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ip

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Everything posted by ip

  1. ip
    Having replace the whole front suspension set up (everything) I still have a creaking/knocking from the front of the car. Assuming this is not because I have fitted something incorrectly (I'm fairly sure it's all good), it could be the steering rack. Who's done one of these and how terrible a job is it? ip
  2. ip
    Mine does this too and I believe it is basically the gearbox. The whole thing whines a bit until the oil is warm and has generally been thrown around all over the gears (non scientific explanation there). I found that when I put redline MT-90 into the box it did a lot to reduce this noise but it also stopped syncro from working in 2nd and 3rd gears. So, I moved back to the recommended VW G52 synthetic gearbox oil (specced for the V6 4Motion gearbox) and put up with a little noise until for the first 2 mins of running and enjoy the benefit of syncro instead. If yours is whining for much longer
  3. ip
    These diagrams seem to be using odd terms for the items they depict. The strut bearing they refer to would normally be called the top mount (in my experience). The ball bearing listed in the second picture would then be referred to as the strut bearing (again in my experience). In the first diagram, the topmount and strut bearing (ball bearing) are pictured as a single item (maybe they are sold as a single bonded item? I don't know) called the strut bearing. Critically, the nut goes on after this as it clamps the ball bearing assembly to the top of the spring plate. In the second diagram, the
  4. ip
    Thanks for the link. Very useful. Looks like my knocking/creaking is unrelated to the engine mounts though. Took it out for a spin last night and noises started to happen when steering and braking more than when accelerating. Haven't a clue what it could be. Could b the steering rack I guess since I get the noise when rolling the wheels from lock to lock while parking but not sure why this would also give such loud knocking/creaking noises when braking/accelerating. Either way, since not likely engine mounts I had better take this thread to the suspension/steering part of the forum. Cheers, ip
  5. ip
    Had a swatch around but can't find the guide you metion. If you could find it on your laptop that would be much appreciated. ip
  6. ip

