rosserooni

You have a PM fella

Standard VR6 wll start about 1340kg, I got mine down 985kg, with two front seats and a full 10 point roll cage put in it. There is plenty you can strip out. Interior: remove every piece of plastic you can see. Electric window mechs change for manuals, have a set for sale as it happens. Change windows for polycarb ones, have a set a for sale as it happens. Seats and rails are really heavy, lose those, replace with alloy mounts and lightweight seats. Remove sunroof and mechanism, replace with polycarb panel, have one for sale as it happens. Remove all carpet and spare wheel as already mentioned

If the plug gap doesnt cure it try changing the coilpack for a known working one. My misfiring problems were down to the leads or the coilpack everytime.

Have you put it on a diagnostics machine it should tell you exactly whats wrong.

Its a long shot but is anyone travelling up from south to near you today or tomorrow that could take this one up to you?

I can post it to you today?? Or your welcome to come pick it up?

I have a vibratronics rear engine mount and a vibratronics gearbox mount, PM me if your interested

I have an VR6 OBD2 engine in my garage looking for a new home.... Its got a reconditioned Stealth head on it too, only been on it for about 6k miles.

Owned my VR6 for 10 years, RIP, in that time turned it into a track toy and was still my daily driver. The 3 best mods I made were the VF engineering supercharger, coilovers and anti-roll bars. I had the stage 1 type supercharger kit with an additional intercooler all of which I fitted myself, took about 12 hours over a weekend was pretty straight forward. It made about 265bhp after the rolling road map and the car weighed 950kg so was quite quick. I would recommend a stage 2 if you go the supercharger route to get you over your 300bhp mark. Coilovers I used were KW variant 2's which were sim

You have a PM!

Yes they are for a coilpack VR6. You have a PM!

If your seeing just over 12V across the battery terminals it sounds low. Healthy fully charged battery can sit between 13 and 14V. Best way to check a battery if all you have is a multimeter is get someone to turn the ignition while your taking the voltage measurement and check it doesn't dip too low, voltage should stay around 12V. If your looking for a cheap set of leads, I have a complete set I can sell you, always useful for spares. I just stripped them off my car which I scrapped. About 18 months old work perfectly, £20 delivered to you?

Only use hubcentric spacers! They are totally safe unlike the universal type sold on eBay. Universal spacers are just a flat plate, you'll get wheel wobble as your wheel is not located centrally on the hub. Hubcentric spacers are the correct way to do it, the wheels will be located correctly and your hub takes the load.

Looking good fella, reminds me of my VR6 track toy in its glory days....had it scrapped yesterday, RIP. If you want any parts for track I have loads for sale, polycarbonate windows (very lightweight)? fixed polycarbonate sunroof? H&R antiroll bars (the 2nd best handling mod I made next to coilovers)? carbon bonnet? Also have a bespoke heater blower which is really tiny and lightweight, you can remove your entire blower/aircon system saves loads of weight. In total I removed over 400kg with all the changes and mods I did.