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jb9999

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Everything posted by jb9999

  1. Mine started running shit all the time when warm, mainly under 2k bud. So far changed plugs, borrowed a new coilpack,new fuel pump relay and a new camshaft sensor. Hopefully new leads should come today.
  2. Have you tried TSR Performance? They stock quite a few different makes, milltek, magnex, supersprint etc. or C&R Enterprises.
  3. Cheers Baz. Will yry that when me leads come. So if there is no difference in the sputtering when I unplug the afs it could be that? A glimmer of hope. Will still keep me Zippo handy tho.
  4. Know where your coming from bud. Should get me new leads tomorrow, if that dosn't work i'm gonna torch it.
  5. Have yo checked your leads Alun? Mine looked very new, but also very cheap, when I put new plugs in so eliminated them as the problem. But yesterday was taking them off to check and they just disintergrated in me hands! think this may be the problem. Just ordered some magnecor ones from awesome , think they were £95 incuding vat and delivery. Think the 7 & 8mm ones were the same price.Hope this helps.
  6. Depends where you go mate. Spark plugs from VW a tenner each nearly but you can get cheaper. Leads from Vw were £20 each but you can get Magnecor ones For abot a hundred a set. Hope it cures your problem!
  7. Tell me about it! Just changed the puel pump relay and, suprise suprise, no difference what so ever. Haven't tried the air flow sensor yet tho. Looks like it could be a new tb jobbie. Anyone know how much they are ? Don't look cheap.
  8. I had splitfire plugs in an audi sport I had and had nothing but grief off them. Ended up throwing them in the bin. I would highly recommend Bosch super four plugs. Had them in my last golf and were mint, and don't need changing for 2 years minimum.Or you can go to VW and £60 for the NGK plugs they use.Lol .Bosch cheaper and better!
  9. The dealers will probably have a press to push the driveshaft out, but I would have thought any decent garage would have one as you need one to push new wheel bearings into the hub. Failing that a vice, a big hammer and a piece of wood normally does the trick.Lol.
  10. I use swarfega without the grit in it or a bit copperslip on the flange, but fairy is as good as anything.
  11. In theory , once the nut is off, it should come apart but like has been said years of muck and rust can have an effect. Plus the torque on these nuts is very high,I have had to put a piece of scaffolding tube onto the powerbar and jump up and down on it in the past to loosen them (not kidding), so the driveshaft is going to be very tight in the hub.
  12. Cheers baz. Cleaning the tb did make a lot of difference but did not cure it. It idles beter , but sometimes drops to about 700rpm and sounds very lumpy but has not cut out. Yet anyway.
  13. yeah, same here ni-golf. Going to change fuel pump relay tomorrow and also put a gasket between tb and upper inlet manifold.The cheapest of some of the suggestions I've had. Will let you know of the results,as your prob sounds exactly the same as mine.
  14. Can honestly say that is one band \\\\\\\\\i would not admit to folowing either. Any band who has a one armed drummer must be crap or seriuosly restricted! Your Philthy Animal type drummer is what you want, noisy as f**k and knows how to use double bass drums (eg . Overkill), Nice!
  15. Cheers mate. Just so I know which one to take out on my quest to cure the spluttery thing. Must say, cleaning the tb did make alot of difference. Didn't cure it ,but is definitely running a lot better. I'll try changing the relay and put a gasket between the tb and inlet manifold and see if that cures it, a lot cheaper than a new tb! I'll keep you posted as your pproblem sounds exactly the same as mine, and ni-golf as well.
  16. I would change it, or bodge it, depending on price. If left will probably drip a bit oil now and again onto exhaust manifold and smell a bit. Maybe a small amount of smoke as well.
  17. Which relay is the fuel pump relay in the fuse box? If its the silvery colour one on the far right, should it be warm after the engine has just been switched off? Cheers.
  18. Contrary to popular belief , a standard cat only restricts gas flow of exhaust fumes by 2%. So, if this equates to bhp, you will only get 4bhp tops by decating. Plus you will have the hassle of putting the cat back on every time its MOT is due. If it costs more than a £100 for a decat , it's an expensive 4bhp to me.
  19. Took my throttle body off yesterday to clean it and noticed there was no gasket between the tb and the upper inlet manifold. Should there be a gasket? or are these mating surfaces engineered to perfection. Sounds unlikely and could explain my spluttery problem.
  20. Like I said, they never stick open because of the spring behind the valve. Let us know if the cleaning of the tb works. Cheers
  21. Exactly. they dont stick open. I cleaned mine out today but havn't had it out since so don't know if its worked or not. Don't know if mines obd1 or 2 either. Any easy ways to tell? Mines on a P plate, think its 96.
  22. Sos mate! Been off line for a bit, just read it today as I'm having similar prob with the sputtery thing and was looking for guidance. Normally if a thermostat knacks it will start overheating as it dont open when it should so the coolant can,t get out of the engine to the radiator to cool down. I have yet to have a car where the thermostat sticks open! Better late than never (friendly advice that is) jim
  23. Before you change your thermostat, the bottom hose is supposed to be cold. As the coolant cools down in the radiator, it goes to the bottom of the radiator and then enters the engine again. AS the coolant warms up it rises to the top of the engine where it leaves the engine through the top hose into the radiator to be cooled down again. Sounds as if there is nothing wrong with your thermostat mate.
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