ip
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Everything posted by ip
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It's an easy job to flush the engine and refill with fresh coolant. Why not do that? At least you'll be sure.
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sorry, just finished reading the thread, you've already got the box off. In that case, check the chains for stretch. A good inidcator of wear is to try to bend the chain sideways. If there is play in that direction then thechain is worn (like how you test a bike chain). Can't give you any guide to how much play you might expect but if it is very slight then I reckon you can save yourself the cash. Meanwhile, still keen ot hear what people think of bodging the job by just changing top tensioner?
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If you're doing the job yourself then I guess it makes little differnce since the box has to come off to do the bottom tensioner anyway. If it's a garage job then might be a little more valid since they'll no doubt charge for added labour. Even then, Samson has a point, removing the box is the biggest part of the job. I guess the real question is whether you can get away with just doing the top tensioner. In that case you don't need to take the box off (as I understand it) and the whole job gets a lot quicker and cheaper. What are the thoughts on this, do the top and bottom tensioners wear equ
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The previous owner of my car felt he was a bit of a whiz with a can of halfords spray paint and, as a result, my drivers side rear door has a lovely matt finish and isn't really the same colour as the rst of the car. Looked into a respray and was told that £350 was the going rate (pearl paint meant they needed to spray three panels to get a match). So, I'm looking to get a replacement door from a car with the same colour code. I know it won't be a perfact match either but at least it won't have the matt finish of my current door. Anyone know of a pearl black 1995 5 door being scrapped (painr
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[poll] Have you had your Timing Chains/Tensioners changed?
ip replied to swarve's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
What qualifies as 'a later' vr6? Mine's a 95 which I suspect means it's an earlier one. Also, if only doing the top tensioner, does the gearbox still need to come off? Cheers, ip -
Fitted new parts last night. Shifter feels much better. Still a bit of slop but the vaguness has gone. For about £20 of parts I'd recommend giving this a shot. Only took 10 mins to fit. Saying that, I'm defo going to have a shot at some type of short shift arrangement. Lots of useful info here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2857147 After all, what's the point of all this power if it's a pain to unleash it..... Cheers, ip
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Thanks to all for the useful info (especially the detialed description from Phat VR6). Really good use of the forum. Cheers, ip
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Cool, so not as complex as I feared. I'm pretty experienced with motors just not done any work on suspension before. Thanks, ip
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Hi guys, not much response. If not a web guide then any tips from peeps who've lowered their own cars? I'm just hoping to avoid the obvious pitfalls before I immobiolise the car by stripping the old parts out. Cheers, ip
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I would still recomend changing the coil pack. My car was doing this (drove me mad) and I had replaced plugs and leads too. I had also removed the coil pack, checked for cracks, tested for correct impedances and sprayed water on the pack while the engine was running at night to check for sparks. All tests showed the coil pack was fine. The, tried a new coil pack in desperation and the car ran perfectly after that. The coilpack really is the weak spot of the VR6 give it a shot.
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Hi vr6newcomer. How old is your coil? From what I've heard they can fail any time after a couple of years even with original VW parts. Fairly poor perfomring part unfortunately. Let us know how you get on. cheers, ip
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Via the magic of vagcat.com I have worked out that the two worn peices in question are the relay lever (1H0711202A) and the driver (1J0711256). I have a spare driver already (initially thought I might knock up a side-to-side reduction mod a la http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5988) so just need to get the relay lever from the stealership. I'll see how it goes and with a bit of luck I might not feel I need to bother with the side-to-side mod. Saying that, I'll probably give it a shot anyway (cause I love to modify things and the shifter itself probably need as new bushings too)
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Oh, yeah. sorry about that. Clearly started this thread in the wrong place. My Mistake. Thanks for the link, I've looked into this already and the issue is definitely not one of cable shift alignment. It's bang on. The problem is simply the amount of play in the mechaism that converts the output of the side to side cable into the up/down movement required on the gearbox selctor rod itself (sticks out of top of gearbox). Ithere is about 1-2cm of free play in the mechanism before the selector rod actually moves. Since nobody else seems to have reported this, perhaps I've just got unlikely and th
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Yeah, I gather the mk4 shifter is a better unit. However, if it's cheap, I think I'll try getting the existing one working to spec for now. My mate has the 16v GTI which I believe has the same assembly and it works pretty well (much better than mine at least). I htink it is the top of the box selstor that has worn on mine. Probably a trip to the stealer is required but I was wondering if it is a common issue and if anyone new what part/s are affected.
