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ip

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Everything posted by ip

  1. ip
    Wow sounds similar to my issue (VR6 Missfiring problem (stuttering)). http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?233995.last Perhaps a litle different as mine runs sweet at idle and above 2000rpm. However, thought I'd give a quick list of stuff I've dug up while trying to fix mine: 1. Alternator output voltage (unlikely but can be an issue). Battery be 12v when engine switch off and approx 13.5 when running. If regulator fails, the alternator can overvoltage the engine which ruins ignition timing etc... 2. ECU and Fuel Pump relays. ECU relay in particular has reputation for f
  2. ip
    Got some time to play tonight. Found the following: 1. Vagcom, all good, no fault codes 2. Throttle angle. Nice and smooth across whole range 3. Plugs, all clean. No sign of rich or lean running 4. HT leads all correctly fitted So, basically found nothing. All is well, so why's it missing/hesitatiing under load? Does anyone have typical adaptation values logged for their engine? I'd be interested to compare in case that throws something up. I had 1.178 for idle, 0.897 for partial thrttle and 0.9 for full throttle. All within spec according to vagcom. Anyone have any other thoughts? Cheers, ip
  3. ip
    Classic. Well, if it turns out that it IS my throttle body then I'll know who might have a spare for sale.
  4. ip
    I did put the leads on myself and would like to think I was smarter than that, but we all have off days. I'll pop all the leads off and on (with tool) and see if I messed it up the first time. Cheers.
  5. ip
    The last time this happened I ran vag-com and found no errors at all. In fairness though, I have not rescanned since the problem started again yesterday (got home late, too tired and pissed off to bother after a 6 hour drive). So you are quite right, the answer might be logged waiting for me in the ecu. It's the first thing I'll try when a get a free ten mins (hopefully tonight). I guess I am sceptical though since it didn't help last time this problem occured. Thanks for the comment.
  6. ip
    Yeah, it seems unlikey that the G40 sensor would only affect a specific rev range. Also, I wouldn't expect to see 35mpg if the timing was far out. Since it was HT leads last time it points to HT leads this time. I'll check I installed them right. I'll also see if I can borrow my mates spare set (his VR6 is more problematic than mine) and see what they do.
  7. ip
    I've also heard that cam sensor issue can cause these problems to occur. Anyone have any experience of this? How much will the G40 sensor set me back?
  8. ip
    Hi Matty, good tips. The air inlet system seems nice and airtight up stream of the MAF though so I think all is well there. I'll double check the MAF wiring but it was fine two months back when I swapped out the MAF (no sign of any wear and tear on wiring or connectors). Given the simplest explantation is usually best, I reckon you could be on to something with the HT lead connection theory. If they were not pushed on correctly, they would work fine initially until arcing caused a resistive connection to form. I gave them all a quick check last night (none appeared loose) but I'll give them a
  9. ip
    As mentioned in the original post, I fitted a new (alright, reconditioned) coil pack 2 months back. I did this before changing the HT leads and it made no difference. As I say, last time this happened, it was the leads that fixed it. The replacement coilpack is clean as a whistle with no cracks etc. However, it is probably worth putting the original pack back on and seeing what happens. I'll try to find time this week. My gut feeling is that I am not looking at a coil issue though since it was a dry day and only started to happen after 5 hours of driving (engine bay would be warm and dry as to
  10. ip
    Hi All, Real tale of woe here. Bought a VR6 back in Jan/Feb. Ran okay initially but, after first long drive in Feb, started to judder/missfire if pulling a heavy load at low revs (full car in second gear for example). Only happens from 900rpm up to 1500rpm, after that smooth as you like. Now, back in March I set about replacing the following: Plugs Coil (recon unit) MAF Temp sense/sender Thermostat All to no avail. Then, thanks to some great advice from a forum I tried replacing the HT leads and all was good. No judders, fuel economy improved, the works. So, imagine my despair this morning whe
  11. ip
    Good catch. I forgot that I had tried that out on my car. It is a common failure and I should have suggested it in the first place.
