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Reido

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Everything posted by Reido

  1. Mine used to be a little "crunchie"! from 1st to second when cold, All sorted with a gearbox oil change. The coils on these are rubbish, I would put a bet on it that its the coil. The management system wont turn the check light on until it gets really bad but there will be a code logged for missfire. Try not to leave for too long as it can damage the cat when missfiring. hope this helps
  2. I can recommend the H&R ones. had them on the 4motion for 6 years or so.
  3. The miss fires are most probably the Coil pack. On the 2000 year engines (AUE usually) the coil pack is bolted onto the nearside side of the engine. Right hand side as you look at it and it has 6 ignition leads going to the spark plugs. It is one main sealed block containing the coils. (Later engines have individual coils that plug straight into the spark plugs). The problem is, overtime the casing develops hairline cracks which then allows the spark to leak out through the outer casing thus the missfires develop. It becomes apparent more often when it is damp outside. The main pack is
  4. If they fitted a genuine VW part, the part itself it will be covered under the 2 year warranty. Go and have a chat with them and see what they say they might be ok about it and fix it for ya. At least if you go in for a chat about it you will know where you stand. Good luck
  5. Right then, My 2.8 4motion, engine (Code AUE) has the 1 ignotion coil pack bolted to the side of the engine block. I am threaders with having to replace this thing every few years due to hairline cracks in its casing causing missfires, I dont know how VW or Beru (oe suplier) can get away with selling and making money from such poor quality parts that fail so often. I know there are several boge job repairs that can be done involving araldite or similar but to avoid this happening again I am wondering if anyone has looked into using part of the loom from newer models to convert to the later t
  6. Hi mate, I would look at an X Reg or older to be honest. Y reg onwards have a higher (Emmisions) tax band. check for the Usual Mk 4 golf stuff on these. Look out for the well documented Fan failure, ensure it has full service history including the haldex oil service every 40K miles. If you do get one I recommend to have a 4wheel laser alignment carried out to ensure everything is as it should be. A Vagcom check is good before you buy too. Catalytic converters are expensive so worth checking for fault codes. I run winter tyres on mine during the colder months and it behaves brilliantly in the
  7. Mixed driving not paying attention to economy I get 320 miles to a tank here, Can get 350-370 if I drive like a granny using it for commuting!! 390 on a long 60-70mph motorway run if Im feeling like a very lucky granny!! Yours does seem a bit poor but not that much out from what you could expect. They are very thirsty in tstop start own traffic, especialy if not taken gently on the throttle. Can you get fault codes read see if theres any gremlins lurking ??
  8. Cheers Lukey , Looks like a good website there, Prices seem good too. will keep that in mind next time the battery is due. 851 corsa, your welcome mate, I Think it would have been Michelins primacy's back in 2000. Michelins are expensive but they wear well. I tend to go for Michelin, Vredestin or continentals depending on my budget at the time. I Try to keep the 4 tyres the same brand ect if possible. Not the end of the world if its not possible, just gives more predictable (safer) handling. Keep us updated on how you get on.
  9. I have a W Reg 4motion, I have changed the battery but I upgraded to a larger output one. The original factory fit is the black VW one made by Varta. The replacement one I bought from VW in 2005 was an original factory fit VW one (made by Varta) it was just a larger size and output. I had to get rid of the cloth cover for it because of its bigger size though. I intended to buy a hard plastic case as fitted to the later models but never got round to it and I doubt I will ever bother now. Varta batterys are made by BOSCH so either or will do if you are after an OEM supplier. I wouldnt buy a
  10. sorted, My wheel bearing housings are 8N0407255E and 8N0407256E for PR G0L (BFH engine) so i need wheel bearing 8L0498625. Would be interesting to find out what the differences are in the two wheel bearing kits though.
  11. Things are getting confusing!! lol ! I think it hinges on the part numbers of my hub carriers as they are listed in ETKA with PR G0L and G0R too-----match my hub carriers with the right pr numbers and that should do. I will have a look at the hubs and do a bit more digging.
  12. I find that the other way around , LOL 8L0 498 625 wheel bearing with mounting parts PR-G0L:BFH = 6-speed manual transmission for four-wheel drive vehicle 8L0 498 625 A wheel bearing with mounting parts PR-G0R:BFH = 6-speed automatic transmission for four-wheel drive vehicle But 8L0 498 625 A is also listed for PR G0L with engine code BML !!
  13. thanks for your help, have you any idea what the differences are in the kits? I am assuming the parts came from a manual car as I bolted on the driveshafts that came with the parts.