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So, now I've finally (touch wood) got my VR6 running properly I thought Id turn my attention to the next bug bear: The gear change has always been sloppy. Front to back is okay (though a little longer than I'd like ) but side to side has always been really vague. It's not that it miss-shifts, you can find all the gears fine, but even when in a gear (say first) there is still well over 4 cm of slop either side. Just spoils the feel of shifting. I had a look at the linkage under the bonnet yesterday while my girlfriend (long suffering) sat in the car and move the shifter side to side while in 1s
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Okay, so that special day has arrived, I'm going to lower the VR6. So, I just bougth a set of slightly used FK Highsports (no leaks no corrosion) which I'm hoping to get fitted some point soon. How easy a job can I expect this to be? I've bought replacement bolts for the lower attachement points (front and rear) but am not sure what to do at the top mounts. Can anyone offer a guide or know of any web instructions for general coilover fitting? Also, what's the deal with insurance? Cheers, ip
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Hi Andre, no problem. In the end it turned out that it was just the ignition switch! Apparently they tend ot fail after about 10 years (very common). What was happenign was that the ignition contacts within the switch would 'drop out' between switch positions. So, when cranking, all was well and the engine would start, then as I released the switch and it returned to the nornal 'run' position, the ignition voltage would breifly drop out and the engine would stall. It was less of a problem when hot since the engine would continue spinning under its own momentum for longer and then recover when
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on the front of your thermostat housing there will be two or three sensors. Blue (G62 I think) which tells the ecu what temp the engine is at, a Yellow which tells the fans when to come on and feeds the temp gauge on the dash and possibly a third which is only present for cars with aircon (right most of sensors). On my car, the thermo housing was leaking when I got it, the thermo stat would also get stuck open once the engine was warm (causing underhaeting) but the yellow temp sensors had gone too. The result was that the temp gauge was random and the car ran really rich (since it was too cold
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What milage has it done? Not sure I would change head gasket and chains unless I was sure they were needed (expensive and some gagrages do a shoddy job). You'll know if you need new chains as the rattling sound should be very apparent. My own car had only been doing 2k miles per year for the period before I bought it and there was a little mayo under the oil filler cap due to condensation. All gone now. The rusty coloured water can be one of three things: 1. Mixed G61 and G62 coolant (not sure I have the coolant names correct but essentially blue and pink coolants). This can become corrosive a
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Well, full marks fo to slim5878 who correctly suggested the coil pack right back at the beginign of this thread. I'm pretty gutted that it was the coil since I replaced it (albeit with a used one) only 2 months back. The failed coil looked to be brand new and tested out with correct impedances etc. It also showed no issues when sprayed with water (that aold trick). This was why I couldn't believe it had failed. I guess we can learn two things here: 1. Don't rely on a used coil pack (no matter how clean) on being a working coil pack. 2. If youre VR6 ain't running right, try the HT leads andf co
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Okay, defo not the HT leads. Swapped them over with my mate's working set. No change. Didn't get time to disconnect battery (forgot 8mm spanner) but will give it a shot tomorrow. Also, happens when cold too. I just hadn't properly checked before. Beyond that, I payed a bit more attention to the rev counter and noticed that it only really happens from 690rpm (idle) up to 1000 rpm. Does anyone know if it's harder for the mixture to ignite at lower rpms? If that were the case then it would definitely point to weak spark and thus, back to the coilpack. Cheers, ip
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Hi vr6newcomer. I'm prepared to bet that you'll just need new plugs and leads. From what I can see on most forums, this clears up 90% of misfire issues. Please do let me know what you find though. Cheers, ip
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Hi Homer, it might sound daft but you are dead right. An ECU reset might be all it needs. If the adaptation values drift for some reason then it might cause something like this to occur. I'll give it a shot when I get a chance to play. Thanks for the tip. ip
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Thanks for the tips but the plugs are the recommended NKG platinum ones and the vacuum hose you mention is tidy. Are there any other hoses I should be having a look at?
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Has anyone ever tried testing coils as per the instructions from the Bentley manual? http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=793322 Obviously most of the instructions relate to testing the signal from the ECU but the last two indicate expected impedances from the coil pack. If anyone has a known duff coil it might be interesting to measure as described and post the results. Cheers, ip