ip
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Everything posted by ip
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Simplest explanation so often the best. ip
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Really what happened to the handling? Too soft/too harsh?
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Okay, before I start. I know this is controversial and I'm not really considering it. But, I am curious if anyone else has tried it. A couple of U.S. vw sites have posts by guys who've tried cutting down the original VW springs (one complete loop of each coil) and reckon this provides a nice stance with a smooth ride. Opinion is divided among the respondants. Many claim this is a terrible and hugely unsafe plan. Others reckon it works fine. The thing is, looking at the mechanics of it, I don't see a real problem. Yes, the car will be lowered but not by much. Plus, the effect of distributing th
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Wow, if mine is meant to have it then it really is crap. Driven properly the car doesn't spin, the power comes in smoothly enough to prevent that. Boot it and drop the clutch in first though and mine spins everywhere. I do get a juddering but I thought that was axle tramp. Maybe that is the traction control after all? ip
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If the wishbone bushes are starting to tear then that is almost definitely the issue. BTW, you don't need to remove the sump. Get the car on axle stands (as you should do when replacing wishbones anyway). Remove the two 13mm bolts from the rear engine mount (trick to get to but doable) and then jack the engine up until you have clearance (being careful not to crush the lambda probe). Takes 10 mins and means not having to replace the sump gasket. Did it myself. Now, make double sure that front bolt is good and tight when you put it back in (you'll need new ones all round). ip
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Sorry dude, didn't mean to scare you. I just know that my software states very clearly that resetting airbag codes is risky. Other people here might be able to reassure you that this is not the case. If the airbag light is on though then there is every chance this is because something is actually broken. Clearing the codes might well only work until you next start the car (if they don't set off the airbag itself). Better to work out why it is upset first: 00668 - low voltage-intermittant fault on controller 3 (ABS) 00588 - Air-bag Ignition Circuit - Driver Side -N95 00532 - Transmission Contro
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http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/vw/vw.dtc.table.htm is a good place to start. I've never found a resource that gives more than a one line explanation for each code though. Saying that, normally, one line is enough. What are the fault codes that you are getting? Can't really advise on how to fix them if we don't know what they are! More importantly thouigh, is the srs section the airbag section? I've heard it said that there is real danger in messing with the airbag codes as erasing codes can cause the airbags to go off. The vag-com software that I got with my reader actually specifically
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I do get a banging when I wheel spin hard but I thought this was just good old fashioned axle tramp. I guess I need a nice icy day to test it properly. Shouldn't be long now. ip
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Assuming that you don't simply need a wheel alignment to be carried out (fixes most steering problems) it could be the front wishbone bush. If this bush is worn, the wishbone will pivot forward slightly (using rear bush as an axle) under acceleration. This effectively allows the front wheel to move forward and inward relative to the chassis and basically increases toe in. Now, toe in is actually used by manufacturers (often about 1 degree) to increase straight line stability so this toe in won't cause the car to pull left or right. Instead it will cause the steering wheel to re-centre to compe
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Ahhh, so highlines and Corrados might have it. Mine's a basic VR6 from 1995 so I'm guessing it may not. I don't really miss it. The power comes in so smoothly that I don't think it is required. Just curious if it was meant to be there but had died somewhere along the line. ip
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Has anyone used lowering spring tops on their front struts? I think they are made by JOM engineering in Germany. Any good? ip
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Do the Golf Mk3 VR6s have traction control? My mate reckons his 'rado VR6 does have a very basic ABS based system that works up to 30mph (ABS feathers the brakes when system detects wheel spin). However, I'm pretty sure my golf does not. Certainly, it's happy to spin its wheels at any speed on wet roads. Vag-Com tells me all is well so I'm guessing the Golfs never had traction control? ip
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My mate blew the fuse on his wipers on his mk3 gti by tryig to use them when they were frozen to the windscreen. Worth a look. ip
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Just checked their site and, at £12.99 for separate cleaner and oil that is probably a fair price. Saying that, if I'm paying £20 a used filter plus £13 for a cleaning kit, the new ones at £40 don't seem such a bad idea. ip
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I'm looking out for a used one (they are meant to last 1 million miles after all). What type of oils are used for these. I'm not keen to give halfrauds £15 for what might just be a can of wd40. ip
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Thinking of getting a K&N panel filter or the like. How do you clean/oil these (what oil do you use)? And, where do you drill the 'speed holes' (as homer simpson would call them) in the air box to get a little induction roar? ip
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Groaning noise when pulling away
ip replied to ip's topic in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering
Ain't it always the way? Simplest explanantion is the best. I decided to retrace my steps and retighten every bolt.The front bolt on the driver's side wishbone wasn''t exactly loose but it wasn't hugley tight either. One extra 1/4 turn sovled the isseu. Amazing how much noise it was making for one very slightly loose bolt. Odd because I'd tightened and checked it for the correct torque on installation (with a dcent teng wrench). I guess maybe it wasn't sitting 100% right at the time and shifted with driving. Either way, am so much happier with it now. Brakes, steering and acceleraion all feel -
Just to clarify, a cat back exhaust is a normal exahaust and connects after the cat (thus not including a new cat). This is why I don't think it will help with your issue. Xyber is right though. Could be overfueling. When my temp sender broke it kept under reading and told the engine that it was stuck at 40 degrees. The result was constant overfueling and a nasty smell.
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That is going to be an awesome shift mechanism. Best of luck with it. ip
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A cat-back system won't help as this doesn't replace the cat. You may need to replace the cat itself. It might be getting worse right now because the weather is cold (means the cat doesn't start to work so quickly). Or, if you know a sympathetic MOT station, decat the exhaust and enjoy the improved throttle response! ip
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Stupid question but, have you changed your pollen filter. I thought my old polo's hot air blower had conked out it got so bad (couldn't even de-mist with one person inside). Replaced the filter and never misted up again!. ip
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B&M is nice but if you decide to go with it, be sure to also renew the driver and relay parts at the gearbox end or you'll still have sloppy side to side shifting. Also, does the B&M reduce side to side travel or only front to back? Cheers, ip
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Have you tried replacing the existing relay driver and driver components as we discussed on the other post? I found it sharpened mine up brilliantly. BTW, even if you buy the gruven part, you'll still need to buy the other part of the assembly from VW (1H0711202A), as this is where most of the slop actually comes from. Additionally, I bought a new, non threaded, gear knob and gaiter from ebay. Since this attaches with three grub screws it does not need the threaded portion of the metal gear shift rod. This allowed me to saw 1" off the end of the rod. Now, I know this is not a real short shifte
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I reckon you want to measure the fuel pressure. It certainly sounds like fuel starvation. If you weren't so far away, I'd offer to do it for you. When you changed the fuel pump did you notice and crap floating in the tank? Is it possible the pump is being blocked? Have you checked the fuel filter itself? ip
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How did you solve your fueling problem. Is this potentially another symptom of the same issue? ip