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MarkGolf

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Everything posted by MarkGolf

  1. MarkGolf
    Hi guys, I've been out of the loop for a little while but trying to get back into it all now. I got my VR6 up and running-ish again, the other day. The gear change hit me straight away, it feels awful!! It's a corrado vr6 setup but in my Golf, I had replaced all bushings in the shifter and it has a gruven short shift (side to side), but the throw from front to rear is enormous and there feels like a lot of play, I put the car into first and the knob then looks like it moves to where 3rd is, its just like a stick in mud. Should I go with an 02J setup or the besters modific
  2. MarkGolf
    Hi Guys, I know people ask this a fair bit but I feel like I have done everything I can with the 02A shifter to try and improve it.. So, I have a corrado shifter, just because this came with my engine (in a mk3), when trying to find the source of the crap feel I tried a mk3 shifter and made no difference apart from the internal shifter being taller. So anyway, I have replaced every bush within the shifter, I have a gruven short shifter bracket and new bearings in the tower. The big nut on the shifter tower is done up all the way. The shifter just feels crap, literally no feel, it goes into f
  3. MarkGolf
    I saw the car forsale last month on AutoTrader, had 140 odd k miles.
  4. MarkGolf
    Thanks mate!! I just finished fitting a new ignition switch and the car no longer seems to be resetting the clocks when cranking although all I am getting is the clunk of the solenoid. I saw your post and I used a jump lead to earth that bolt to the chassis but same clunk, so new starter it is. I'll report back with what happens! Thanks again
  5. MarkGolf
    I agree with that.. The starter motor has always been a bit slow to turn over, ever since I completed the car, the car struggled to fire up and when cranking, every time the clocks would reset. I used to have an Optima yellow top battery, the car was the same, lazy and slow to turn over, compared to my mates VR6's which would fire up on the button and really fast. I am going to connect a larger battery up and see what happens, if no improvement, I'll get a new starter motor and keep my fingers crossed. One last question, on 1 of the 2 bolts which hold the starter motor to the gearbo
  6. MarkGolf
    Thanks for your help again! Tried some troubleshooting on it today.. So, the battery is in the boot, I am running 0awg positive and negative. The battery is ground out to the boot floor and the positive runs to a BMW terminal box and then to the starter motor. I am using a BOSCH S4 (560A 60ah) battery.. Possibly a bit weak for the demand on it when cranking.. So, the first thing I did today was run a jumper cable from the start postive to the ignition live on the solenoid, this turned the starter but only just.. This prompted me to try with the key, turned the key and woohoo, car fired up.
  7. MarkGolf
    Thanks for the reply. I did give the starter a bit of a tap with a rubber mallet but not as hard as I would have liked as the whole thing has been chrome plated.. Have to be careful when doing anything, complete pain in the arse!! I'm not aware of anywhere that can test the starter, would like to know though. I do have another in bits which was a spare, no solenoid however, just wanted to know if this sounds like a starter issue or not, if so, the actually solenoid or lumpy bit! Thanks
  8. MarkGolf
    Hi Guys, Been a while but trying to get my Golf going.. It's not been driven for 2.5 years and the last time I cranked it over was around 6 months ago.. Recently I turned the engine over by hand at the crank before trying by key. I hopped into the car and the car cranked but not enough to fire.. Every attempt there after, it doesn't crank. I can just hear a clunk from the starter motor, I assume this is the solenoid. I have 12.4V at the battery (this is in the boot), I have 12.4v at the starter and there is power at the red/black wire when I crank but I don't get a chance to see the number on
  9. MarkGolf
    Hi all, I had a starting issue appear when at Early Edition... I came home and stripped the starter motor off after doing various tests. I had to get it off anyway to change the mounting body for a newly chromed one so this was an excuse to do that and give it a once over. I tested the obvious.. Volts across the battery posts, volts across the wire terminals, volts at the starter solenoid, all showed consistent values of 12.9V.. Before the starter was stripped off and then rebuilt, you would turn the key and you could hear the starter make a sound but all power would die and clocks reset. This
  10. MarkGolf
    Maybe I need to run it slightly longer.. I must have had it running for 20 mins last night while I did my coolant but I didn't really rev it..Just let it idle.. I'm going to re-bleed the tensioner bolt and let it run again.. Cheers
  11. MarkGolf
    Hi all, Recently gave my cylinder head a rebuild after my od head had dodgy seals.. Fitted new valves, guides, seals and tappets. I reused the springs and cams but all appeared fine.. I fired the car up for the first time last night and it ran for no longer than 2 mins as I had minimal coolant in there, all sounded perfect.. Tonight I fired it up so I could bleed the coolant system and with 2/3 mins the engine developed a tappety noise, it appears to be coming from cylinder 3/5 area and stats at a steady volume no matter the revs but the noise does match the engine RPM.. Can anyone shed any li
  12. MarkGolf
    Thanks for that mate, I can finally crack on and get her going again! Cheers
  13. MarkGolf
    Hi all, Im about to fit my ARP head bolts but there seems to be a lack of info on correct fitment. Do the rods go in until tight or is there a torque? I will be using the lubricant that is supplied. Also, the nuts, ive seen to do them up in 3 stages, 40/60 and 80 ft/lbs... Can anyone advise? Thanks
  14. MarkGolf
    Thanks all Does anyone know the size of the thread/studs? Think I've found an alternative to ARP studs! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Exhaust-Manifold-Stud-Kit-Civic-EK9-EK4-EG6-/150748204405?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item23194b0d75 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-T-Series-Stainless-Exhaust-Studs-Locking-Nuts-/380237434697?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5887eacf49
  15. MarkGolf
    Yeah,keep seeing everything but the exhaust kit on ebay.. No reason other than they wont rust like the standard ones and a little bit of Friday night boredom..
