Need power

[CHRISVR6 0]

was thinking of the rado inlet manifold or the shrick one. Any ideas or views? ie service when having a shrick etc, and how much difference do they make to the torque curve and power?

or is there anything else people would recomend?

[binliner 0]

lots of options... whats the budget and what exactly do you want to achieve?

remap, 6 speed box, supercharger, turbo, 2nd engine in the back with a turbo on each?

Schrick manifold is going to make a lot more difference than a 2.9 manifold... do a search and you'll find millions of useful posts about the schrick manifold and what difference it makes

[ Edited Tue Oct 05 2004, 10:54AM ]

[CHRISVR6 0]

Budget umm not sure really between 250-1000 for a decent gain, just want it to pull a bit harder. I have just got piston rings and valve stem oil seals done, oh and a head gasket so pretty good at the moment just need a tad more oomph.

[binliner 0]

tbh you won get a lot for that money... you should be able to find a schrick but you'll need another £400 to have a remap afterwards what year is it?

[ Edited Tue Oct 05 2004, 10:57AM ]

[binliner 0]

sorry you posted a reply while I was editing my first post!

[CHRISVR6 0]

Thats why i was thinking of a rado inlet manifold instead, i dont want a lot more power just to take it up to around the 200 mark, oh its a 1992 (dist type)

[andy 0]

Have you got an induction kit and decent exhaust, that's where most people start. Exhaust £250 - £400, air filter £30 - £200.

[CHRISVR6 0]

Exhaust is stock i think, different tail pipe but looks standard. I did have a K&N but put the stock one back on as it seems to pull better (less engine heat), plus it needs a damn good clean. Other than that i will be putting better sparkers and leads on, just a decent service really

[mark@vagworx 0]

If i was spending a £1000ish on a standard VR then i'd do the following.

Induction Kit - £60-£150

Aftermarket Cat-Back Exhaust - £250-£400

Remap - £400 by AmD

Had the above on my old Highline and it was a joy to drive. The remap eliminated the low down lack of grunt and it pulled like a steam train to the redline.

[six appeal 53]

Get yourself a 2nd hand shrick for it mate (see classifieds!), its without doubt the best mod I've ever done to mine.

[acf8181 0]

yep...i'd be patient and get a second hand schrik (nake sure you get the right one for your year...obd1 upto m plate, obd2 n plate on), then save up a bit more before you pop it on so you can get a remap done immediately.

[CHRISVR6 0]

Yeah so shrick is the way to go then. Has anyone had a rado manifold then? but i spose peeps with rado upgrade to a shrick so i will just do that then.

Cheers for the advice people nice one.

[acf8181 0]

i think the 'rado manifold will only make a very very mild improvement, where as the schrik makes big a difference (i want one ;( )

[DundeeDub 0]

i have one and it did make a difference, but it was ported out and its the early style so smoother air going to the engine, saying that i also added an enlarged throttle body and butterfly so that will have helped to

i still want a schrick but that will come in the future when i can afford it and the insurance for it

[Eat this 2]

slightly off topic how many miles u got on it hav the timin chain tensioners been changed if uv done more than 100k id consider gettin that done instead the last thing u need is the timin jumpin a couple of teeth at 6k rpm ping crunch sob

[acf8181 0]

depends on the year of the car to whether they'll be an issue...obd2's are much less prone to probs. and on obd1 its only the top blade tensioner that wears. not a bad idea to check that when you change manifolds.

[mightyvr6 0]

I'd go for the schrick

[mark@vagworx 0]

Surely a Schrick is more beneficial if you've got the usual malarky...exhaust, filter etc etc.

[mark@vagworx 0]

yep...i'd be patient and get a second hand schrik (nake sure you get the right one for your year...obd1 upto m plate' date=' obd2 n plate on), then save up a bit more before you pop it on so you can get a remap done immediately.[/quote']

Mine's an N Plate and OBD1

[acf8181 0]

you sure? thats throws that one out the window then...guess we'll never truely know where the switchover was then.

[Eat this 2]

lol 1 of lifes mysteries

[VRmonster 1]

with the obd debate going on, id like to throw into the mix that a lot of cars dont have original engines, as mine does not... so your theory may still be correct.

[tommy 0]

you sure? .

errr....I think mark knows his own car......... but yes it is obd1..........I can confirm as will olly..........ive seen many 'N' reg obd 1 vr...... early N-1995 which was 1,...late n was 2....................you really should reed that bently service manual more carefully next time......lol

[binliner 0]

guess we'll never truely know where the switchover was then.

I thought it was 96? so some N plate cars could be OBD1... mintys had early spec bumpers etc so its no surprise its OBD1... maybe the changeover was a bit of a gradual thing which would explain there being some exceptions to the rule... weirdest one Ive seen is an N plate highline with square side repeaters !

[tommy 0]

guess we'll never truely know where the switchover was then.

I thought it was 96? so some N plate cars could be OBD1... mintys had early spec bumpers etc so its no surprise its OBD1... maybe the changeover was a bit of a gradual thing which would explain there being some exceptions to the rule... weirdest one Ive seen is an N plate highline with square side repeaters !

Yeah ive seen one of them before........very strange !dodge

Minty vr is a N-95

[ Edited Tue Oct 05 2004' date= 11:13PM ]