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Sump_slammer

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Everything posted by Sump_slammer

  1. Sump_slammer
    Note when testing the sensors signal wire it needs to be pluged in. Otherwise it wont do owt.
  2. Sump_slammer
    Check all your earths are good. Main earths to engine by the gearbox and the small earth near the throttle body. A poor earth can cause low voltage faults as resistance goes up volts comes down. Also take the knock sensors off and make sure the block face is clean no paint just shinney metal give it a good sand with a sanding block. Also make sure theres oil in it. Low oil level will cause the engine to knock. Theres 3 wires going to a knock sensor, live, earth and a signal. Check to make sure your getting a good feed and earth then check the sensors are working by probing into the signal wire
  3. Sump_slammer
    Good luck i posted on here months ago for a lsd you need to buy one new
  4. Sump_slammer
    You didnt read my first post then! Ive got a rebuilt head and new chains. This forum is usless no one can source a engine for a car everyone is here for. Waste of time im going to scrap my vr total load of rubbish!
  5. Sump_slammer
    Yeh buddy looks the tits. Dont know how you stay motivated building a car to a good standards hard but to this must have been a nightmare
  6. Sump_slammer
    Bump O G Bump If you know of any decent lumps for sale please let me know! Still after a decent lump. Yes there are some on ebay. But they are all high milage worn out items or they have no proof of milage.
  7. Sump_slammer
    Blowing out. Its a sign of piston blow by. Same a worn out rs turbos blowing oil caps off apart from vr oil caps are screw on - thank god ha
  8. Sump_slammer
    Yea, left hand side of the rocker cover theres the pipe that goes to your pcv valve then to the intake pipe. Carefully pull that off, because the pcv's are a little fragile if they're old. Then run it up have a feel see how much pressure their is or how much blue smoke is coming out. Shouldn't really see any smoke from it.
  9. Sump_slammer
    Another check is the top breather take the pipe off and see how much pressure is there with it running should be near on none on a naturally aspirated vr. If its breathing fairly heavy its your rings. How much millage is it on? Valve guides will more than likely need doing if its over 100k. But you will only know once you have got it apart for valve guides and all the valve springs off. When the heads off move the piston to bottom dead centre then feel around the top of the bore where the piston stops if theres a ridge then your bores are worn too. Unfortunately these engines are becoming ra
  10. Sump_slammer

    Startermotor

    Sump_slammer posted a topic in Wanted

    Another broken bit on the vr, anyone got a spare?
  11. Sump_slammer
    After a full engine
  12. Sump_slammer
    Bump no one got a decent lump for sale?
  13. Sump_slammer

    Vr6 engine

    Sump_slammer posted a topic in Wanted

    After a decent vr6 engine low milage if possible. Not too fussed at obd1 or obd2 as ive recently rebuild a head. Would like proof of milage if its a low mile item or to hear and see running before removal. Cheers Steve.
  14. Sump_slammer
    Im a paid club member where abouts is this?
  15. Sump_slammer
    Was your vr using oil too pete? My vr has definitely had a hard life as the rude boy who owned it before took me for a test drive in it and hammered the living death out of it up the road from cold. I knew this was the sort of life it has put up with with the last 14 owners but we all like a little project. Gordon your thinking along the same lines as me. First step I'm going to pull the plugs out and inspect them for signs of burning oil to hopefully pin point the faulty cylinders and follow it up with a compression test to verify the rings as there should be no faults with the valves.
  16. Sump_slammer
    Before I start pulling my lump apart again im just wanting to get a few opinions and sound my thoughts over the last few days. This 150,000 mile 12 valve vr6 engine has seen better days, its puffing blue smoke from the exhuast. You can make it burn oil by rolling along at say 4000rpm off the throttle and let the revs slowly come down for about 8 seconds then when you gave it a foot full, there was a large cough of blue smoke. Fitted the new guides and valves and genuine stem seals genuine headgasket. Ran my new cams in and bedded my clutch in for 500miles then started to give it abit of a hoof
  17. Sump_slammer
    The gains are you dont have a worn out block. If the rings are gone chances are you need a overbore. I was telling you a cheep real world way of doing it without ending up spending £3000 rebuilding a bottom. May aswell use low comp piston and build it over the top. At least it wont break.
  18. Sump_slammer
    Also if you blew you head gasket at 8psi with standard compression I imagine it was on its way out, because ns tunning told me in the 15 years they have been fitting the vortech chargers they have never fitted a spacer plate. Stealth say theres no need to on low boost apps. Im just voicing what the pro's have told me. If he wants to go low comp he can do it, im just saying how to build a engine without it spiraling out of control cost wise. We would all like a low comp bottom end with h beam rods all studded out but it adds up. Im just saying a cost efficient way thats been proven to work. Do
  19. Sump_slammer
    12 psi on a v1? I was told on a charger like a v2 not to go past 8psi by the people who supply the kits and who tune them. They also said no neeed to lower the compression. Im just going off what the people who tune these every day tell me as im building a bottom end atm myself. So how has your v1 held up at 12psi? I was told 8 was there limit. Did you have to get a uprated core fitted to the supercharger so you can go up on the boost? I saw a chap at london volksfest who had a vf9 vortech and said it was on 17psi?? But with a 5 psi drop through the intercooler.
  20. Sump_slammer
    I new I saw the specs on here somwhere. This was a quote from united motorsports. Factory 2.8 is 81mm bore - 2792cc Factory 2.9 is 82mm bore - 2861cc 83mm bore will give 2931cc (2.9) 84mm bore will give 3002cc The bore size alone on these engines makes ~no difference to output on these engines.
  21. Sump_slammer
    Theres no point if its only 8 psi. Ive spoke to stealth racing and ns tuning and they said theres no need. Plus with a supercharger if its vortech you cant run a v1 or v2 over 8psi because its on its limit. If you go turbo on the other hand yea go for lower compression ratios because you'll end up winding the boost up past 10psi then it'll start to strain the bottom end and can risk detonation. When they map it with standard internals they will just go a little more easy on the timing and fuel. But the amount you'll gain for a set of £800 pistons is hardly worth it at low boost.
  22. Sump_slammer
    So 2.8 bored to 2.9 with standard 2.9 pistons bored with a torque plate lol had to read it though again
  23. Sump_slammer
    I spoke to stealth about this yesterday. Standard pistons are fine no need for fancey pistons. Only problem is if you get a re bore you need bigger pistons. So probs just go 2.9 with standard pistons. Would be the cheepest way. Altho if your getting it bored out youll need a tourque plate which you can buy from bar tek to make sure everything stays as if the heads bolted on so they dont machine it on the piss. With 8 psi if you want to go all out arp rod and head bolts. But even then they arnt needed.
  24. Sump_slammer
    How did you get to that conclusion?
  25. Sump_slammer
    NS tunning. There web site is rubbish but give them a call they're helpful people. Think they quoted me £2200 inc vat for a whole kit. That was injectors software the lot. But they only do stage 1 software. But tbh if you going down this route its best getting it live mapped at stealth racing and buying the 8psi pulley and using water methanol injection to cool the intake temps thats another £400. Adds up quick to make it worth while.
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