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Devildub_06

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Everything posted by Devildub_06

  1. Devildub_06
    Don't suppose you have a pic? If you're pretty sure it's a vacuum line going into this "block" crimp the pipe so that engine vacuum doesn't act upon it, rev the engine and see if it still makes the noise.
  2. Devildub_06
    You will find a large majority on here run induction kits, I personally ran a pipercross viper carbon shielded induction kit. I think it is mainly a case of bad luck that the odd MAF sensor goes down, most likely where they are disturbed during the fitting of the kits, but the ECU's are more than capable of adapting to the change in airflow that you gain. You do get a change in induction noise, but personally I like it.
  3. Devildub_06
    First crack would be simply to check the oil level. Pretty sure the check would be much the same as most other autos, which is with the front wheels chocked and handbrake on, run up the engine, select D and check oil level. Failing that it will have to come apart, and I should think the torque convertor will require a bit of tlc.
  4. Devildub_06
  5. Devildub_06
    It depends whether or not a proper "lowering kit" was installed. When I purchased mine it was lowered 60mm give or take, drove it home from Hemel to Royston approx 25 miles, and my back hurt when I got out. Turns out the springs had been CUT down, and the standard dampers left on were totalled. Make sure this isn't the case with yours. As for recommendations, depends on how deep your pockets are, I personally went for a 40mm drop Spax PSX damping adjustable kit (Springs and matched dampers). According to a few on here a good start is good quality lowering springs and Bilstein shocks.
  6. Devildub_06
    Round my neck of the woods it's an average of £1.10 a litre which as near as makes no difference £5 a gallon
  7. Devildub_06
    Well to be fair my highline was similar, but that was only because I did a lot of stop and start town driving, if it's out on the motorway at cruise, should be getting at least 28. TBH I got 250 to a tank so roughly (in today's market place) approx 115 to 20 Quid.
  8. Devildub_06
    Phew, thought I was going to get beats for what i wrote down lol!! I bow to the master
  9. Devildub_06
    I just threw that out there as a joke lol!! But there are jobs going...
  10. Devildub_06
    No worries at all, glad it wasn't too serious!
  11. Devildub_06
    According to another FI thread, looks like NGK BKR7E, I think the standards are 6's aren't they?
  12. Devildub_06
    No worries at all, i'm glad to help where I can!
  13. Devildub_06
    I wouldn't say easy, but do-able. Can only say my experience is linked to one I changed on a 1.6 mark 3, but can't see them being a lot different. All I will say is be careful!
  14. Devildub_06
    As you're only up the road, make mine a burger lol!
  15. Devildub_06
  16. Devildub_06
    This wouldn't be the car you're sacrificing your VR fuel pump for would it??? And there was me thinking you must have blown it up by now lol!!!
  17. Devildub_06
    What he said...
  18. Devildub_06
    In what way do you "have to move" the steering wheel to get it to start?
  19. Devildub_06
    It would certainly run rich as the ECU would bypass the function. As per quote from C2 on another post OBD1 would raise fuel trim by 25% to keep the engine safe if lambda function had failed. Why would it be wired wrong?
  20. Devildub_06
    Do you mean it's just hanging free? You don't mean removed it altogether?? Looks like you'll be trying to find that internal circlip to compress after all, once done should just tap off the shaft.
  21. Devildub_06
    Oh fair play, and good call about the inner shaft, always helps to have a second person to bounce ideas off!!
  22. Devildub_06
    Sorry, I was answering your PM's, but yes just tap your CV splined shaft through the hub as you pull it away until it's free, then compress the retaining circlip holding the shaft side onto the driveshaft. Should be job job by then.
  23. Devildub_06
    Erm, think i'll stay out of this now before I really do get thrashed lmao.
  24. Devildub_06
    And he drops the ball in 3...2...1...I need to get to secsavers I think! In reading it like that then, the vr against his wifes car will obviously be faster than his wifes car as it can create the power and torque without having to "come on boost" It's the torque that gets you to a speed quicker too, and even stock nasp vr's have bundles of it!!
  25. Devildub_06
    What's your wife's car? And I take i you mean your nasp VR has 40 bhp more than standard??????
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