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adam_christie

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Everything posted by adam_christie

  1. I'd be interested to find out if there really is a headlight on buzzer and how to fix it if it doesn't work.........
  2. Howdy all; Just wondering, has anyone swapped the clocks in thier dash and managed to change the milage on the new clocks to the match the mileage in the old clocks? Mine are knackered cos the spoon that owned the car before me tried to change the colours of the LED's and did a shocking job..... Thanks!! Ad
  3. What about head gaskets? Don't SC'd VR's need metal ones? Or is that only for serious boost?
  4. Vince from Stealth recently quoted me £750+VAT for a chain/guide/clutch swap. Not cheap!
  5. What do you mean when you say the back end has stepped out on you? Oversteer would cause this to happen surely?
  6. Had exactly the same problem with mine. Turned out to be a knackered fuel pump. Replaced it, now it's running fine again all the way up to redline........
  7. I'm assuming it's the fuel pump that you replaced? If it is, then yeah, the regulator needs to be replaced as the new pump will be forcing even more fuel through the fuct reg which, I assume, was flooding your engine making it stall in the 1st place?
  8. OMG?! I've just run my VR down south to my parents house and back (340 miles round trip) and didn't have to fill up on the way home! I was pretty shocked when I was on the M25 and MFA 1 was telling me my VR was doing 39.5mpg!!!! I was averaging 95 mph on the M40 and 65 on the M25 too!
  9. Any news at all? I've got my x-mas money sitting here waiting!
  10. Right, it's a safety bush at the bottom of the steering column which dislocates when your face/chest smashes into the steering wheel in a head on collision. At least it is on a MK2. Only problem is that the bolt that holds it in place is made from crap stretchy material and will either snap on impact or when you loosen it then tighten it again to relocate the bush. I take it there's quite a lot of movement? I recommend taking it to VW or someone reputable to get a replacement bolt as it's a safety feature and could have consequences if you have an accident.......... Don't mean to scare you but
  11. The 22mm master cylinder should be ok for even 8-pot brakes. Don't know why VW made them to be honest, makes braking feel spongy as hell!! Have you looked into getting an old porsche brake setup?
  12. For the Bling factor I'd definitely go with the two piece WP Pro Kit (if you can afford it go for the Brembo kit, the 330mm kit costs about £1500 though.........!) However for simplicity and low cost go for the Audi TT setup. The parts will be cheaper, and installation should be miles easier.
  13. Hmm, crazy one that. I know on the old MK2 K-Jets you could disconnect a cable that made your fan come on. Can't remember which one though. Maybe a relay's out somewhere.........What you're describing suggests that a relay that holds an electrical circuit open turns off and lets the circuit close when you take you key out of the ignition. You checked the temp sensor on the rad yet? That may be fugged and not shutting off. Does the fan run when the car's on?
  14. This is a blinkin good idea! Put me down for one!
  15. How much did it cost you to get your chains sorted matth76? Need to get mine sorted, plus my clutch which is juddering.....
  16. Are all fuel pumps the same on all MK3 Golfs? I've found one on the "bay" for not much. Also checked Euro Car Parts and the part numbers are the same, just wondering if there's something I don't know........ Ta! Adam
  17. Fair comment.......) Whats the average cost to have them done? Assuming it's a job left to professionals! I don't think I have noisy chains, but my car's done 104K so she's about due!
  18. When you say "they need doing" I'm assuming you mean that the guides need replacing and not the chains? I thought the chains were pretty indestructable?
  19. Holy cr@p! Lucky you didn't burst into flames there mate! Strictly speaking the fuel wouldn't have ignited anyway but if there had been any arcing going on from your HT leads you would've been a gonner........!
  20. To bleed? As in get the airlocks out? Can be. To avoid any air locks, drain the system first, then flush it with cold water. Then set your heater to "full-heat" and fill with coolant. Should prevent any airlocks.......... A
  21. Sounds like you've got a lovely project planned mate! Just take it easy on the VR for now. Get the mechanics sorted before you do anything else. Thats what I'm doing with mine before I spend any money buying wheels/chargers/exhausts/induction kits etc. You can find out if the rings have gone by getting the cylinders tested for compression, and if they're fine you're onto a winner cos all you'll need to sort will be the valve stem seals etc. If you're planning a charger then you may aswell get the head off and plonk in a metal head gasket. This will take your compression ratio down to 1:9, and
  22. Well I tried closing all the windows from the PASSENGER side and they all did! I think I know the problem now, there's more than likely a switch in the drivers door that's fecked I think, plus the lock on the drivers side is fairly stiff, so I'm thinking I'll need to whip the door card off and have a butchers.....
  23. Yeah I'll second the bottom rad hose option. Much easier.
  24. Sounds like valve stem seals mate. How many miles has your car done? May as well swap your tappets and valve guides while you're there, and if you're not going to use a compressor to hold your valves up (i.e. taking the head off) you may as well change your head gasket.........you don't have to change all that mind, but if you don't get your guides done your new seals will only last another 25K miles at best. New tappets are always a good thing, but you can clean them too with a little patience.
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