Rear Discs/Pads

[julesz 0]

Hi all and a Merry Christmas.

I am about to change rear discs and pads on my '97 highline.

Is this a simple operation of removing and replacing as with most cars? I realise the caliper needs turning and compressing using the special tool, but have also heard that the disc is attached to the bearing and this needs replacing too?

Thanks all

[vr6 g3 0]

Yeah you'd be best changing the bearing's aswell for the price of them, their easy to do their just tapper bearings the hardest part is getting the caliper carrier off cos the nuts will be pretty tight.

[julesz 0]

Thanks... Would this be the inner bearing or outer bearing or both? I notice ECP do a complete kit containing both...

[julesz 0]

Hi, anyone know if this affects the inner or outer bearing or both?

[SankysVR6 1]

yes it's both inner and outer bearings. You don't have to replace the bearings, its just they don't cost much and it saves you the hassle of removing the old.You might need to get new ABS rings if you damage them when you take the old ones off. And give the ABS sensors a little clean and try not to get any muck on them or move them.

[purple highline monster 0]

as sanky says the only reason for replacing the bearing is you cant usually get the old ones out without damage, good piece of mind to have new bearings anyway! they can fail as some have found out!!!

[julesz 0]

okey dokey, will get new bearings, disks and pads. How hard is this to do(re bearings)? Will it be obvious as my haynes manual doesnt include VR6...

[purple highline monster 0]

rear discs are 357615601B (

[drewvr6 0]

remember to refit abs rotors from inside of old discs on to new, or your abs light will come on,this is what your abs sensor reads when wheel is turning

[jayvwvr6 0]

do not buy gsf wheel bearings these are crap.maindealer for these as loads of members including my self have had little milage out of these after market ones,maindealers only a couple of quid extra but worth it.

[antera309 3]

Yes, you will need a new set of bearings - the outer bearing rings won't come out of the old discs without damage.

You will need a good soft-faced hammer 'cos it's used extensively in this job. You will also need the piston windback tool (Haynes' suggested alternative of using long nosed pliers is ineffective - the thing is very tight to start off with and you can't get enough torque with pliers). Also, an 8mm Allen key socket, a 2 foot breaker bar and a set of large sockets (20mm-36mm).

Handbrake needs to be OFF throughout the process.

New bearing rings are hammered into the disc centre using an appropriate sized socket as a drift (either 34mm or 36mm for the inner one, can't remember the size for the smaller outer one).

Pack the new bearing races with grease, then pop these into the dic centre, again, smallest on the outside. Then there's a rubber seal that goes on the inside of the disc centre which just hammers into place.

To remove the caliper carrier bolts, spray with lots of release oil, leave overnight than undo them with the 8mm Allen key socket & 2-foot breaker bar. Removing the handbrake cable and the bracket for the hydraulic line aids access to the lower bolt. With the caliper and disc removed, the caliper piston can be wound back and the new pads fitted.

Take the ABS rings off the old discs, clean them up and fit them to the new discs. The ABS rings are removed using a long, thick flathead screwdriver and a hammer. Lots of release oil, then jam the screwdriver between the inside edge of the ABS ring and the edge of the disc, then turn the whole thing upside down and hit the disc's outside face with the hammer. Work your way around the disc doing this and eventually the ring will come off intact. Fitting it to the new disc is a simple hammer job.

Then the disc and bearings just slide onto the (cleaned) stub axle and the whole lot is held in place with the hub washer & nut. Tighten the nut to 110Nm, then slacken it off and tighten until the washer can only just be moved with a screwdriver. Then secure the nut with the "crown" cap and the split pin (this all comes with the new bearings.

Finally, refit the caliper with new pads, torque the carrier bolts up to 65Nm, refit the handbrake cable and hydraulic line bracket and it's job done.

With both sides done, start the engine and pump the brakes about 20 times before operating the handbrake. Adjust handbrake cables if necessary.

Hope this helps. With the right tools to hand, it's about a 2 hour job.

[mtopple 0]

thinking of replacing my rear discs and pads, is it worth upgrading to drilled and fast pagid as I have that on front but not sure of real benifit putting on rear??

[Eat this 2]

id only upgrade the rear disks if uv already done the front as u could send the brake balance to far aft causin huge oversteer under brakin funny but lethal

[FishWick 21]

do not buy gsf wheel bearings these are crap.maindealer for these as loads of members including my self have had little milage out of these after market ones' date='maindealers only a couple of quid extra but worth it.

[/quote']

LOL, how long did they last? I used GSF ones (made by 'VTECH') when I changed my pads and discs a week or so ago They looked OK to me, guess only time will tell!

[bazz780 0]

antera 309 - how much will you charge to do this job lol? after reading your post i dont think i want anyone else to do mine lol

[SiGainey 1]

Thanks to Antera309 for this guide - made it alot easier than doing it "blind"

Couple of extra pics to make it even clearer:

To rewind the piston in the caliper, remove the disc, bolt the carrier & caliper back onto the hub then use the tool [bought from halfords] to wind the piston back in - I had to use the windback tool to apply some pressure to wind the piston back in - just winding it didnt seem to do the job...

Also, couple of pics to show how the ABS ring comes off the back of the disc