daleyboyVR6
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Everything posted by daleyboyVR6
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When my coilpack went i ,like you, i thought something was badly wrong with the engine...........if you havent or dont know when the coilpack was last changed then its almost a certainty they are quite often the weak link with these cars...................... ^o)
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Try the track at Rye House (Hoddesdon), i used to work there when it was called Deavinsons Leisure. Dont know what its called now.........as with anything it is quite expensive but the more people you can get to go the cheaper it'll be.......i also knew the manager at the milton keynes one dont know if he still works there he's name is dave saville......... :-# -
Do you wear real animal fur? DO NOT OPEN LINK IF EASILY OFFENDED!!!!!
daleyboyVR6 replied to H13VYY's topic in General Chat
Ive seen most things on the internet but i couldnt watch more than 20 seconds. Watching that animals eyes with the blood on its face was just awful, terrible thing to do. I gave my cat an extra nice stroke.............. ;( -
so must have been an intermitent fault with that sensor then cos if it failed it wouldnt of started, well done that man, wouldnt have hurt to change the lambda as these get progressively worse over time, and are, as far as im aware a service item. Good feeling when you get to the bottom of a problem though............ 8-|
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The "norm" is DOT 4 however the DOT 5.1 is very similar but has a higher boiling point. I think the difference you were referring to was the difference between (DOT 3,4,5.1) which is glycol based and the DOT 5 which is silicone based these shouldnt be mixed as the seals (in the master cylinder etc) are designed for one or the other......lets be very clear here DOT 5.1 is glycol based (designed for YOUR car) and DOT 5 which is silicone based (NOT for your car) the difference in name is small but is two different substances The clutch bleeding from what i can remember, look at the top of the ge
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"V - Reihenmotor" in german, or "inline - v" is the closest english translation
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Yea the breathers are supposed to get a bit oily, if you have too much crankcase pressure then this can make it worse, the dreaded yellow gunge is the stuff to look out for and this will block the pipe.
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You said you took ALL calipers off did you clamp the pipes then? If you want to be a perfectionist then i suppose your correct but then unless you change all the pipes and everything then your going to be stuck with whatever the manufacturer put in it initially as i dont think there is any way of "cleaning" out all the old brake fluid. Apart from pouring a litre of DOT 5.1 down first which set me back £11.50 a litre. Just remember to bleed the clutch as well to get all the old fluid out of the pipes and you should be fine.......... 8-)
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I used two litres of DOT 5.1 that included the bleeding, i used one of those pressure bleeders which use the spare tyre for the pressure.
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I think that would have hit the papers an expense claim for a paint job like that. Nearly as ridiculous as the floating duck house................... ^o)
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I would have a go at changing the Lambda, that would give you dodgy mixture. Vehicle speed sensor and engine speed sensor could be down to the car not moving/started. The throttle position sensor is on the throttle body so could be changed with someone elses to see if it cures it.
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Hope thats not G for Gary Glitter.....................isnt it a Mclaren Mercedes SLR ?.............. :-p
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The only differential lock i know about is the one thats to do with the traction control which locks the diff if it senses one wheel spinning..........the diff would be at the heart of the gearbox.........or inbetween the driveshafts..........
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Yea it started off like whats he going to do then i was just engrossed in it, was my sort of thing as well............ :-p
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So i take it that ; A) You have a gasket in place and its ok You cleared the codes then rechecked C) You have checked for cracks/holes in the inlet pipe and all the jubilee clips are tight
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Have a look under the gearstick surround, it just pops off................. :-p
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http://mrfeature.com/media.php?name=3890-freaking-awesome-beat-box-artist
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Definitely would be with a new pipe and sensor then just a case of connecting up and bobs ya uncle........... :-p
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Clutch fork was what i meant by "release arm" or whatever its called, yea the thing that works the dubrey.............
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The lambda on my car is at the top of the pipe just after the bend (on the horizontal bit), about 6" behind the downpipe/cat joint. From what ive heard on the corrado forum the best thing to do is to go to Bosch direct. I know the part no for OBD 1 but thats it.........would have thought that the golf wouldnt be that different........its an underneath job so a front end lift would be the order of the day, i would say lift the side and go under but they can be a bit difficult to get off without decent access.........hope this helps..............with your new decat then obviously put the new sen
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If the gasket is in perfect condition i cant see why you couldnt re-use it however if it doesnt look perfect then renew it. If you havent got a gasket then get one !!! You shouldnt use carb cleaner to clean the MAF but the throttle body should be ok with it just make sure its all dry once clean. Dont use any silicon or anything keep the seal dry cos you dont want little bits of whatever getting into the inlet. Just torque up the bolts to what they should be (with the gasket in place)........and job done.......... :-p
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Any joy yet Nige or are you still doing mock indicating?................... :-p
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An air leak in the inlet i would have thought would play havoc with your emissions especially if it is past the MAF.............as the engine wouldnt know the amount of air going in which would in turn ruin your mixture, which may show up as a lambda fault because the mixture would be out.........make any sense?...................... :-p
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Was the release arm of the clutch replaced? What sort of judder is it, is it on take off (when the clutch is released)?.....judder on take of is either clutch or engine/gearbox mount related, i would look at these first, if a bearing was going/gone then you would either have a noise or movement to indicate wear/damage. I would suspect however that the driveshafts would be more susceptible to damage than the diff bearings, do you have a rattling sound at low speed at nearly full lock?.......A bit more info required on symptoms and what you've replaced or ruled out.........