    Gear change slop

    ip replied to ip's topic in Transmission

    I see what the problem is here mate. You're reading the part number from below the description (for example, 1H0711188B is written below driver). If you look carefully though you'll see that there are shaded boxes and that the description (relay driver for example) actually refers to the part number above it. Hope that makes sense. Rest assured, I used these numbers to order the parts from VW and I got the right bits. ip
  7. ip
    Not sure at all but I'v fitted new shocks, springs, wishbones, ball joints, arb links, track rod ends and topmounts all in the last month so I'm working through a process of elimination. Pretty much the only parts left are the engine mounts! The engine does move but only when you do the pulling away with the handbrake on trick (one way to test mounts I believe). Even then, it doesn't move much. Beyond the the engine mounts I'm out of ideas. I feel a trade in coming on ip
  8. ip
    Anyone else got any old springs kicking around in ther garage?
  9. ip
    I wasn't aware of the second pump either. However, the pump that sits n the tank is a two stage pump itself. It includes a low pressure high volume 'lifter pump' that lifts fuel from the tank and a second low volume high pressure pump (4 bar) that pressurises the fuel line. However, these sit in the one housing and can only be replaced as a complete unit (as I gather you have already done). Having spent a LOT of time under my car recently I can't say I've noticed anything else in the fuel line except the fuel filter itself. BTW, a cracked or blocked fuel filter might cause your issue. You can
  10. ip
    And the fan doesn't run when the engine is running (except for when properly hot of course)?
  11. ip
    How long does the fan stay on for after you remove the key?
  12. ip
    Cheers mate. PM'd him.
  13. ip
    Does anyone have a set of original front springs from a pre 1995 golf vr6 (80mm pigtails rather than 66mm pigtails on later cars) that they'd like to sell? I'd like to try out a wee experiment with some but can't find a set on ebay. Cheers, ip
  14. ip
    The guy who runs the shop (that I sent you the link for) seems to dismantle VR6s for a living/hobby. If you can wait, send him an email asking him to let you know next time he has one. He hooked me up with a new belt tensioner this way. Nice guy and doesn't seem to sell tat.
  15. ip
    £95 seems a bit much. Often one you get fairly new ones for around £40. This guy often has them (though not today): http://stores.ebay.co.uk/fircof1-Corrado-VR6-Spares_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ0QQftidZ2QQtZkm Honda integra is a nice car and about as far removed from a VR6 as you can get. There's even an outside chance that it will run for more than a fortnight without breaking down! ip
  16. ip
    Tickover of 680rpm is almost perfect. These cars can tickover happily down to 650rpm! Good news on the lack of fault codes. Not sure what the ABS sensor is telling you though. I think coilpack sounds most likely at this point. The vag-com system on the mk3 was never fast enough to pick up miss fires so coilpack failures don't tend to show up. ip
  17. ip
    Noise is no worse at any point lock to lock and steering is smooth across full range lock to lock. Exhaust is properly attached with a full set of new mounts (yes I'm clearly obsessive). What's worse, compression tested the engine on Saturday and got 11 bar on every cylinder. So the engine is sweet and I have no excuse to get shot of the car. Looks like I'll have to do as you say and wait for it to get bad enough for it to become obvious. Hope the wheels stay on in the meantime! ip
  18. ip
    The vagcat site should be okay. I used it to order the three plastic stat housing parts and all the required seals and bolts. The guy at the VW parts shop reckoned it is right 99% of the time. The only tip with vagcat is to make sure you are reading the part number that refers to the correct description (the part number is written above the description). The page you need is here: http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/GO/1995/159/49/1811374/ ip
  19. ip
    My car did this when I got it. Made it run badly (effectively like running the car with the chock on all the time) and the fuel economy was shocking. I went with a whole new thermostat housing since it was only and extra £15 and the old one was starting to crack. All part number sare easily found on www.vagcat.com. You need to register as a member but it is free and doesn't seem to result in any spam. Worth checking the temp sensors before replacing the stat (on my own car the blue temp sensor was also fritzed and this made matters even worse). Easy to test this once you have vag-com though.
  20. ip
    In my ongoing quest to sort out the creaking/knocking noise from the front of the car, it's been suggested I look at the engine mounts. So, stupid question: Where are they? I think I know of three but I'm not sure what they are called 1. There's obviously the front one that sits approx halfway along the front beam more or less beneath the radiator. 2. There's the large one that sits behind the engine on the driver's side (UK driver's side) and which sits within a large cup in the subframe. I'm guessing this is the rear engine mount. 3. There's a smaller looking one on the passenger side behind
  21. ip
    Cool, the engine does move when you try the handbraked test you describe but I'm not sure how much it is meant to do that. Some movement is obviously normal. Any guide to haow much movement I should expect? I'll do the test again and watch the mounts themselves and see if anything looks excessively worn. I'll get the torque wrench on all the affected bolts and see what's what. The bolts were all new though and the threads clean so 'd be surprised if any were loose. I'll give the ball joints a nuts nip though as I guess they could work lose as they bed in. Cheers, ip
  22. ip
    No other thoughts on this? Could a steering rack cause this problem?
  23. ip
    Winner. Assuming you have the car for a couple of years, this will pay for itself in no time. ip
  24. ip
    It's annoying but basically, your only real options are to either replace items one by one until it is fixed or get it on Vag-Com. You're right. vagcom won't highlight specific events like a misfire at 4000rpm but it will tell you if your lambda sensor, MAF or water temp sensor is giving consistently poor readings. If the lambda probe was out for example it would probably tick over fine but would run out of power at higher revs. In this case, the Vag-Com software would let you know if the lambda is out of cal. One simple test you could do would be to remove a couple of spark plugs and check th
  25. ip
    Under hard acceleration? I wish.The only driving I've been doing recently is to and from the parts shop! The fuel bills I can live with, it's the the constant repairs that are killing me. What's the best way to asses an engine mount's condition? If I lift the clutch and give it some revs with the handbrake on, the engine moves a lot in the engine bay but this seems expected to me. How much movement should I expect? Plus, the noise also happens when braking in reverse witht he clutch fully depressed (engine not loaded). So I'd kind of discounted the engine mounts on those grounds. Could anyone
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