ip
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Everything posted by ip
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no specific order. They just sit in the water flow.
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Third sensor is only for cars with air con. Car without aircon only have blue and yellow. Temp gauge on dash is fed from the yellow sensor. Blue sensor provides temp reading to ECU.
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Mine's a 95 so I've got the rectangular ones. No worries though as I found some decent ones on ebay after all. Had to search for repeaters rather than indicators. What country do these guys think they are selling in? ip
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I'm looking to replace the orange side indicators on my front wings with clear ones. Any idea where best to look for these. The ones on ebay look pretty cheap and nasty. ip
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Lifters are a medium scaled job. Difficult bit is removing and refitting the cams without screwing up the timing. I haven't done mine yet but expect to have to get around to it in the spring (when its a bit warmer to work outside on the car). Parts are around £100 not sure what labour would be. ip
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Easiest way to test is the screwdriver stethoscope. Set engine ticking over and work your way round the engine with the sharp end of the screwdriver pressed against the engine and the blunt end against your ear. You can stick an ear plug in your other ear to block out more of the background noise. You should be able to isolate the source of the noise quite easily. If it's the chains then the noise will be coming from the gearbox end of the engine (right hand side as viewed from the front of the car) and will be loudest with the screwdriver pressed against the chain cover. If the noise is from
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Help - VR6 - no power - eats fuel - in emergency mode?
ip replied to ramshackles's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
The lambda sensor is found on top of the cat (under the car). Top left (as viewed from the front) would possibly be the MAF but the car would barely tick over if that were bypassed. You really need to get it on VAG-COM. Anything else is just speculation. ip -
Interesting, the fact that VW don't endorse engine flush certainly tallies with what happened to my polo. I was just curious if it might improve the tapping a little until spring when I can get the lifters replaced (I don't have a garage and it's getting cold and dark out). ip
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About to give the car a basic service and was wondering if anyone has had any bad experiences with engine flush? I used flush on my old polo and found that it dried out the bearing which supported the cam as it passed through the end of the head to the dizzy. Resulted in a horrible screeching noise until I re-oiled the outer side of the bearing. Used flush twice and same thing happened both times. Strange but true. So, stopped using flush on the polo. However, I have heard that flush can help quieten down noisy tappets on the VR so might like to give it a shot (mine is getting a little tappy
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Hi John, yeah that's right, 40mm. I'm pretty sure that's right as the 30mm drop H&R spprings I was using were about about 10-15mmmm higher. Saying that though I think the FKs might have been set up to be 45mm at the front and 35mm at the back. That gives it mid point 40mm drop and has a sporty wedge look. The guy basically said he'd set it up so that there was still enough travel at the back for the car to take passengers without bottoming out too much. If you want to wind them down, make sure you give the the adjuster rings a good dousing in wd40 each day for a few days before trying to m
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So, in a previous thread I reported that some chav scumbag ripped the spoiler off the back of my car, smashing the rear window in the process. I had it repaired by autoglass but it doesn't look to me like they have done a great job. The adhesive around the window is uneven and has been squeezed out around the edges. I guess you can't expect it to look as good as good as factory fitted glass but does it have to look this shoddy? Has anyone else had rear glass replaced and is it possible for these guys to the job to factory standards (bearing in mind I took it to their depot so they got to do i
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Hi John, thanks for the advice. I do have nice blunt set of pliers.... Sadly, living in town you just have to accept that people will take pot shots at the car. Worst is when they key it cause that costs a fortune to put right (my old polo was mint until someone scored it down to the metal along four panels). At least this time it was only a bit of hassle and £60 excess. BTW, is your pic showing the car with the FKs on? Looks good. I do miss the cornering.
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Mike, you were right. Looks much better without the spoiler! Now I've just got to find a way to plug the three small holes (should have gone with the CL glass) and clean all the old adhesive off the door.
