jon@vagworx
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Everything posted by jon@vagworx
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Lol, surprising how this list of bits goes up :-d Also, very surprising how the costs of the small things that you never thought of, seem to snowball
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Ahh, just dawned on me......i guess that Vince maps DTA, sorry, makes sence.
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Looks like its all going well mate, really nice setup. Little confused that you may have sold short by going for the DTA???? Would have thought you would have gone better. Will you still be using the stock coil pack/wastespark setup????
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PM'd
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The manifold on ebay is a copy of the HGP one, but very badly replicated. I know this because i bought one of these very same ones from germany many months ago and was rubbish. Excellent design tho because the air doesn't come from one end, and ideal for use with a front mount as it angles the throttle down. Highly recomend the hgp one. Or you could make your own using the standard intake and a bit of 3" tube, flipside customs made this one-
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Lol, sorry, i see what your saying, for some reason i was thinking along the lines of increasing the fuel pressure to suit the boost as it comes in then the ecu could take over increasing the fuel as the airflow increases, lol. Am trying to take in soo much info lately that i get confused quite easily!!!!! Must have known thats how it works as iv'e got a cossie rising rate fpr that i'm thinking of using, but i'm liking this fully controllable type (h) Looks the same as the EIP one, gusess they prob just re-badge it,lol Which one did you go for then Kev????
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Think i missunderstood, i was thinking that Kev has a chip to sort the timing etc but was needing a solution to the unexpected increase in maf size, ie increase in air flow, so my solution would be just to increase the fuel pressure throughout, but keeping the original fuel curve from the map???? My bad, i'll keep me nose out,lol!!!
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Kev, you should buy an adjustable fpr here - http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=174 Run the 4" maf, then useing the wideband fine tune the fuel Looks really good tho, good to see your not scrimping/cutting corners anywhere.
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defo not warrior mate LPS in ipswich has a good reputation. But if you want the best then go to hayward and scott at basildon
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Not sure if this helps, but the mk4 4mo box mounts up but the hangers are round the wrong way. You need to then either make new brackets or buy then from dutch dubs Would have thought the r32 box was quite similar if not the same.
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Oh btw, if it helps, my synchro has had 265 (fly)hp and 235 lbft of supercharged power running through it for a couple of years now and its coped just fine. Not sure how it will handle its new found power tho, but this won't be a problem soon either
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Very true, but it doesn't answer the question,lol. I gave that figure because its a ball park of safety and easily understood, torque is a very strange thing and has various effects on various parts. The point i was trying to get accross was it all depends on how violent/hard you are on the transmition. Baisically, it can handle the higher end of supercharger performance and low end of turbo performance. So imo if you don't want to upgrade the transmition go with a charger.
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Well, thats a difficult question to answer, how much abuse can anything take.....??!! Well informed people say that the transmition is ok for around 300hp, but of course if your more gentle it will handle more, if you abuse it it will handle less. Also depends on what condition its in to start with
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Lol, nice one mate, worth a go i spose :-d Only problem i can see is finding out how much boost it can take, its not like you can keep uping it, then go ooops too much, back it off a bit!!!!!
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Contact C2 mate they can provide you with an Eprom to do the job and do it very well, i hear. Imo, the stock ecu is very good (to a point of course) and vag spent millions to make it what it is, i'd like to keep hold of it until i really need to get rid.
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Change em there yourself
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I've not known a 3.0l last more than 15k over here, but the yanks seem to run silly hp through em. Contact Schimmel for more info as they seem to have built many 3.0l's with serious results
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Just to clear up the maf position questions - On a Vortech the maf needs to be before the charger. On the ZR1/2 the Maf will go between the charger and the throttle. This is because of the way the z charger draws in air, if you put the maf before it, the maf signals go crazy. You can rectify this by moveing the Maf further away, but it seems you have to move it atleast 18 inches away from the charger. This isn't usually acheivable, so the only option is to put the maf after the charger.
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Buy a GT30RS that will get rid of your lag problems;)
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Back from remap at Stealth - CADGUY's results
jon@vagworx replied to cadguy77's topic in Engine Tuning
That doesn't look great. Can't understand why you would buy a Shrick Manifold for a flat spot and hardly any gains. Imo you should sell the manifold/cams etc and buy a charger. You will probably get change aswelll.