whats a good thing to do when my head is off?

[DundeeDub 0]

Just wanting to plan ahead,

what are your idea for me to do when my head is off, gotta get the gasket done and was wondering what else could i do.

any idea would be great and i will pick the best ones for my mission in about 6 months

[andy 0]

probably obvious, but always replace the valve stem oil seals, these can cause the beast to smoke on startup. the skys the limit otherwise m8, porting and polishing is always an option, there's generally room for improvement over o.e set up, though not massive gains.

[Eat this 2]

clean ur neck out lol

[DundeeDub 0]

any more ideas?? am thinking not just work on the head but with the head being off it would give access to other parts to

[kilokilla 0]

how about a nice camkit if you havent already got one.

[acf8181 0]

well, will make it easier to get to the rear engine mount if you wanna change that. thats about it really.

[DundeeDub 0]

just looking for ideas just now, eventually want to go down the super or turbo charged route to.

rear mounts a good one didn't think of that

[ Edited Sat May 22 2004, 11:45AM ]

[VR6Pete 1,455]

chain tensioners!!

[acf8181 0]

that unfortunalty requires the gearbox to be removed.

[DundeeDub 0]

was thinking about the whole chain and tensioners etc. if gear box needs removed then so be it, may just take a little longer and move expense then.

any more ideas on the work for the head what else can be done and what benifits do you get??

[FishWick 21]

Check the bores. Number 6 tends to ovalise prematurely on some engines.

I would do as the others say and do the chains & tensioners too, but it depends what mileage you're at. Anything over 80K then definitely do them.

I've just had mine done as there was slack in my chains. I also took the brave step of experimenting with the 1999 12V solid upper tensioner and sprung/hydraulic tensioner bolt. I believe I am one of the first people to do this on a pre 99 12V engine. Certainly the 1st Stealth have done.

So far so good. The engine is now dead quiet and you can really feel the difference between old slack chains and new slack free ones. I've seen pics of a solid tensioner after 125K that had no wear at all, so all in all, I think it's a good move as to be honest, I took one look at a new phenolic coated upper pad and it ain't going anywhere near my engine.

K

[ Edited Sat May 22 2004, 09:02PM ]

[VRmonster 1]

so how much on top of replacing the chains was the solid tensioner, and is it an aftermarket part or is it standard in the 99> cars?

[FishWick 21]

Hi mate, the solid polymer tensioner pad is a genuine MK4 12V VW part (American market and Euro 12V run-out engines), 021 509 109E. Pre 99 tensioner pads end with a B. Incidentally, the part number suffixes denote the amount of times that part has been modified. E.g. A = once, B = twice and so on....

Get this... the old style riveted 'B' pad is £27, the revised 'E' one is £6.50!

When using the E pad, you must also use the corresponding sprung/hydraulic tensioner bolt as it's piston end is a different shape to the original non-sprung bolt. Part number 021 507 109B. A is the old style bolt.

If you get this done at Stealth, you do it at your own risk. The E pad and B bolt have not been officially tested on pre 99 duplex chained 12V engines, (99 engines are simplex upper chain) and therefore due to it being a non-standard part, most garages will not warn you that if you use that part and it breaks, you will foot the bill for the repairs.

I've done a lot of research into this and I have willingly taken that risk as I am 100% confident it works and last 10 x longer than the B pad.

It's already been in the engine for 600 miles and the engine is just soooooo quiet and creamy smooth.

Hope that helps.

K

[ Edited Sun May 23 2004, 03:24PM ]

[ Edited Sun May 23 2004, 03:26PM ]