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I was thinking about that but I'm not sure it would look good with the black plastic wheel arch covers that y car has. I'd lose them too but they do such a good job of hiding the rusting arches. I've ordered the drilled glass but, until I get a spoiler at least, I'll just plug the holes with a couple of gromets and some mastic. If I decide to keepit without the spoiler I reckon this should look okay (the holes are only 5mm and sit in the blacked out are of the glass so should be easy to hide). Cheers for the advice. ip
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So I finally finished setting up the suspension on my car and spent Sunday giving a good clean so it looked as good as it drove. Winner. Then, last night, some b**tard rips the spoiler off the boot while it's parked outside my flat (obviously shattering the window with it). Gutted. Autoglass are doing the windw tomorrow but until I cna get a new spoiler, it'll have wee holes in it that I'll have to plug up somehow. Don't suppose anyone has a spare? ip
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Well, spent all yesterday hungover out in the wind playing with the suspension on my VR and have come up with a set up that I like. I'd previously tried FK coilovers and found them too sporty and (even when wound up) a little too low. They did handle great though. I sold the coilies and bought a set of new boge shocks and H&R springs. Tese seemed good at fiirst but after settling, they were much lower than the 30mm advertised drop and the ride (especially on the back axle) was bouncy as hell. So, this weekend I put the original springs back on the rear with the new boge shocks and then fab
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I've heard great things about the silverlines but the FK site reckons they produce a minimum drop of around 35mm. I'm lookig for about 20mm drop (just to lose the monster truck look) as I need to keep the car as practical as possible (load lugging and occasional farm track use). Thanks for the suggestion too, but I'm not sure the koni/eibach setup would be much better than what I have. The H&R springs are supposedly smoother riding than the eibachs (they certainly cost more) and the boge turbogas are a very decent shock to go with them. Don't get me wrong, this combo is awsome on twisty B
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I've heard that, but the springs for the later GTI 16 valves and VR6s actually share the same part number. Did they change the cruiser policy later in the model's life? What I'm getting at is that I recently put H&R 30mm springs on my car but find the ride too low and bouncy on long journeys and when negotiating unpaved surfaces. What I really wanted was the slightly lowered stiffer ride of the standard GTI. Anyone have any ideas how to do this? ip
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My mate has a standard 1997 GTI 8 valve. Though not as fast as the VR6, I have noticed that its handling seems better than the VR (on standard shocks) and that the stance of the car looks better too (slightly lower at the front). Is this purely because of the extra weight in the VR lump (makes car heavier up front and required taller front shocks)? I also read in the article below that the 1997 VR models received upgraded shocks and springs but maybe this was only in the American market? http://www.gti-vr6.net/library/specs/Edmunds_1997_VW_GTI_VR6_DE.htm#stdequip ip
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Drove from Edinburgh to Glasgow yesterday. Heavy traffic so 60mph all the way. MPG at the end of the motorway section of the trip MPG was 40.6!!! No question here, just wanted tosay these engines are amazing. ip
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Drove from Edinburgh to Glasgow yesterday. Heavy traffic so 60mph all the way. MPG at the end of the motorway section of the trip MPG was 40.6!!! No question here, just wanted tosay these engines are amazing. ip
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In this order: Spark Plugs HT Leads Coil Pack No real test except to replace items one by one and see if problem goes away I'm afraid. But the first two items aren't too pricey and both are available on ebay for not much cash. These HT leads are really good value. Cheapest I've found and seem to be very good quality. I've been using them on mine for 9 months now: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-MK3-VR6-CORRADO-VR6-PLUG-LEAD-SET-C247_W0QQitemZ200269469611QQihZ010QQcategoryZ9889QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247 ip
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Exactly. Sometimes problems show up so intermittently that resetting them once a year or so is fine (I have an intermittent camshaft sensor error that showed up once and never came back after resetting). Other times you can reset them and they'll be back right away. In that case, something will generally need to be fixed/replaced. The lambda sensor is found on top of the cat (you can get pretty decent generic ones now for as little as £15 on ebay but they are a git to install). The temp sensors (blue and yellow) are found on the ['stat housing front right hand side of engine block as viewed
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That makes a lot more sense. I guess you can try resetting those airbag codes but I'd not sit in either of the front seats while doing it! Yeah , reset the other codes and see if they come back. The reason I ask about the lambda and temp probe outputs is that these are often prone to failure and have a lot to do with controlling the fuel mixture. On my car for example, the dash temp gauge measured 90 degrees so all appeared fine but this is connected to the yellow temp probe in the stat housing. The ECU gets it's temp reading from a different (blue) temp sender. This was broken and reported a
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Thanks for the responses guys. As I say, this was not something I was planning to do (I've already lowered mine on H&Rs) but I was interested to see that the yanks consider this a normal mod. Makes sense with what yber says about old muscle cars though. I guess it's become normal to use this practice on other cars. Seems daft though with a prices they pay for proper after market parts. RCF is bang on too, all these parts do include a lot more engineering than we would probably guess at. I was told recently that Ford employ a full time team of 20 guys in England just to design drive shafts