matty.vrt 120 Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 fingers crossed Link to post Share on other sites
kie_dub 0 Posted April 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Rang the guys at c2 motorsport this morning, explained my situation and they said that they can put my chip onto another ecu for 38 quid! cant moan at that at all, so gotta get a new ecu, ((if anyone has one that works (obd2) let me know) then send my ecu and the new ecu off to them, ill let you know when i get it done and if it works Link to post Share on other sites
kie_dub 0 Posted April 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2010 Can anyone tell me for definate.... I need an ecu and want to know if i just need to buy an ecu and thats it, there is one on ebay that comes with key, tronsponder box and something else.. is all that necassery? Link to post Share on other sites
Gazbarber1982 3 Posted April 15, 2010 Report Share Posted April 15, 2010 All you should need is the ecu. Most people in the know will be able to ake the immobiliser chip out of your ecu and put it in the new one. If C2 can't do it, I know someone that did it for my mate's S3. Link to post Share on other sites
kie_dub 0 Posted April 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2010 ok cheers gaz Link to post Share on other sites
VIW28 29 Posted April 20, 2010 Report Share Posted April 20, 2010 I'd this same problem the other week as I'm sure C2 will also tell you. Don't know what it was but it cured itself after I checked all the connections on the back of the fuse box, ecu and engine master plug. I wasn't getting fuel or spark though.Worth having a fiddle with all the connections all the same. Link to post Share on other sites
kie_dub 0 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 BIG NEWS!! The car is now working and the problem is solved It turned out that the c2 chip had worked its way loose off my ecu, because whoever fitted it fitted it upside down! so over time going over speed bumps etc its worked its way loose with gravity pulling it down. I bought a new ecu and everything lol. Had a grin from ear to ear when we got it started before cylinder 1 was tapping when i started it but my mate said its because its been stood for 2 months so put oil in before we started it but it did tap anyway so took the rocker cover off and poured abit of oil directly onto it and its fine now.Anyone know the answer to this though... had this problem since ive had the car really. If ive been giving the car some and i turn the car off once i get to wherever i get to ( after leaving it running for a few minutes to cool down abit) then go to start it about 10 minutes or so later, it wont start. It just turns over but doesnt fire up. There is a spark though and the car doesnt run shitty when it starts??? Link to post Share on other sites
kie_dub 0 Posted May 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 bump Link to post Share on other sites
CALICO 130 Posted May 22, 2010 Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 Heat Soak have you tried fitting a turbo timer to see if that helps Link to post Share on other sites
kie_dub 0 Posted May 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 no not got one fitted, what can i do to help the problem? Link to post Share on other sites
b road blaster 0 Posted May 22, 2010 Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 it could be heat soak but as you say that you let it cool down for a few mins i doubt a turbo timer is gonna help, fitting one can aslo invalidate your insurance as it i possable to leve your car runing and unatended just drive the last couple of miles off boost this should cool it down enough i did hear that on mid engined cars is is posable for the fuel to vaporise due to the heat maybe worth building a heat shield round the turbo Link to post Share on other sites
kie_dub 0 Posted May 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 Does sound like heat soak ive just read up about it and all the symptoms are the same, need to put an end to this once and for all lol, anyone got any tips? Link to post Share on other sites
b road blaster 0 Posted May 22, 2010 Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 do any of the other tubo lads suffer from the same prob ??????? Link to post Share on other sites
CALICO 130 Posted May 22, 2010 Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 try getting some lagging for your fuel lines to see if that helps but the vaporisation could be in the fuel rail a thermal intake gasket might help your problem Link to post Share on other sites
kie_dub 0 Posted May 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 I'm curiuos to know if any of the other fi boys get this too? Calico, where can I get lagging for fuel lines and a thermal intake gasket from? Link to post Share on other sites
Gazbarber1982 3 Posted May 22, 2010 Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 I'm not turbo'd but I am charged and I have a similar problem. Sometimes I can turn the car for 7-10 seconds and it won't start but the next time I try it fires straight up. My engine bay seems to feel a lot hotter than my earlier VR with the charger on it. Do the later OBD2 engines run any hotter than earlier OBD1 engines? My fans kick in quite a lot even though I have a low temp. thermostat fitted. I've not checked if there's a low temp. switch in the radiator yet but would it be worth fitting one? Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted May 23, 2010 Report Share Posted May 23, 2010 My car is very reluctant to start when hot, but i can adjust the hot start fueling so it does, because i run emerald management.You can buy various bits to lag fuel lines etc off of the bay, you could also try to prime your fuel system twice before starting your car (turn ignition on until the fuel pump stops, then repeat before starting). Link to post Share on other sites
CALICO 130 Posted May 23, 2010 Report Share Posted May 23, 2010 http://www.momentummotorparts.com/store/engine.asphttp://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorcycle/Tuning/Heat_Management/CoolIt_Thermo_Sleeve/663/2026links to both for you Link to post Share on other sites
Phat VR6 3 Posted May 23, 2010 Report Share Posted May 23, 2010 My car is very reluctant to start when hot' date=' but i can adjust the hot start fueling so it does, because i run emerald management.You can buy various bits to lag fuel lines etc off of the bay, you could also try to prime your fuel system twice before starting your car (turn ignition on until the fuel pump stops, then repeat before starting).[/quote']my fuel pump only started when my engines turning over.. means its on for about 3 seconds before it starts. but starts first time after its been running..guessing its ment to turn on on the 2nd stage of it ignition? is there something wrong with it you recon? Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted May 23, 2010 Report Share Posted May 23, 2010 The fuel pump should prime when ignition is on, then come on again while cranking and stay on once engine is started.If you don't have any problems then i'd leave it mate, wiring can be a pain sometimes.... :-) Link to post Share on other sites
kie_dub 0 Posted May 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2010 Calico do you think there is a good chance that buying the 2 recommendations of yours will stop the problem im having from happening? because it comes to a few hundred quid, im willing to buy the stuff if it will be better for my car Link to post Share on other sites
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