Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I know this is covered all over the place on this site but trying to the pull the pieces together is hell!!! :(

It appears as though quite a few members have or have access to VAG-COM equipment. My VR6 is very ill and requires imediate consultation with a diagnostic guru.

I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread that peoople could reply to who have vag-com and who would be prepared to loan/hire/exchange for beer etc.

The idea being that they say what area of the country they live and the best method of contact and anyone in desperate need can find a local member who might be able to help...what do you think? :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

The car is late '97 registered with a WW chassis number (1998). To be honest i am not sure how you tell if its ODB1 or 2 (any help on that greatly appreciated). I live on the Berkshire Wiltshire border between Hungerford and Marlborough. I work in Hungerford and i frequently travel to London and Manchester.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I work for a diagnostic tools company so can get access to dealership stuff (1551) + our own tool. :)

Located in Bristol and work in Wiltshire.

On the VR6 you should have a big d-type 16-pin connector behind a cover above the cigar lighter. Need to remove the ashtray to get to it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got VAG-COM and am willing to scan/help anyone in the East Anglia region.

Your black tailpipes should clear up after a long, hard run. The deposits should be dry and not stain your finger. If the deposits are thick and won't easily wipe off your chosen digit, the engine is running a tad on the rich side. Wet deposits when the engine and exhaust are fully up to temperature spells trouble.

They're not hard and fast rules as sitting in traffic jams all day long will soot up the exhaust too.

And lastly, since the demise of leaded petrol, most exhausts are black now anyway. It seems to be the way unleaded burns.

I remember the good old days of 4 and 5 star leaded. A indicator of a healthy engine used to be light grey deposits in the exhaust. Now you can't tell easily anymore :(

Link to post
Share on other sites

What are the rules when using Diagnostic equipmet, should the engine be running or not? I am looking for a potential MAF fault but i am aware that these are a barstard to track down because the ECU only lists fault codes for MAFs that are totally knackered (or the MAF wiring) a MAF operating slightly out of range appears to the ECU as a good one!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can check the ABS ECU and the Engine's stored fault codes with the engine off but ignition on. Engine speed sensor (G28) and vehicle speed sensor (G68) will both come up as faulty with the engine off. Ignore those as it's a bug in the ECU's firmware. Obviously if the crank and Final drive aren't rotating, there won't be a signal.....well done Bosch!

With the engine running, you can do more thorough checking of the Idle valve (N71) adaption values, inlet temperature, coolant temp, O2 activity, idle speed, injector pulse times, fuel adapation limits etc etc. As you say, the MAF (G40) will only be coded if it's shorted to ground or the signal is so weak the ECU considers it dead.

[ Edited Thu May 20 2004, 07:15PM ]

[ Edited Thu May 20 2004, 07:16PM ]

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

I got mine shipped in from www.ross-tech.com for £140 all in. Not sure how much it is now though.

There is also www.vag-com.co.uk but they took 2 weeks to send me a 2+2 lead for my mate's G60, so they're a bit pants tbh. Ross tech sent me my lead next day. You download the software from their site.

K

Link to post
Share on other sites
×
×
  • Create New...