would put the std airbox and leads back on and sell them seperalty Same for the headunit etc, get it all on there seperatly and your market for people wanting that is then huge. Youve got some nice mods on there, and it can be a bit soul des -
My Ibiza was OBD1, and have mapped a few OBD1 cars now that all run pretty good. Our code though isnt available for distribution, its just for me and my freinds really. Not sure who to suggest really, not seen any one else give good results on the std ecu to be completly honest. It will sort of run on std code, but not very well. the enlarged injectors and maf to a point make up for each other, but it will run like a sack, and if you use any boost you will probably melt somehting. If your stuck you could leave the turbo piping to the throttle boddy off, and run a std maf and injectors to get y
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Not updated this for ages, but its pretty much all done. Managed to get a 3" exhaust on it from turbo to tailpipe. Its very tight with the rallye rear beam and diff, but it fits, just. Got a couple of pics of the interior - Its a late LHD Corrado Dash. It was in the car when i got hold of it, but wasnt fitted too well, so had the whole lot out and put it in properly now. It had white clocks in it that i didnt like so put black ones in, and the slot for the head unit is now taken up with oil pressure, temperature and boost/Vac gauge. Excuse the messy wiring - the covers off at the mo and its
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Yeah thats ok. It should only be a tiny bit out, but its as the head is raised slightly like you say. The cams should only be a tiny bit out, but it can be enough so that the cam aligning tool wont quite fit. Tom.
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No 300 is low for 1 bar. Dont know anything about this car so cant say why, but could be all manor of reasons. He lists the turbo as T3, if it is a straight T3 then its not big enough for 1 bar. What I mean by that is it could well have 1 bar at 4-5k, but the T3 compressor wont be able to blow enough air to maintain and flow 1 bar at 6.5k+, where it'll be making the most power, especially as it has cams. Hence the lower power output. You can see by the torque figure of 333 it wants to go more, but cant maintain the power at higher revs, where you'll get the best HP reading. If its a straight T
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100% agree on the box. The rallye box is no use on a vr6 turbo. The rear diff is only good for ~300hp before the sprag clutch snaps The fd of the diff and xfer box's are different for the vr syncrho stuff, so use the vr6 diff, you need the matching box. Also the gear ratios of the rallye box are no use for turbo, way to short. if you rev out to quickly in 1st/2nd 3rd (which you will with some power up it) you dont have the time to build boost and use it. Longer gears means more time in each gear, more time = more boost=more power. I am using the std rallye box with a vr bellhousing (waste of t
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Engine is tilted fowards 30 ish degrees in the carravell. Has an odd rocker cover with a long oil filler neck as the engine is set quite deep. Has a very odd, very long inlet tract with long thin runners to improve torque. Cams are different also for torque. 140hp i think it is. Will be running OBD2 but runs all the US spec emmisions control, secondary air injection, exhaust gas recirc etcetcetcetec Got odd injectors in it too. Basically the block is std vr, the head is std vr apart from the cams, pretty much everything else is different. Tom.
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Lambda sensor problem??
IbiVR replied to purple highline monster's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Nice one Tom. -
The have longer thinner runners in the inlet manifold, and different cams. All to increase torque, drops power a bit, but is better for the purpose in the van! Tom.
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Chris Goodwin did it for a bit too http://www.fiagt.com/driverinfo.php?drivername=Chris+Goodwin Tom
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Update: Ok didnt do much on it last weekend in the end, but the one just gone I got loads done. Firstly the Sprinter intercooler turned up - its a large good flowing cooler and is widely available and cheap: It does have plastic end caps, which arent great for higher boost. Also the whole cooler is a bit too big for the rallye. So the end caps went in the bin, and 2 new end caps made up from 3mm alluminium and welded togther onto the cooler core, and painted. to leave us with: With the cooler finished and in place, work could start on the boost pipes. The ones from the ibiza were a bit to wi
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ARP torque settings for Conrods, crankshaft and head...
IbiVR replied to 6potmkII's topic in Engine Tuning
Yeah thats right. Its cos there not stretch bolts they done need to be so tight. Make sure you use loads of the grease they give you, so you dont get fooled by a tight thread. I'd go slightly more on the headbolts - 75 ish, and once there all in go round again and check them all, a couple may well need nipping up. The rod bolts have a tiny bit of stretch in them. Do them up to 38, undo, up to 38, undo, then finallay back up to 38 again. Bit of a pain but needs doing. Tom. -
[moved] Supercharged VR running real badly :( need help
IbiVR replied to Conky's topic in Engine Tuning
Only cos his code doesnt adjust for increased airflow.... not entirly fair to blame the maf for the fault code... Either way shouldnt melt the wire. That wire supplys 12v to alot of things, MAF, injectors etc. I'd look at changing the loom to really. Tom. -
Lambda sensor problem??
IbiVR replied to purple highline monster's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Hope it works, but i'd have to agree with goldie, sounds like cat..... Fingers x'd Tom. -
Good to hear your opinion kev - see its not just me whos rates em... It is a startling improvement imo - as i said at the very beggining of this thread its a worthwhile mod, even with any power increase aside. Start opening up your plug gaps a little, you should find you can get in to the high 30's without problem. Not sure on your plugs, but the BKR7E's seem to perform well and last with the msd's. Bigger gap and stronger spark means you can run more ignition. You may find that you can tweak your ignition map a little now, which will get you more power. Course on stock management it'd do it
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I still have my Optimus Prime :$ Sits on top of my cd's.. Tom.