  12. ip
    As I say, mine only ever missfired (or partially fired really) at low revs. High revs were fine. It's all to do with 'easiest path to earth'. Normally, the easiest route to earth for the spark is over the spark plug tip (as you would hope). Under specific conditions, the mixture of fuel/air/compression within the cylinder means that the resistanc across the spark plug electrodes becomes greater than that of the path through the HT lead insulation and out onto the chasis/engine/whatever. Under these conditions, you'll get a partial missfire on the affected cyclinder. For my car, it was only eve
  13. ip
    I just spent a month working through this exact same behavior in my car (could have written your post myself). I figured fuel starvation myslef but it can't be that since it would manifest more often at high revs (where fuel flow is at a maximum) than low revs. I replaced the following before finding the actual cause: 1. Plugs 2. Coil Pack 3. MAF Turns out it was..... HT Leads! Really surpised me that it could be that simple but there you go. They looked fine and there was no sparking visible (even when sprayed with water) but replacing them solved the problem straight off. There is a guy sell
  14. ip
    Well, after all that new HT leads (borrowed from a mate) cleared problem right up! Only thing I hadn't changed. Runs sweet now and pulls smoothly from 680rpm all the way up. Thanks again for all the advice. I guess I've learned two things. 1, The simplest explanation is the one to start with. 2. VR6s are very fussy about HT leads. Meantime, I've spent a bit on plugs and a coil pack but they needed changing anyway so no harm done. Only annoyance is changing the MAF for no reason. Hopefuly I can shift the old one on ebay. Cheers, ip.
  15. ip
    I'd do postage at cost so probably only £3 or so... Send me a private message if you want to go ahead. As I said, the new one I put in made no difference at all to the car's running so I don't believe there is anything wrong with the old one. Cheers, ip
  16. ip
    I've got a MAF from a 1995 VR6 which I switched out mistakenly believing it to be broken. Turns out it works fine. Yours for £40 if you are interested.
  17. ip
    Two things to check: 1. Ignition switch can fail on these cars at exactly this sort of age. Will cause start-then-stall issues and sometimes intermittent cutting out. Really easy to test. Buy new switch (oem, dead cheap, UK was £7, does not include key barrel, is just the electrical switch behind), remove steering column plastics and then pull plug out of back of current ignition switch. Put plug into new ignition switch. Insert key into ignition and turn (to release steering lock and fool immob if you have one). Now, using screwdriver, turn barrel of new ignition switch and see what happens.
  18. ip
    ..... also, could be hole in brake servo diaghram itself. Good news is that none of these things are expensive to put right (especially compared to all that you've tried already). Hope it helps.
  19. ip
    Sharan, couple of things.... Mayonaise residue can be a product of blown head gasket but can also be seen when you are doing a lot of short journeys on cold mornings (product of condensation apparently). However, the most intersting point you raise is 'lack of brakes on first start up'. The power brake circuit runs off the vacuum created in the inlet manifold of the engine. If there is a leak in the inlet manifold or the pipe connecting it to the power brake servo (or any other pipe connected ot the inlet manifold) you would get two effects: 1. No brakes at start up. 2. Reduced performance (in
  20. ip
    Just to be sure, are we talking about the sensor below the oil cooler (referred to as the engine speed sensor (G28) in vag_com)?
  21. ip
    Wow, I haven't heard of that before. Is the crank sensor the G28 engine speed sensor found beneath the oil cooler? Also , how did you figure it out to even try that? Any other symtoms? Thanks.
  22. ip
    Fair comment. It is running a little rich so this could point to a lambda probe issue. Saying that, I took a log of the lambda output on a recent test drive and didn't notice anything to untoward. All values within the 0.9 to 1.1 range and no abrupt changes in mean value.
  23. ip
    scanned it several times over last two weeks (to see if any faults were appearing then self clearing). No reported issues from ECU at all.
  24. ip
    Sharan, did you ever get to the bottom of this. My Golf VR6 is doing exactly the same thing. Doing my head in! Cheers, ip
  25. ip
    Hi, thanks for all comments. Sorry for slow response. Been away from PC for a couple of days. Right, quick update. Idle when cold, not particularly bad only first 5 secs or so (soars highand then dies down). Might be normal, just seems higher than my last VW. Saying that, removed and cleaned ISV (bypass valve). No great change. Replaced MAF this week and made no difference. Gutted since it cost £188 from the dealer. On the upside though, I have a perfectly good VR6 MAF for sale if anyone needs one? I also checked the throttle pot today (fine) and fuel pressure (fine). Since I've already done
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