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VRTrickster

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Everything posted by VRTrickster

  1. VRTrickster
    Im sure Ive heard somewhere that you can use a mk4 copper head gasket on the older 12v's ,am I right ? If so does anyone have the part number please, that would be lovely?
  2. VRTrickster
    Right I brought myself a comp tester today and retested number 5. It measured the same result of 9.5 ! One thing I did notice is when turning the engine whilst testing the engine was making a chirping noise that was quite loud! This noise but quieter also happens when I switch off the ignition after driving. I was just wondering if this could be the sound of air coming back up through the intake ?
  3. VRTrickster
    Yes I can let my dad take it to work, and give it a leakage test. Im just wondering if it would effect things that much? The cylinder compression is within the 7.5 min, but is still 2.5 bar different to the rest.
  4. VRTrickster
    Could be, I think I do need to do the test again just to make sure.
  5. VRTrickster
    No, no smoke from exhaust. I thought if anything it could be the cylinder head, surely not the pistons? MPG pretty good aswell.
  6. VRTrickster
    I did warm the car right up before carrying out the test. The car has done 125,500 but had a new block and pistons about 30,000 ago. The head was stripped and the valves re lapped. The face was also welded and re skimmed. This was carried out before I brought the car but I have all paper work from a main dealer. Maybe I should redo number 5 just to make sure. Would the lower compression in one cylinder cause a noticable difference in engine behaviour?
  7. VRTrickster
    As some of you may know Ive had a few running problems with my vr ,which I think Ive almost got to the bottom of now. Although yesterday I decided to give it a compression test and heres the results. 1)13 bar 3)12 5) 9.5! 2)12.5 4)12 6)12.5 The thing that concerns me is the cylinder 5 ! The rest are very good ,in the Bentley it states 11-13 for a new engine and 7.5 minimum wear limit. Maximum permissable difference between all cylinders is 3 bar. Im I worrying about nothing as apart from the number 5 its got pretty good compression? Please someone put my mind at rest !
  8. VRTrickster
    Well the battery is pretty new and a decent Bosch one. The interior light was left on all night the other day and it started up fine as it does every day. I think most of the problem could be that it needs a proper custom remap to finish the work off!
  9. VRTrickster
    Well the car seems to be running rather well at the minute and idle is acceptable given that Ive fitted high lift cams and lightened flywheel etc. I'm still going to check the fuel pressure and comp test it the weekend, it will then be ready for the stealth remap YES! The car hasn't cut out the last couple of times Ive been out, when it normally would have! The custom remaps really going to tie it all together I think, and I'm hoping for a considerable increase on my standard 204 bhp 189 lb ft.
  10. VRTrickster
    Ive adjusted the throttle pot, but hasn't changed anything! Its not the reason why its cutting out or running rough. I'm probably going to get a fuel pump relay next week anyway as there are cheap, and then get the fuel pressure tested. Would a faulty relay cause it to cut out? On my vag com the injector on time has been showing 3.90-4.10 ,could this mean that if the fuel pressure is insufficient the ECU will increase the fuel rate like what I'm seeing?
  11. VRTrickster
    I have checked the cams after installation to check the marks, and even took the gearbox out to have a proper look! When I fitted the cams I was concerned that I couldnt seem to get the cam slots to line up spot on but tried it tooth this way ,tooth that way so that had to be as good as it gets? After running it for a while it had lumpy idle and problems starting in damp which turned out to be the coil ,and idle was lumpy. After speaking to Vince several times for advice I decided to strip it again even further and take the box out. The lower chain I haven't moved and in standard form on the r
  12. VRTrickster
    I have checked the cams after installation to check the marks and even took the gearbox out to have a proper look! When I fitted the cams I was concerned that I couldnt seem to get the cam marks to line up spot on but tried it tooth this way ,tooth that way so that had to be as good as it gets? After running it for a while it had lumpy idle and problems starting in damp which turned out to be the coil ,and idle was lumpy. After speaking to Vince several times for advice I decided to strip it again even further and take the box out. The lower chain I haven't moved and in standard form on the ro
  13. VRTrickster
    Does you car have any other problems like lumpy idle,cutting out at all?
