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Everything posted by rsweeney
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if your rocker cover is plastic you need part number : 021103483D if it is metal you need : 021103483B
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best bet is to check with VW but having worked on vr6's for the last 5 years i can guarantee its G12 which is red
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im sure the correct coolant to use is G12 which is Red/Pink .
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My auto box was awful when i got the car. It was in limp mode and needed attention. by the sounds of it you can quite easily sort your problems out. If your remove the gearbox you will get to the torque converter and there are many companies which recondition these, i used these guys and they were great http://www.automatic-gearbox.co.uk/ costing roughly £150. My wiring harness on the valve body had snapped so needed replacing, very easy to do just 4 bolts to remove the sump and then you have access. If the valve body has issues you can remove it quite easily following this guide http://forum
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double check but I remember reading in the bentley manual that the auto boxes (096 and 01M) used on the vr6's are the same as used on some smaller engined golfs. what's wrong with yours? you can get the rebuilt to give peace of mind or try ebay
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and would it be worth the extra money getting the shell dipped by somewhere like Enviro strip/ SPL instead of it going straight to the workshop as it is? these are the guys I have been in touch with Enviro strip - http://www.envirostripukltd.com/ Paint & rust removal / inhibitor - £895At this point i would need to take the car elsewhere for welding2pk whole vehicle - £395They admitted the process SPL offer but is more through but a lot more expensive SPL - http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/index.html Paint & rust removal / inhibitor - £845At this point i would need to take t
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I am trying to find the best place in the UK to get the body shell of my mk3 golf vr6 sorted and fully resprayed ? its a 5 door and it needs the following repaired - rusted sills , sections of floor pan, rust at door rubber joins, possibly a bit of rust on the arches i am keeping the car for sure i just need advice on the best place to sort this out in the UK After trying a few places I came up with CBR who sounded fairly decent http://www.cbrmotorbodies.co.uk/classic-car-restoration/ Cheers
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There is a seam weld where the panels join underneath the rear lights which tends to rust through and let water in , if you take the rear bumper off you will be able to check this - only 6 10mm bolts from memory ! Or just remove your carpet under the lights and check for holes
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just seen that so new plug and sensor , would be ideal if i could get the OEM sensor as it would be a straight fit - http://www.ecstuning.com/ES1369/Notify/
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I'm after a fan switch, looking at it the standard thermostat opens at 80 degrees and the standard fan switch puts 1st speed on at 95 degrees. I think its better to change the fan switch and keep the standard thermostat as it will still let the engine heat up quickly but keep things below 90 using the fans
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Has anyone installed this OEM fan switch to their vr6, part number : 1H0959481D instead of the standard : 1H0959481B Only differences are switching temnperatures , it seems to only be available in the states but going to try and order through VW. If not where can i get a low temp fan switch in the UK ? cheers
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The water gushing sound is because with OEM hoses there is a little one way valve in the coolant hose going into the throttle body , the Samco hose doesn't come with this so remove it from OEM hose and push it into the Samco, this sorted the trapped air noise your referring to !
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whats the best upgrade for the standard golf vr6 rad?
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thanks for the pictures ssaunder, but after looking into it im going to go with the hella celis lights
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Spot on Just sent you pm
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Want to update the lights on the vr6, headlights tail lights, indicators, fogs etc its dragon green with black borbets so ideally lights to suit this let me know what you have !
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obd 2 timing chain/guides
rsweeney replied to Forthew1ngs's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
i used the newer OBD2 type tensioner guide and bolt instead of the OBD1 setup , seems to be working well as an upgrade -
ok cheers just thought the early ones had metal caps and the later type where metal ?
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aux pump is working , but yeah the auto box has an oil cooler on top which means it will be picking up heat from there as well so could be. next plan is a spare oil cooler i have for the gearbox as well as a new oil cooler for the engine Thanks mate sounds promising i will give this a go as i havent changed this as yet, does it matter which one you go for as there are two types?
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Not sure but will try the sensor out of my other vr6 which doesn't have the same issue once it comes back from the body shop
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Pressure test done no leaks at 1bar, fans kick in and belt is good, when driving the temp stays down around 90, only goes above to around 95 when crawling slowish in traffic but fans pull it back to under 90. Oil is sitting around 96-98 , it's an auto so may be why it runs hotter but don't know if these temps are normal.
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thermostat is a new genuine part, its got full circulation as all the pipes are hot and i've tried bleeding the cooling system a few times but there are still small bubbles of air when you feel the upper matrix hose! trying a spare expansion cap today as i have a feeling that its not keeping system under pressure
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problem is with my 1994 golf vr6, just changed headgasket, rebuilt cylinder head and runs sweet as a nut, however oil temp and coolant temp seem to be slightly high. on a gentle drive around 35mph oil sits at 98-100, coolant 90 but creeps just shy of 100 sometimes if moving slowler. Cylinder head has been rebuilt, new shell HX7 10w40 oil and genuine VW filter, hydraulic lifters, NGK Spark plugs, lambda sensor, inlet manifold temp sensor, all gaskets etc. Runs really smooth, no leaks, but noticed there isn't masses of pressure in the cooling system ( water pump is clearly working as i can s
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yeah, for the £90 it costs to replace clutch im going to do it and fingers crossed it sorts the crunch out, if not at least it will get rid of the judder just wouldnt have thought a clutch issue would be temperature related ?!