rodney
-
Content Count
2,747 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
VR6OC News
Website Content
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Gallery
Store
Collections
Community Map
Everything posted by rodney
-
Folks, Getting to that time of year and I need to stock up on all sorts of cleaning goodies. Where is Best to get them? Do we get discounts??? I suppose any General comments really folks...??? Cheers R
-
.
-
[poll] Shocks and springs or coilies
rodney replied to supadupagt4's topic in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering
cost cost cost. we all know the car has to be lowered.... if you go for the spring shock set up as above then you can immediately lower it either 20-25mm or 30-40mm. Dependent on what kit you buy. The shocks are adjustable so you can make the ride full on solid or less harsh. What do you want to do? Once you are lower than 30mm speedhumps etc become a concern. So if you just want to drop it and be done then combo is the way forwards and decide how low you want to go. If you want the option to scrape on the ground for shows then coilovers are the way forwards. However as the chaps say... -
Dont get me started!!!!! Have you got a pair of overalls that you wear more than anything else. Also a cap of some form both with oil on it that cannot come off. Does the missus put newspaper down as you walk in the house??? Yup your a car geek..... it comes to us all... LOL
-
just rub its tummy they gurggle when they're happy...
-
I seem to remember the problem was somethig to do with the cam overlap, dont know what it means but took their advise as they know alot more than me about that sort of thing, I think its basically a leak in the boost pressure as both the inlet and exhaust cams are open slightly at the same time?? If anyone know for definate what it is post up as in quite interested This i do know about - In a few words rather than a book full of words.... you're not far off the mark at all! As you can appreciate the extra heat in the chamber from the charger means the chamber stays hotter for longer. The
-
well 248s are known as the charged cam.. I dont know why. I just remember that they are what people tend to use. I think it had something to do with the ignition ppoint and retard levels giving torque... Read in to that what you will. It was a long time ago.....
-
Altera (cant remember the rest of his avater) did his so worth a read if you can find the link. He even tells you where to get the 4cyl to 6 cyl convertor for the rev counter etc...
-
high milers, avoid like the plague or all good?
rodney replied to longeatonlad's topic in General Chat
I am sure all will agree what has been said. They are only just warming up at 150k Same as with all higher milage cars, service service service! Usual things to check on any high miler are the bits more challenging to get to. I would suggest chains are a must as you dont want a £700 bill for that and the clutch. Otherwise brake pipes, all rubbers underneath and in the engine. Do all electrics work. Has it been spanked. Otherwise they are pretty solid all in, they were built with the distance Euro/autobhan and american markets in mind i suppose Spend your time and you could get a belt -
fit a turbo?????
-
yup feelin you there. I been saving for almost 2 years for paint now... every time i go out i see the damage... I dont like to wish bad things on people as I figure it'll come back on me some how. BUT........
-
pete was looking for one if my memory is working...
-
you signed up for the group buy???
-
not had to do a back one ever so someone else will need to help you. however the principle should be the same as the front. Remove the grill. Need a slim screwdriver for those clips. 3 on top 4 on bottom i think. I take all the lights off as it makes my life easy and it only takes a second or two... then you have a selection of bolts on top of the bumper 4 i think... Now for the fun bit. In the arches facing the front as you would expect if holding the bumper on. There is a little black plug connector thingy. It looks linda like a black rivet with a centre in it. You need to push t
-
click on the blue in previous message and it will appear as if by magic. Once registered all the additiona bits and discounts are available...
-
you can do it on the drive with an axle stand... and If you are not running lower this is the perfect excuse..... There is a guide to replacing in the premium members section....
-
Oh is everything tight as it should be???
-
once you start getting a clunk or a clonk it usually refers to bushes. so that you have had them done is unusual. Bounce on the corner does it move? Does it move and rebound? does it rebound for ever? Can you hear the sound and when? Remember you have bearings and rubbers/stops etc in the struts on each corner as required. Best thing I can suggest really is get it on a ramp and get the old persuasion tool in there and look at the movement in all directions you have and i suppose even if you can hear it. And don't forget the actual wheel bearings as well. let us know what you find...
-
exhausts play their part in all this as well, if you put a big open pipe you loose low end grunt this is a mystic art though ..... and as for picking up a Schrick manni,. Start praying... All those who don't have one are... and not just for the lottery to fund one ...
-
oh and a final thing. if you do run the car don't run for too long as you can appreciate. Plan for worst hope for best..
-
ok so here is a list to look at..... lets start with basics and assume the sensor is working and accurate Due to the heat etc all plugs need re gapping as a minimum as the heat kill this and plugs. whilst the plugs are out. they should be that nice colour. Please confirm if they are brown or exceptionally white. As it has been running like a bag of spanners there should be a carbon build up but wipe that off and look below this. (take your time here) check the Dizzy/coilpack is not showing anything obvious ion the way of heat dammage. Plugs and leads do not like this level of heat in s
-
I started it before you posted but got interrupted. Glad you solved it ....
-
Assuming the immobilizer isn't working then there are only a couple of reasons for the stop. You are only running of an intermittent spark or fuel feed. Have you fitted headlights yet??? If you have turn them on and watch what happens. You are looking for them to stay on and strong. If not or they dim then you need to look at the power supply to all things. Alternator/battery/pump etc etc. earth faults all that good stuff Pop a plug out and hold against the block. Does the spark stay strong or stop???? Are you sure that immobilizer is removed if the spark goes??? If not then fuel and air
-
if your premium member you get discounts....
-
join up anyway...
