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adamsimmons

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Everything posted by adamsimmons

  1. If you ever need to get seals again I bought ones for my charger from a company called Simply Bearings in the UK they were able to match up the correct sizes and specs for a next to nothing kit. I replaced all the seals in my vortech v2 charger for about £15 instead of the ridiculous prices that vortech charge. I hope that this is some help.
  2. from what I understand that was the whole point of having a fuel injected engine, to make sure that you always had the correct amount of fuel put into the cylinders, as it is measured by a fair few different computer controlled instruments, where as a carbed engine doesn't have any of these comodities so it wouldn't be as fuel effiecient. But then again a petrol 2.8v6 is never going to be enviromentally friendly.
  3. Can somebody help me on this one. I've been trying to look around everywhere and can't seem to find the best best for the charger. At the mo I have a 6pk1536 but it keeps on slipping, as the previous belt snapped I haven't got anything to go by. My car has no air-con and has a 6psi pulley. Any help would be great as I'm pulling my hair out after spending about £50 on belts, by buying the wrong ones. Thanks for your help in advance.
  4. Hi Ciaran, I have a coilpack you can have, as far as I'm aware it works perfectly. I took it off my car as I thought it was causing a misfire and bought a new one, but it ended being the headgasket. PM me if you are interested. Cheers
  5. Also try checking these which can also affect starting of the engine when it's warm. Electrical connections - engine/battery Fuel pump non-return valve Fuel pressure/delivery rate/fuel pressure regulator Fuses/fuel pump relay/engine control relay/fuel pump Condition of fuel/fuel filter Injectors Ignition system Air filter Air intake system/vacuum system - leaks Evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve Mass air flow (MAF) sensor Barometric pressure (BARO) sensor Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor Engine management system - connections/wiring Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor/camshaf
  6. To make sure that the sensor has gone can you check the resistance across the sensor. The sensor should be white, and you need to measure across pin 1+2 and you should have a resistance between 480-1000 ohms with the plug disconnected, also check pins 1+3 and 2+3 there should be no continuity or open circuit between these pins. If any of these tests show any thing other than specified it will prove that the sensor is faulty. I hope this helps rectify your problem with your vr, I'm sure you will find it soon
  7. I don't think i have seen much over 20 mpg since charging my vr, but prior to that I regularly used to see around 32- 35mpg on m-way and around 22 - 25 mpg around town.
  8. Does anybody know where I can buy a oil return line for this charger, as the one that I had with the kit has broken at the charger end. Cheers for your help in advance
  9. When I bought the car, they guy had replaced the engina as he destroyed the sump on the original one so he had put a replacement engine in, and did the clutch and chains while the engine was out of the car. He had reciepts to prove that it had been done so, not too worried about them. I think he had just done it for piece of mind, as it's easier to do it while the engine is out of the car.
  10. cheers for getting back so quickly, Thank you for the help. Would you recommend anything else to do while the car is off the road, as the engine has only done about 70k, and the chains were replaced just before I bought it, so I don't think it would be worth replacing the chains.
  11. Bore wash is when there is too much fuel ,caused by over fuelling or running rich, in the cylinder and it over comes the lubricant properties of the oil, and causes marking inside the cylinder where the oil can no longer protect the gap between piston and cylinder. I hope that this helps
  12. My car has decided that it would now like to burn water rather than fuel. So have come to the conclusion that I need to replace my head gasket. My car is currently running a vortech v2 superchager at 6psi. I'm never going to run it above 8psi as I think that is enough power to run through the front wheels. Would any body be able to recommend what the best option would be to replace the gasket. Should I get a headspacer to the lower the compression to be safe, or can I just stay with using the standard gasket. What other things would you be able to recommend doing at the same time while the hea
  13. I use mine as a daily driver. It's been very reliable and have had no probs, until my headgasket went on the weekend, but that was due to a very heavy right foot, and giving the car a bit too much abuse than it usually has but otherwise it's fine, other than the fuel bill
  14. I bought some magnecor leads for my VR6 from europerformance. They were 8.5mm and red. They were quite expensive at £110 but I definetly think they are worth the money, and also came within 2 days, even tho that they had to have them special order
  15. Forgot to add Fault codes 00537- Possible causes - CO adjustment, heating or inoperative. Intake/Exhaust Leak. Misfire, fuel level, low fuel pressure or pump. Injectors. Evaporation cannister purge valve. MAF sensor filament burnoff faulty. Wiring or heated oxygen sensor 00515 - Possible causes - Air gap, insecure sensor or rotor. Wring, poor connection. fuse. Dizzy/camshaft alignment. CKP sensor
  16. Hi Mombajomba, I had the same prob with mine not so long ago, with the lumpy idle and stalling after going for a drive. All I did was disconnect the battery and and touch the postive and negative together OFF THE BATTERY, and turn the key in the ignition to position 2, the one when all the lights come on. Just leave it for half and hour and then just reconnect the battery, turning the igntion off, and seems to be fine now. Sorry if I havent explained it very well, if you want me to talk you through it PM and ill give you my moby.
  17. Cheers, I will have a look at them now and see what sort of price I will get.
  18. Where did you get the engine mounts from and how much did they cost? As I contacted Black forest industries and they said that they won't deliver outside the us. With the current exchange rate they are really cheap.
  19. Wade were you in GSF earlier today buying your coilpack
  20. I dont really understand what you mean, but if you mean that you have bought a coilpack for your vr6 when it originally had a dizzy, it won't work as its a different ignition system, as I understand. Can you clarify when your vr6 was made as I think anything that was made in 1991 and early 1992 had a distributor, then after that they had a coilpack.
  21. Do you know why not as the pins are there and as far as I can see all the OBD1 ecu are the same until they changed over to the OBD2. I can see on the wiring diagram for the ecu pin 59 is still there it's just not used. So if I wire the 4 pin exactly the same as that later model, I can't see why it wouldnt work. Could you explain why it won't work and if there is a work around. Cheers again
  22. Ive found out pin 59 on the ecu is for filament burn off, and as I understand that the 4 pin maf does not have a filament so that it doesn't require this. Am I correct?
  23. I have an ODB1 engine with the 6 pin MAF, as i understand these changed over to 4 pin in November 93. I need to change my loom over to the 4 pin connector, I have managed to get hold of the wiring diagram with both maf's on, and it shows that for the 6 pin maf connects to a switch in the engine control relay, and the 4 pin maf connect to a switch in the fuel pump relay. 6 Pin MAF 1. Earth 2. Pin 16 on ECU 3. Pin 17 on ECU 4. Pin 59 on ECU 5. Switch on Engine Control Relay 6. No Connection 4 Pin MAF 1. Earth 2. Pin 16 on ECU 3. Switch on Fuel Pump Relay 4. Pin 17 on ECU To connect the 4 pin maf
  24. That does sound really expensive, I pay £520 with bell and I'm 25 with no claims full comp
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