  14. VRTrickster
    Right Ive sorted the starting problem which was the ISV and have fitted a brand spanker! I thought this would sort all the problems but it hasn't! Ive still got a quite lumpy idle ,slight kangarooing at low revs and the car seems lethargic when accelerating. The car also still cuts out quite a bit! Here's a list of what has been replaced or swapped so far : New Items 264 Cams Cam sender Top timing chain Port match inlet mani Inlet gaskets Injector seals Re pro TB TPS ISV BMC CDA Lambda probe Red Beru leads Spark plugs Blue temp switch 109 ECU relay Cam position sensor Parts swapped with seco
  15. VRTrickster
    Got a new ISV off my dad discounted as he works for Audi for £130 inc. I think he said it was around £200 retail! So I got a bargain, and it cured the problem so Im well chuffed!
  16. VRTrickster
    I think Ive found the problem! After taking the ISV off again to give it another clean I noticed it is actually seized almost shut or open? You can get a screw driver in the top but it doesn't budge at all. Hopefully this is the cause of the problem and then I can start enjoying my new mods and stop complaining about the running! But theres always something else to move onto eh ! How much is it supposed to open?
  17. VRTrickster
    What hoses are you on about? Is it the clear vac hose with the valve? The battery has been disconnected a few times now ,so I dont think its anything to do with the TB resetting etc.
  18. VRTrickster
    Right my rado struggles to stay running when you start it from cold. You have to keep the revs up to keep it running otherwise it just stalls! After its been running a minute or two ,stalling a couple of times it idles but lumpy! Seems to pull fine and has had lots of parts already replaced : (SECOND HAND) COIL PACK MAF ECU INJECTORS (NEW PARTS) OE LEADS PLUGS BLUE TEMP SWITCH CAM POSITION SENDER THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR FUEL FILTER Once the car is running and idling it may cut out occasionally at a junction but the idle seems to drop fairly well. Ive checked that the relays are
  19. VRTrickster
    Right Ive had the Gearbox out and the lower timing marks are spot on ,so it couldn't of slipped a tooth! Could this be because the cams are about a mm out on the aligning tool? This is really starting to wind me right up and my car is now in a 1000 pieces on my Dads drive in till I get to the bottom of the over fuelling! May be it could be injectors? Could it be the way the cams have been machined? Should have done it before had but can I compression test the engine just my turning the bottom pulley ,probably not. I think I might have to stick the old cams back in and see how they time up
  20. VRTrickster
    It will fit but the TB wont! Youll need a obd1 to obd2 adaptor for the mani.
  21. VRTrickster
    Right guys cheers for all the advice! Ive spoken to Vince today and Ive decided Im going to strip here again ,gearbox and all and make sure the timings spot on as the intermediate sprocket may of jumped a tooth when fidling with the chains! Going to flog the un needed stuff on ebay to try and get some money back. Now Im taking the gearbox off Im wondering if I should buy a lightened flywheel ,even though I cant really afford it!
  22. VRTrickster
    Just a quick one. Can a faulty isv cause over fuelling as well as lumpy idle ,kangarooing etc?
  23. VRTrickster
    Should the timing be moving up and down the way it is? Could it just be it needs remapping too set it up to the mods? Vince at Stealth racing did say it should run alright because the cam pro wasnt that wild. Can someone please tell me why I cant carry out basic settings ,is it just because the values arent correct to carry out the procedure? It did have an engine rebuild 30k ,but I dont think the head was fully rebuilt,stems valves etc. The valve train is quite noisey ,I replaced the followers when changing the cams. The valves were apparently re lapped and the seals replaced thats about it.
  24. VRTrickster
    Right Ive know put a second hand ecu on and it seems to be exactly the same as before ,so Im rather p**sed off now after spending another £70! Can a faulty ISV give the same problems? Heres what VAGCOM brought up : RPM 680 - 720 TEMP 89.6 LAMBDA .900 - 1.000 FLUCTUATING TIMING 3 - 6 FLUCTUATING INJ TME 3.80 - 4.00 FLUCTUATING EN LOAD 4.O% THRT ANG 12.5 INT TMP 61.6 Ive inspected for air leaks and I dont think thats the problem. There are no fault codes present.I have now put back in the original FPR and flowed TB. Please stay with me on this one ,I need all the help I can get! Thank
  25. VRTrickster
    No it doesnt and the replacement MAF seemed to make the car pull a lot stronger than it ever did before ,so fingers crossed its the ECU! Otherwise thats more money thrown down the drain! Iwas disconnecting the batt from the pos term often could that of upset the ECU?
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