  14. Hi all, Looking for a bit of help with my car. I have a mk4 golf 2.8 4motion that I have fitted with R32 hubs wishbones ect. The parts came from a 2003 golf R32 I need new wheel bearings but I dont have a chassis no or reg to give dealers to locate the correct kit. At the dealer they have 2 part numbers. 8L0 498 625 A - ( on back order ) and 8L0 498 625 I have checked the PR numbers listed in ETKA but still makes no sense! can anyone shed any light on what the differences are in the kits? Thanks in advance any help appreciated.
  15. Done, Piece of cake! motor @ 75k miles. No torque wrench setting applied, just tightened a reasonable ammount by hand with ratchet, didnt use copper slip or anything as the threads on the ones that came out were in great condition after 36k miles and what i worked out to be over 6 years since they were last changed! There was no debris down in the recesses but just gave a quick blow ( eh! ) to make sure it was clear. Thanks to all who had input to this and i hope it helps other people out too.
  16. Theres a special tool for removing coil packs but you can usually improvise with things that are lying around in the bottom of a toolbox. I haven’t tried it on a VR6 but on the other half’s lupo I use cable ties looped under the coil and pull them. They need a bit of a yank but if your careful and they are pulled inline with the plug its fine.
  17. Cheers, I think i will just do that mate, I am a bit obsessed with things being at the right torque but i suppose its not critical with spark plugs....just as long as there not so loose so they slacken off or so tight they strip the threads or are a pig to remove next time.
  18. Thanks Bungy, Will do that:-d Does anyone have a reliable source for the torque wrench setting when doing them up? Ive found a few conflicting settings. 25Nm, and 20Nm??? And whats peoples views on using an dab of copper slip on the threads? (Ive never used it on spark plugs.)
  19. Hi all, The 4motion is just passing 75K miles and spark plugs are needing changed soon, they were last changed at 40Kservice. (ive had spare new OEM NGK plugs sitting in boot for 3 years now, LOL!!) Engine code is AUE and it has 1 main coil transformer with the HT leads. (ie not individual coils) Change interval is 40Kmiles, although I dont think theres a time limit on them? Anyhoo! Just wondering if theres any special VW sparkplug socket needed to change them or if a standard spark plug socket will do the job? Any help appreciated, Cheers
  20. The only adjustment I have on the rear is Forge adjustable rear arms. When they adjusted them for camber it probably sorted the toe too? It was set up and adjusted as per an R32 with sports suspension. Rear Before adjustment Left camber -0deg 46 Right Camber -1deg 04 Left toe 0deg05 Right toe 0deg17 After Left camber -1deg19 Right Camber -1deg19 Left toe 0deg08 Right toe 0deg09 Although the rear was out before adjustment I didnt have any uneven tyre wear or anything.
  21. All sorted now. Big thanks to Star performance. Turns out the rear was out a bit too. Front was all over the place. No more ESP Issues.
  22. The traction control is going mad because you didn't fit the R32 steering rack. Doh! I read that the usual problems with traction control were when fitting the R32 rack and it was ok when fitting the other parts minus the rack? The 4motion CV joint has a male thread on the end that a nut is designed to go on The R32 CV joint has a female thread in the end that a bolt is designed to go in Yeah thats why I fitted the R32 driveshafts, just to save changing the hub flanges and bearings ect. The driveshafts cost me nothing really thats why I just fitted them. Going in at half 3 to be setup on las
  23. Got this job done today aswell. R32 hubs, wishbones, driveshafts, tierods, new brake disk shields ect. New bushes, nuts n bolts everywhere I could as i went. New droplinks and Superpro ARB bushes. The R32 driveshafts were an 8NO Audi part no and my 4motion ones were a 1J0 VW golf mk4 part no. I couldnt see any difference in their length or diameter ect just different at the end where it fits into the hubs. not a problem for me as I was fitting all R32 hubs ect anyway. All fitted fine. glad I didnt try this at home as we had to raise the engine to remove the wishbone bolt on the drivers sid
  24. Right finaly got this done! Short version (sorry no photos ect) Removed the cat and exhaust Split and removed rear half of propshaft. removed heatshields ect that were in the way. Removed bolts that hold front of fueltank and it dropped enough to enable the removal and replacement of the brake pipe. Had to carefuly bend brake pipe to get it in place but it bent back no probs. Under the tank there were no clips holding the pipe up, just the wee rubber buffers along the pipe. Wouldnt try this without ramps though. I also changed the brake flexi pipes by the rear axle/swing arms for braided it
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