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mightyvr6

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Everything posted by mightyvr6

  1. mightyvr6
    No, that's the thermostat housing. Go lower down. It's a single cable going into the block held in place with a single allen key bolt.
  2. mightyvr6
    Best to get the ecu checked for fault codes. The cam sensor is a probable cause and robs the engine of 20- 30 hp.
  3. mightyvr6
    it's on the front of the block on the right hand side of the oil cooler.
  4. mightyvr6
    I'm pretty sure that if the crank sensor is dead you don't get spark or fuel.
  5. mightyvr6
    Mine did that and the ecu was knackered. What number is the relay?
  6. mightyvr6
    Do you get any click from the ecu relay?
  7. mightyvr6
    Give the crank position sensor a good clean. It's on the right hand side of the block next to the oil cooler.
  8. mightyvr6
    Have you plugged in diagnostics?
  9. mightyvr6
    Sounds like the heater matrix has blown up. Join the 2 pipes which go through the bulkhead to bypass the matrix.
  10. mightyvr6
    Have you given the cam sensor a good clean? Could also be the maf.
  11. mightyvr6

    VR6 To S3?

    mightyvr6 replied to vr6matt's topic in General Chat

    You'd be surprised what a vr6 with forced induction can beat. A 300 bhp vr6 could see of an M3 pretty easily. M3's have a crap power band wheras a vr6 turbo has power evrywhere. S3's are heavy cars and have a crap power to weight ratio and vr6s are fairly light by modern car standards. I'd fancy my chances in a vr6.
  12. mightyvr6
    Early Mrk 4 US spec golfs had the 12v engine which was later replaced by 24v unit. All European Mrk 4s are 24v.
  13. mightyvr6
    The vr6 (12v) isn't strictly dohc as it only has one cam per bank of cylinders. I'm not sure the 24v vr6 has 2 sets of cams either as there is barely enough room, as the engine is a still a narrow angle v6. I think the 24v unit has 2 cams which have been designed with additional lobes to operate the extra valves.
  14. mightyvr6
    The ticking noise is probably being caused by the water pump failing. A similar thing happened on my polo which I though was engine related and it turned out to be the pump. New pump and it was running sweetly again with no ticking.
  15. mightyvr6
    I think the correct name for those nuts are splines.
  16. mightyvr6
    Looks right. Seriously though try coating the plastic with epoxy as the sparking is caused by hairline cracks in the plastic which causes arcing. Coilpacks rarely fail (my original coilpack is on 126,000) and the repair will make it work perfectly. It's only when one of the coil fails that you'd need a new one so it's defo worth doing the repair.
  17. mightyvr6
    GSF car parts ell them for
  18. mightyvr6
    Pull the leads and make sure each one is sparking. Use a sparkplug in each to test for spark. The hall sender (cam sensor) is right above the coilpack.
  19. mightyvr6
    an allen key will get it off too.
  20. mightyvr6
    Don't think it is an engine out job but you do have to undo the mounts and jack the engine up to get access.
  21. mightyvr6
    Later cars had a better tensioner and bolt which is spring loaded and as well as operated by oil pressure. Not sure what year this was introduced. The newer tensioner and bolt is a good upgrade though. Its actually pretty rare for the chain to snap or jump a tooth but it's defo worth inspecting if it worries you.
  22. mightyvr6
    I believe you can just replace the upper tensioner if it's worn without having to rip everything apart.
  23. mightyvr6
    Best seem to be 268s in combination with a schrick manifold. You don't strictly need the valve springs unless you like redlining your car all the time. Can be fitted with the head in place.
  24. mightyvr6
    Normal price
  25. mightyvr6
    I think dundee might have fitted an aftermarket air to oil cooler. If your concerned about oil temps get one fitted (there's a group buy for them on the corrado forum right now)
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