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grassy

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  1. hi mate, yeah i remember talking to you. there another block on ebay now apparently this is the last one! the balancing was just a possiblity on mine i thought that they balance them at factory and to change the pistons would be a different weight. ill have to have my engine balaced this time as im using aftermarket internals. i knew as soon as i took the head off that the jets will of been the cause but there so many things that can cause problems. i havent bought the pistons yet so if i cant get it repaired ill over bore and get 2.9 pistons put in. luckily still have the jets to put in. pers
  2. just stripped the head off my vr6 it has clocked about 100 miles, it was a new block but it started knocking (very early stages) i looked inside the bores and all the cross weave scraches have been removed and has glaized over already and has scored the bores in places, you can just feel them catching your finger nail. (only just feel them fairly light) it was a new genuine block with new pistons and rings all new and genuine! and the whole thing needs rebuilt again, im going to turbo it so ive already bought forged con rods just need the pistons. can i repair the bore just by honing the
  3. im not sure its that at least i dont think it is. timing chains and guides are all new. ive done 600 trouble free miles. its in a mk2 the first engine i had was a new rebuilt one but it started knocking badly which i knew was bottom end so i pulled it out, bought a replacement engine transfered a few parts over to run it on obd1 wiring loom as it was and obd2 engine originally. but now im having problems. it sounded like a bit of a mis-fire at over 4.5k rpm you could feel it really lacking in performance
  4. ill get one up for tomorrow. didnt do it when it was coldish, as it warmed up it got worse, i will film it all tomorrow. hoping its not bottom end, it will be the second engine to fail on me!
  5. My vr has started with a knocking noise as of Friday. I went to over take a car and when I put my foot down it didn't seem as powerful at high rpms like normal, I checked my oil temp and it went up pretty quick to about 106 which worried me but it was a very warm day is this normal. Barely see it go past 102 usually. Within 5 minutes of getting home coming up a hill I heard a knocking noise coming from it so I got home steady to save it. I'm unsure whether it Is a spark knock/preignition or rod knock. There is no noise at idle just between 2-3k rpm No lights are on the dash. Engine is obd1
  6. im in cumbria mate. currently looking at getting lowish milage replacement engine. drained the oil today and you can see very fine particles of metal in it. its had 2 oil changes both had bad oil when changed. need a car to get to work so ill take this one out and put all my new parts on to another engine and split the engine down and sell any good parts
  7. VR6 AAA OBD1 around 50 odd miles on the engine yesterday i was on my way to a car show in my golf which ive just carried out a full rebuild to the engine. i drove it 30 miles before setting off and it was working fine. i set of as normal and just stuck to 60, 9 miles down the road the oil light started flashing so i pulled over and waited 10 minutes for the oil to cool down/ for oil to return to the sump. i checked it and it was only a couple markings down on the dipstick so i topped it up till it was full. got back in and set off again and within 1 mile it was back on, i accelerated a l
  8. i cant remember if they were wet now. i tried to sniff them if there was any fuel but ive got a cold so i couldnt smell anything. spark plugs are all brand new. ill be having a look over at the weekend to see if it sparking correctly.
  9. finnaly got my vr6 conversion started after 4 months of building it up but i noticed straight away that it had a bad misfire. i felt the exhaust manifold pipes and you could tell that cylinders 1 and 3 are not firing as it was cold compared to the others. i pulled out the spark plugs 1 and 3 and they are still clean and i pulled out spark plug 2 and you can see blackness from when it was running so cylinder 2 is fine. the engine block is new with a full set of new pistons rings ect. it is obd1 and i followed a guide for the firing order and have since then re checked it. when building th
  10. all sorted. it was a poor earth as it still didnt work when a new starter was put in
  11. just complete the engine conversion on my mk2 with a vr6 engine went to start it the other day and when i turned the key to position 3 the solenoid clicked but the motor didnt turn over. i took out the starter and bench tested it and it wasnt working properly so i stripped the whole thing down cleaned it all up ect put it back together and bench tested it and it worked properly. i put it back in the car and it turned the engine over for 5 seconds then i turned the key back and went to try it again then had nothing. it didnt turn over lightning fast so i thought maybe a flat battery. i charge
  12. yeah i can make sense of it now mate thanks for that its back in now!
  13. I have just removed the breather pipe from the cam cover to the intake pipe and inside of the pipe was a reel of copper wire is there any particular reason for this? i bought this engine second hand to put in the mk2 and it was claimed to be a well maintained engine which was a pack of lies as ive had to replace the majority of parts on it. is there a reason to why he might of put it in there? it should be clear so there is no crank pressure. also which way does the arrow face on the plug, does it face towards the cam cover or into the intake pipe and also what is it used for. its a little tr
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