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Devildub_06

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Everything posted by Devildub_06

  1. Devildub_06
    Providing you're on flat ground and jack the car up evenly, you can set it up with a spirit level just to get you to a garage who can use alignment gauges.
  2. Devildub_06
    There should be 3 bolts in a triangular formation that hold the balljoint to the wishbone. Using a scriber, or something similarly sharp, scribe a line on the balljoint where it protrudes from the wishbone, this will ensure that it's the correct distance in when refitting. Good luck.
  3. Devildub_06
    Well you could unbolt the balljoint from the wishbone at the bottom (If it's that type), but if you do it like that, mark it up very throughly as these have a bit of adjustment, and you could knock your camber out if you reassemble wrong.
  4. Devildub_06
    Undo the bottom balljoint on the wishbone and split with a splitter. This will allow the hub assembly to move away from the driveshaft (After pushing it through), you should have enough space to remove the CV joint from here on in.
  5. Devildub_06
    Corr that's a nice little Pandora's box you've opened lmao!! I would say turbo (Right up until you smash the gearbox). Logic would suggest to me that it would feel slower in a supercharged car until it comes on song owing to the parasitic load the charger exerts on the engine all the way through the rev range. It would effectively have to "work" harder to produce the 400BHP over the turbocharged equivalent. But then coming to the Turbo car it's not necessarily true that it would leave an s/c standing. A dustbin sized turbo would easily produce the whoomph but lag so much, whereas a nice and
  6. Devildub_06
    Is that the special lightweight edition as per the avatar? :$
  7. Devildub_06
    Disregard the dash and do some math. Work out actually how much you are using from what you put in. This will tell you if you are getting any bogus info. Also, with your decat pipe in place, whip it down to the garage and see if it's running lambda 1 at idle, this would tend to suggest the sensor is still in the loop and doing it's job.
  8. Devildub_06
    And then like a dipstick reads that he wants an SMIC doh!! But hope it helped somewhat!
  9. Devildub_06
    Nice logical question that, try this cap on for size. Just for the example of 2 cars sitting on the M25 for a long period, not moving, and getting nice and toasty say for example and hour, 25°C heat, and loads of people getting narked etc. You're not going to be creating hardly any boost so heat soaked into the metalwork of both will be mostly a result of radiated heat from the engine (A supercharger turning at idle won't create a temperature massively above this). By and large most people fit FMIC's so the heat radiated into this will be a lot less as it's further away from the engine, char
  10. Devildub_06
    Obviously drain your coolant sufficiently ahead of fitting your new unit. You don't have to remove your dash, it should just be a case of centre console and some of the controls (you should be able to make sense of it all with the centre console removed). You don't need to drop the whole dash, though it is a bit tight if memory serves, and don't forgot to refill and bleed up properly when done. Good luck!
  11. Devildub_06
    Yep, though it may only affect part of the winding, you can check the alternator by whipping the belt off (with your multimeter across the battery terminals), and rotating slowly by hand noting any variations in voltage. This should be minimal, although there will always be an internal resistance. You can then disconnect this out of the circuit altogether and again check for the raise in voltage, again should be minimal. With the starter motor, there is no physical connection to the battery circuit until you energise the solenoid, so if you do get a voltage drop from the starter motor, it wi
  12. Devildub_06
    I have just been reading this thread with some interest and have followed the work done. It is a very good theory that overly thick oil could potentially overprime the lifters, what I would be tempted to do if you have garage access would be to let the car cool right down, re-inact this problem and drag it back in immediately for a compression check. If the thought is thick oil in the lifters, you won't even make a kittens breath of compression. With the Sharan you borrowed, the MAF error could be a result of the same problem, if the engine is partially holding valves open, then the lambda
  13. Devildub_06
    Well knowing there's a couple of avid american supporters on here I wouldn't wish to offend but, with these exact products then ashtray and motorbike spring to mind. Something that will last is worth paying money for, and having had a quick look at some of the gorgeous welding on some of these, i'd give them 10 miles, maybe 15...
  14. Devildub_06
    Couple other things you can check for. After said thrashing check to see how hot the radiator is if at all, and also check to see if any of the cooling pipes are rock hard. This would tend to suggest a break in the head gasket between the cylinders and cooling system. Leakdown will easily trace this.
  15. Devildub_06
    Are you taking the MPG off the dash readout?? Do you have any driveability issues? Hesitation, stalling etc?
  16. Devildub_06
    Best way to start checking is fully charge your battery, connect it back up to the car, then with a multimeter across the positive and negative, remove your fuses 1 by 1 until you notice a slight rise in voltage, by doing this you will isolate a circuit that is grounding out (when you've pulled the fuse that makes the voltage raise). *note by doing this you may need to dial in your radio code again if you have one and/or reset your alarm. If it hasn't worked for the fuses, do the same with the relays. and if that yields no results you will find it is an internal short of your alternator or
  17. Devildub_06
    And that means you lose your ignition efficiency to the spark plugs as the energy is being wasted on the engine or any other "easier" earths it comes into contact with causing loss of power, hesitation etc
  18. Devildub_06
    By the way, have you fitted your new leads as yet, arcing is a bit of a no no!!
  19. Devildub_06
    That's rather high, my old highline started on an icy cold morning would only hit 1,200 rpm then settle to about 700 rpm. I would be sorely tempted to have a further prod at that bypass, whip it off yourself and run some carb cleaner through it (not saying that the garage didn't do a good job, but if it was done in a hurry, may not have been done well enough). Then as per The Goth's instructions, reset it all over again and have a crack at it. Do you get any other driveabilty issues like hesitation or such like?
  20. Devildub_06
    Not really huge mileage I see, but i'd be tempted to have a compression check done. If it only happens from stone cold it may be a compression issue.
  21. Devildub_06
    It's not only head gaskets that can cause uneven compression. Worn cylinder bores, piston rings and poorly seating valves can also give you differing results. I'd be tempted to have a cylinder leakage test performed to see where your compression is escaping to.
  22. Devildub_06
    There may well will be a problem with the non return valve (not sure where they are), but should not be a major problem in any case as when you turn the ignition key to the ign position, the fuel pump "primes" the fuel system for 3-4 seconds, and should show on your fuel gauge a decent fuel pressure immediately before the engine's cranked. How many miles has your VR done? And does this occur when the engine is warm? After short runs/long runs etc?
  23. Devildub_06
    Ahh, I see Kev, having re-read it now I can see where Ciaran was coming from lol, it was loosely a question about a shopping list and I am the idiot!! As for fussyness, I would say perfectionist bordering on OCD, it aint coming out of the garage until i'm happy with it! C2 Motorsports, i'm aiming initially for 350 flywheel horsepower, but will not exceed 350 wheel horsepower. It's a great help to know I can do this OBD1, saves ripping looms out. I shall tap you up nearer the time as it sounds like you have the right answers to my question lol! Many thanks for your answers and pointers, all
  24. Devildub_06
    Well what can I say, some things I know, and some things I don't! I was hoping that somebody could point me in the general area of a shopping list for OBD 2 conversion? I'm aware of some differences namely ECU, loom, throttle body, immobiliser with transponder box. but from there on in I get stuck. Would anybody be able to point me in the direction of a thread where I could gather the rest of the missing pieces? So I do apologise Ciaran, wasn't trying to put a bee in anyone's bonnet!
  25. Devildub_06
    If I wanted an idiot's guide to OBD2 conversion?
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