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Lukey.

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Everything posted by Lukey.

  1. what offest are they? I have ET35 17x7.5J and dont get rubbing on the side of the arch, only when the wheel actually touches the top of the arch 5 up
  2. Ive pretty much got all of the interior in now, along with the momo pitstop handbrake and gaiter and the new golf GTI pedals. The body coloured pillar trims look totally awesome all polished up! I also ran a power wire from the interior light to the footwells as i fancy putting in sub lighting at some point. I was all ready to put my seats back in when i picked them up and theyve got p!ss wet through where they were sat, not noticeable to the eye but when i picked them up they were wet where they were sat. Lets say i got a little bit annoyed.. Ah well every cloud has a silver lining, i got to
  3. would leaky seals make it run constantly? i had a leaky boot cylinder but the pump only ran for about 30 secs before stopping
  4. is your battery keeping charge? clock resetting itself and the motor not running for the CL
  5. is your shark fin amplified? if it is it should have an extra wire like the red one on mine. and are you using the oem head unit or aftermarket? If the aerial has the amplifier lead then you can run an amplify cable to it regardelss of if youre using the oem head unit or aftermarket and If you are using the oem head unit then youll need to run a cable just to an ignition live as it only needs a 12v feed and the aerial power will be tucked away unlabeled in the stock loom. If you are using an aftermarket head unit you can run a cable to either the blue wire (antenna power) or the blue and white
  6. That was the outside done for now. Excpet the whole flatting the whole car off with 2000 then polishing up so you can shave in it! But thats one of the last things. Onto the interior With the headlinder dropping as no pillar trims were in i installed my new aerial as the old one was wrekced and the seal had weathered away to nothing. Not everyones thing the sharkfin, (I prefer aero ) but i like it, its been body coloured and ive run an aerial amplification lead to the head unit down the nearside fastened to the aerial wire then down the A-pillar. In blue as thats the colour of the aerial power
  7. Ive put the 1 series rear wiper on with a longer blade form a mk5 golf, its not quite long enough but ive seen an a4 estate uses a longer aero blade but ive still to measure, ill look into it further when its worn out though, its stopping on till then Ive also put a new stalk set on, my old ones were very stiff and quite hard to flick up and down, constantly felt like they were going to break off, no pics though, as its just stock stalks, not very interesting. I have seam sealed everywhere that was welded up now, which was a couple of dirty days crawling around under the car on ramps and stan
  8. they are auto art by the looks of it, best contact them, http://www.autoartltd.co.uk/index.php
  9. have a look at that and compare to your ones http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=R32BBK uk-mkivs says brake lines are different for fronts, and stock rears are already the exact same size as R32s
  10. when i was in audi circles people were fitting R32 brakes to them just bolting them on, though you dont know if A3s have different lines to the mk4 without comparing. and theres a man on ebay flogging 312 tt carriers, but for 95 quid a set
  11. have they all got top and bottom memory on one close? maybe they all just need resetting to re learn top and bottom. Ive always managed to do this just by opening the window while holding the button down for a few seconds more than the window takes to go all the way down, then doing the same thing up. If it dont work first time I just do it a couple more times and eventually they all work on 1 touch open close again then my total closure works
  12. I plan on this one being a lifer, its paid for and the money its going to get on it getting back to "as new" or even as the boys like to say OEMPlus, as Im integrating some modern tech into her old soul, its not going to be worth selling, or rather its worth more to me than anyone would pay, and if i dont run it for a while id just SORN it. Ive become quite attatched to the old girl in the process of healing her ailments
  13. My approach to rust is remove it! If you cant remove it, do as much as you can, get as much as you can off and treat the rust as best you can to try and prevent any further rust, my method was to jenolite any traces that couldnt be removed and zinc prime absolutely everything that was worked on. This whole car anywhere there was rust found this was the action taken. I have plans yes, but I want to get everything sound first. Im sorting the body out then next will probably be engine strip and rebuild/upgrade at the same time. Being an 80k engine thats 12 years old I dont know its history and d
  14. While waiting for the car to get in the booth I did a few other jobs just to add a finishing touch here and there First I made a tidy bracket for the nearside headlight ballast, finished in satin black Cleaned up a space for the offside ballast to mount nicely Then noticed how awful the bracket is bent for my CDA So I tidied that right up with an anvil and a bending press, then mounted it with two of the tensioner bolts instead of just the one, increasing the rigidity of the bracket and the clearance between it and the surrounding area I then got busy on the centre console, I wanted
  15. Took the rear window out, worse than i thought Stripped back to have a cleaner look To take my mind off the bombshell of all that rot  i went about fixing the flintstones footwell Plate shaped to fit Haaaalike a glove All bits zinc primed, welded up all nice, then fully covered with zinc primer And the window zinc primed and filled up with fresh metal Then it was time to attack the rear arch All nastiness removed Hello! Plate fabricated to fill corroded gap
  16. Took the rear window out, worse than i thought Stripped back to have a cleaner look To take my mind off the bombshell of all that rot  i went about fixing the flintstones footwell Plate shaped to fit Haaaalike a glove All bits zinc primed, welded up all nice, then fully covered with zinc primer And the window zinc primed and filled up with fresh metal Then it was time to attack the rear arch All nastiness removed Hello! Plate fabricated to fill corroded gap
  17. I bought my VR6 in august, it had Morette headlights, a K&N, a scorpion letterbox cat back, manky MOMO race gearknob and steering wheel and 17" BBS RC324 wheels ( I think these are the same as Mk4 anni wheels) I got the original wheels too which was nice. It looked ok if a little rough round the edges with only 80k and RECARO interior and an awful sony headunit. I have pics but dont have them as of writing this, i will post them up later on. I wasnt bothered that little stuff needed to be done as I was looking for a little project to give me something to do. Bit of paint here and there
  18. would be a shame, yours looks really well
  19. yea ive basically stripped my car right out and sorted anything i can find and given it a full respray (with a few custom touches on the way too) while i was on. Having crumbled the front window seals when pulling them off i can tell you that was a costly mistake to be so rough with them, £140 the set! Im lucky that i can work on it all day, have been for some weeks now, still have no interior in the car, im up to making sure all the floor bungs are sealed up good and laying the padding and carpets back down. Still a long way from completion as along the way you always think of "oh i could do
  20. nah mate its on the back of the headlight switch, if he does everything above he should be sorted. The only headlight switches that differ are the ones with headlight level adjustment dials, but seeing as they are flashing i am presuming he doesnt have that feature.
  21. I was wrong about the gearknob i have its a race air leather, and this topic made me think how battered it all is except the wheel so ive ordered new momo kit, race air leather gearknob, performance black leather gear gaiter, pitstop brushed steel handbrake handle and pitstop black leather gaiter. damn site making me spend money
  22. a shitload!! put it this way i checked the price of 2 outer sills and it was near £500 if you havent got that much check hadrian
  23. dont know the exact thread size but they are self tapping 8mm headed fixed washer bolts about an inch long you can get them in big bags from DIY shops cheaper than VW
  24. I wish i had the cojones to do that as i thought about doing mine in matte black but the fact they arent available anymore and be f*cked if im paying £200 for a new set off some twat
  25. how did you go about contacting VOSA about this mate? I have just gone through the same thing with mine, havent finished yet its only just got back on its wheels but while it was in pieces had everything i could do done to it. Ive actually replaced both sills and rear arches for it, patched the drivers footwell and made sure the passenger footwell was sealed properly. Both sills were shagged due to some tool jacking it up right in the middle. Aswell as all springs being snapped and excessive play in all top mounts, which have been replaced with AP coilovers and new mounts. This car passed an
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