  16. MarkGolf
    Hello all, I'm tryig to find an ARP exhaust stud kit but can't find anywhere!! Can anyone help? Thanks
  17. MarkGolf
    It has a walbro because the standard one failed and I was future proofing the car I case F/I comes. No idea on the timing Geth but followed a manual and I'm pretty sure it's perfect. The notch on the intermediate sprocket can be seen and everything else I can see appears lined up. The car was originally a 1.4 and has an obd2 socket but the engine and ecu etc is all obd1 lol...
  18. MarkGolf
    I did check it before removing everything. I believe it to be correct, the crank pulley mark lined up, piston 1 was at TDC and I could slide the cam lock tool in place with no effort. The only thing that is a bit strange is the flywheel timing mark which I can't see whenever the crank is lined up so I must have fitted that wrong! lol The car always sticks with or slightly pulls on other VR's so I think the timing was cool. When I unplug the MAF, the car starts to hunt and run crap so I know that works. Obvisouly the MAF has been relocated to where the carbon canister is and sits right behind
  19. MarkGolf
    hi all, I've just removed my cylinder head to bolt a new one on and everything appears very sooty, plugs, pistons etc Now, when the car was working, when rev'd from a standstill, thick black smoke and black deposits would shoot out the exhaust, I also got blue smoke on over run. I figured my valve seals probably needed doing so that's what I'm doing now. Anyway, when standing behind the car, the smell of fuel is crazy so add that to the soot and I am confident of an over fuelling issue. My car has a walbro pump and a 4bar Fpr. It is originally a 2.9 corrado setup. It has new everything (as o
  20. MarkGolf
    I could well be going mad... I had an engine from a Galaxy or Sharan years back and it had this hole.. Secondary air injection? Either way, to save me rebuilding a spare OBD1 head I've got, I found an obd2 head which I want to buy to save the hassle of rebuilding mine.. I bought new guides seals etc etc but everyone wants over £100 just to press the valve guides in and then 2 local firms want £60 and £70 to skim the thing!
  21. MarkGolf
    if it will fit onto my engine, yeah.. I just question that hole in the front of the head..
  22. MarkGolf
    Hi all. I'm looking to replace the head on my VR6... If I remember rightly, the OBD2 head has some sort of hole in the front of it.. I know my OBD1 head doesn't have this. What is it and can it be blocked off so I can fit it to my corrado engine without issue? Thanks
  23. MarkGolf
    Back from the dead... I used a drapper valve removal tool.. Big G clamp looking thing.. I dont suppose anyone has the VW tools I could borrow for a beer or 2? I've completely stripped the head and had it skimmed so now I want to refit everything.. Brand new collared guides, supertech seals, new followers.. Should hopefully make a nice difference!
  24. MarkGolf
    Hi all, I'm in the process of rebuilding a spare VR6 head I've got.. I've got new followers, valves, valve seals and valve guides.. I plan on getting the head acid dipped and skimmed then rebuilding. The local engine builders firm want £20 per valve guide for fitting.. The ones I pulled out were collarless, therefore, you could have ended up pushing them too far into the head.. My new replacements have collars which I assume are there to make fitting easier as they can only go in so far. When comparing old to new, the collars would sit the valve guide in the same position as the ones that hav
  25. MarkGolf
    Thanks guys.. I hvae this spare head so I have all the time in the world to build it. I bloody skimped on my current engine and didn't rebuild the head, simply bottom end which I'm regretting now! Get thick soot in the tailpipes and occassionally blows blue smoke on overrun and black smoke when reving hard. doh! Plan on stripping the spare head, gettting gasket matching the ports with a dremel, then get it acid dipped and skimmed then rebuild. New valve guide, relap the valves and replace the springs and followers with nice new items.. I think that should cover it all? Oh and will do the injec
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