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acf8181

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Everything posted by acf8181

  1. well, its pretty crazy to have a vr6 at 18 anyway. but its your money.
  2. maybe you should use it a tad more sparingly! lol
  3. can't you use the tool that should be in your tool kit in the boot (with the jack)? there's a tool for removing centre caps.
  4. zymol is the best for sure...www.zymol.co.uk i found mer to dusty, and not that impressive.
  5. i've got a full set of vibratech ones, fast road rears with competition front. all i can say is wow! they've totally transformed it, theres no vibration and the engine is rock solid, just the way it should be. i'd previously tried replacing the front one with an o.e. one at it made no difference. uprated is the way to go...will cost £300 unfortunatly, though phatvr6's mate might be able to get them a tad cheaper
  6. just get them from vw, they should be red, as they are much tougher at the plug end than any copies i've seen. cost £100ish.
  7. you sure the halfords connectors use the same colour of wires?
  8. how can anyone need 2 12" subs...the bass must be overwhelming! one high quality 10" is perfect for any music.
  9. clean it again...and make sure theres no metal wool like crap in there. took me a couple of cleans to get it spot on. also clean the TB whilst you're there.
  10. your car will feel like brand new when you get the camber set properly.
  11. i'm guessing they go down inside each a and c pilar (never looked on a golf, but they do on other cars) i believe they are there cause the sunroof seals aren't as good as door seals (and you wouldn't want huge seals on your roof lookin ugly), so the drain tubes are there to get rid of any water that gets in.
  12. i reckon its coming from the additional water pump like mine was...be warned, it'll be the pump thats damaged most likely, and it will suddenly let go (though you may notice that it starts using water loads just before). get a mirror down there and see what you can see. if you can't be sure its leaking from anywhere by doing that...go to a local garage and get a coolant pressure test done. watch him do it, so you can be sure of where its coming from...be careful though, its very hard to see where exactly its coming from down there, even when doing the pressure test...cause theres so many hoses
  13. the parts cost about £100 from GSF (they're genuine ones, but cost half the price of the same items from vw) labour would most likely be a good 4-6 hrs at least. its a bit of a game of russian roulette to wait till they rattle, its concievable that if the wrong tensioner or runner let go it would immediatly jump loads of teeth and trash the engine. however, from what i've been reading, later (obd2) cars are much less likely to have problems. i reckon on obd1 its a must...they always wear down the upper tensioner 'blade' runner. obd2's have a single row top chain, so it wears that item less.
  14. i've never removed injectors...i know the plugs swival around so you can undo the wiring connectors. rest i'm unsure.
  15. i'd ask more q's if i were you. i'd heard that kwik fit didn't have the equiptment to do camber.
  16. er, just check at the dash speaker...hopefully it'll say which is + and which is -, then compare it to where it meets the h/u
  17. yeah, i don't think halfords do splines come to think of it, i got mine from a great little tool shop we have near here. the size you need is an M8 by the way, but you may well have to buy a set. demon tweeks sell sets by the way, in their motorsport catalogue. the pro's use ball end allen keys for the front bolts.
  18. theres no way they did camber as well for £25. sounds to me like all they did was tracking.
  19. the wheel looks like its really sticking out at the top...can you post up another pic of your car
  20. ok, the original speaker wiring works like this... the fronts - one wire goes from h/unit to dash speaker, then another goes from the dash speaker down through the big plug into the door speaker. rear (3dr) - wire goes straight from h/unit to main speaker, then another wire comes from main speaker upto the tweeter.
  21. your biggest worry should be damaging it as you remove it, but with care and gentleness (not forcing it) it should be fine. i once removed the rooflining from a nova, and replaced it perfectly (was changing the sunroof)
  22. well, if you're gonna do that you may as well get the lower bit of the rear bumper done as well. but don't be tempted to do the splitter...i doubt the paint will stay on for long!
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